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What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

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10.5m feltstuter
Made two more molds different core sizes. .out of an old Lee one did not turn out well I prefer brass , still
git tail end of Colvid so not really up to it, but it’s a rainy day , what else is there to do
Plus a few more
 

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today i took the siler off my whatzit .30 flintlock and did some polishing. shot it yesterday and had about even klatch, flash in the pan and shots.
polished the tumbler, in and out, also the axle bearing.
polished the main spring tumbler hook. also took off a 1/128th of the main spring width.
every contact point got polished. even made a pivot screw for the feather/frizzen. the old one had a lot of slop.
the lock sparks much better.
also removed the vent liner ,polished and coned the inside. maybe tomorrow i will shoot it. too tired to clean it tonight.
 
I started Re doing my old muzzle loader. It was never properly put togother. I'm turnishing all the brass. I'm going to finish it in true oil.
 

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The .376 diameter, 265 grain bullets came in.

92 Lead. 6 Antimony. 2 Tin.

A few gentle whacks with a wooden mallet and some olive oil/bee's wax lube persuaded them to go into a .375 smooth bore.

Let's see what Frankenstuffer does now. I'm thinking 50-60 grains of 3F.
 

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LOL!! I think you done just fine with you shooting.

Today, let's see. Been on this forum for the past couple hours. Yall have some great points of interests. Other than that, just doing things at the house that needed done.
 
Finally got around to shooting my new Lyman "GTR" (Great Trade Rifle) ;)

The first two shots were right next to each other at 50yds. And so was the third. But I shot the third after drifting the rear sight, lol.
From then on I was chasing shots. The trigger must have been 12-15lbs. It certainly didn't seem that heavy when I was holding the hammer and pulling the trigger in a sort of dry fire kind of way (without letting the hammer fall on the nipple), but off the bench everything is magnified.

Called it a day and it took all of three patches to clean it after pumping some hot soapy water through it. So a total of five patches were used.
Pulled the lock and it was filled with little shavings that looked like what is left on a piece of paper after erasing something with a No2 Pencil. Some of us might remember those.

So I cleaned the lock out, but haven't taken it apart or messed with it yet. It needs to cool down after I blew it out and dried it with a heat gun.
And I'm cooling down myself 😇
 
KIMG1671.JPG

Made a set of straps to attach my powder horn to my possibles bag.
Hardest part was trying to replicate the buffalo hide out of vegitan.
It ain't perfect but it looks pretty good. I still have to replace these nickel Chicago screws with some hammered antique brass hardware I ordered.
 
Yep. This plunger taking the place of a typical sear spring feels way too gritty.
I'll have to look into that and polish the tunnel, where I think the grittiness is occurring. Then lighten it if needed after that. So of course will polish the trigger bar and plunger interface. Just like working on one of those Austrian guns, lol.
IMG_7815.JPG


But the real culprit is the tumbler o_O
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Nothing like a big burr to keep the sear from moving :doh:
 
Today I confirmed my previous observation that a .54 RB over 100 grains 3F Swiss drops about four feet at 200 yards. I am fond of long range shooting and usually use the Elmer Keith aiming method where the front sight is elevated about the rear. Unfortunately with my Isaac Haines 38" barrel there is not enough of the already tall front blade to accomplish this aiming method. I had to resort to a tang peep sight and the amount of required elevation places the base of the front sight even with the top of the rear.

Long story shortened...Timothy Murphy must have aimed about 6 - 8 feet over his target to get a hit at 300 yards.
 
Working on that lock was a good learning experience.
It was the roughest lock I've ever seen.

Pedersolis might need work in the usual areas; sear spring... tumbler/sear interface... but this Lyman lock needed work where a lot of the parts simply sat and are expected to pivot on a machine screw. Lots of rough casting. Even the hole the fly(?) sits in needed polished so the fly would move without resistance.

I guess I expected better gun wearing the Lyman name.
 
I had a friend notice something I did not the other day. That was the wood around the lock on my Woodsrunner being high (proud) of the lock around part of it. So today I addressed that. I took the lock out and sanded the areas that were high. I did repeated fittings to see where I was with it and finally, got it to where I wanted the wood to be.
Then I put on Aqua Fortis, followed by a heat gun treatment. After that I opened a stubborn to open can of finish and covered the newly made surface areas. The wood came out nicely striped and you can't really tell the difference.
Now the only problem is that the wood by the tang is a little high, too. However, since that entails taking off the barrel, and removing those dang pins, that will wait for a bit.
In the meantime, since I had it off, I took the lock apart to have a finish applied. However, I do not have a punch for the cock, so I ordered one from Kibler today, and will attend to the lock when the punch comes.

The Doc is out now. :cool:
 
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