Guest
I wouldn't fire up my welder either, but the point being was that your sealant is not linseed oil like you said.
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Musketman: Have you actually used the soy oil/turpentine mix? What is your conclusion?
greytop13
36 Cal.
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Please think twice before using linseed or naptha or any combustible!
As I write this, I can hear the hammers of the construction crew rebuilding my garage. It burned to the ground in April because I used linseed oil to treat the wedge tent I made. I used a 50/50 mix of linseed and mineral spirits (found recipe on this board). I let the tent dry for a week outside. It felt dry so I tossed it in my Jeep the night before heading to camp and it spontaneously combusted. Lost the Jeep, almost all my ML gear, my dog (he was sleeping in his kennel) and a lifetime of stuff stored in the garage. Had the garage not been detached, we would have lost the house too.
The fire investigator said it's amazing how many fires start from linseed. He said the linseed creates heat between the layers of cloth and boom. Both the fire and insurance folks agreed that considering it was cut with spirits and had enough time to dry, it shouldn't have happened. The insurance company believes it was a "hot batch" of linseed and is going after the company that made it.
Regardless, that doesn't bring my dog back, my stuff back, or my sense of comfort back. You might do everything right and still have a problem. Honest guys, I'm not trying to trash anyone's ideas but I couldn't keep my mouth shut in this one.
Humbly,
Greytop
As I write this, I can hear the hammers of the construction crew rebuilding my garage. It burned to the ground in April because I used linseed oil to treat the wedge tent I made. I used a 50/50 mix of linseed and mineral spirits (found recipe on this board). I let the tent dry for a week outside. It felt dry so I tossed it in my Jeep the night before heading to camp and it spontaneously combusted. Lost the Jeep, almost all my ML gear, my dog (he was sleeping in his kennel) and a lifetime of stuff stored in the garage. Had the garage not been detached, we would have lost the house too.
The fire investigator said it's amazing how many fires start from linseed. He said the linseed creates heat between the layers of cloth and boom. Both the fire and insurance folks agreed that considering it was cut with spirits and had enough time to dry, it shouldn't have happened. The insurance company believes it was a "hot batch" of linseed and is going after the company that made it.
Regardless, that doesn't bring my dog back, my stuff back, or my sense of comfort back. You might do everything right and still have a problem. Honest guys, I'm not trying to trash anyone's ideas but I couldn't keep my mouth shut in this one.
Humbly,
Greytop
Guest
Sorry to hear about your garage, but glad nobody was hurt. It's common for alot of people to use linseed oil in attempt to be a little period correct. However today's linseed oil isn't even the same anyway. It does contain some flax, but very little. I suppose because of the name on the can it's poised as a natural product and therefore used in our historical time. Boiled linseed oil is a misnomer by the way, oil does not "boil", it's the additives to create a rapid polymerization to how it gets the name boiled. Blown linseed oil is oxidized much the same way. Linseed oil was used as a binder for paints, but hasn't been for several years now since emulsion paints opened the door into fast mfg.
There are natural linseed oil/flax oil, from the seeds you can find it in health food stores of course. It's pretty expensive. Raw linseed oil is still available, but is still flammable so were defeating some purpose by using it still.
The boiled linseed oil most people are using today contains alot of oxides-- manganese, cobalt, naptha, benzene, this is where it gets it dark color. As mentioned before were talking cancer causing. You don't have to eat it, just breath it or absorb it through your skin by handling it enough. Again it's flammable, but who's going to be using flames near the tent? It's probably an uncommon safety thought for someone who doesn't use the tent often, but all it takes is the right spark one time.
Bottom line is, rain is PC! Smoke your fur and hide.
There are natural linseed oil/flax oil, from the seeds you can find it in health food stores of course. It's pretty expensive. Raw linseed oil is still available, but is still flammable so were defeating some purpose by using it still.
The boiled linseed oil most people are using today contains alot of oxides-- manganese, cobalt, naptha, benzene, this is where it gets it dark color. As mentioned before were talking cancer causing. You don't have to eat it, just breath it or absorb it through your skin by handling it enough. Again it's flammable, but who's going to be using flames near the tent? It's probably an uncommon safety thought for someone who doesn't use the tent often, but all it takes is the right spark one time.
Bottom line is, rain is PC! Smoke your fur and hide.
Hey Ghost:
I realize this is an old thread, but here it goes: I've been wrestling with a paint tarp I converted into a leanto. I've applied two gals of Isso waterseeler, but am still getting misting through the weave. obviously, the weave is too loose, but I don't want to give up just yet.
Needless-to-say, economy is paramount, otherwise I'd buy me a good tentsmiths tarp tent. How do you think the Olympic would work on sealing the weave?
Thanks.
I realize this is an old thread, but here it goes: I've been wrestling with a paint tarp I converted into a leanto. I've applied two gals of Isso waterseeler, but am still getting misting through the weave. obviously, the weave is too loose, but I don't want to give up just yet.
Needless-to-say, economy is paramount, otherwise I'd buy me a good tentsmiths tarp tent. How do you think the Olympic would work on sealing the weave?
Thanks.
I realize that smoke is a great conditioner for hides and such; consequently, I've thought about smoking my tarp and letting the smoke particles fill in the weave. has anyone had any experience with this?
Or am I just blowing smoke :haha:
Guest
I watched a whole row of tents burn one night. It was not due to the use of linseed, or parifin in gasoline or Whosits' Tent Spray. It was due to a drunk kicking embers onto someone's tent flap. All of the tents were set up with their ropes interlaced to keep the "group feeling" intact. The fire literally raced down the line in about one minute.
I have seen two other tents burn. Also the result of alcahol induced stupidity.
The average time from light up to fall down is about 30 seconds.
It is not the linseed oil, parifin, gasoline or beeswax that causes the tents to burn, it's the alcahol.
:imo:
I have seen two other tents burn. Also the result of alcahol induced stupidity.
The average time from light up to fall down is about 30 seconds.
It is not the linseed oil, parifin, gasoline or beeswax that causes the tents to burn, it's the alcahol.
:imo:
TNtrapper
40 Cal.
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You reckon this would work on a ground cloth for a bedroll??I went and got some boiled linseed oil and turpentine like Mark Baker done on his. Havent applied it yet...but now I know I didnt get enough after reading Ghosts post.Man....4 gallons huh? Heck all I got is a quart of each..DUH!! :youcrazy:
Guest
Don't use the turpintine. It will rot your fabric!
This is one of those areas where Mark is reporting what he has heard and not what he uses.
Read the instructions on the linseed bottle, cut it with mineral spirits at the recommended rate and expect to allow one month for drying time.
It will "feel" dry after a week, and you can use it then, but it is not fully cured and ready for storage. Linseed oil can be scarey (read this entire thread). I have used it for many years without any problems, but others seem to have had theirs.
The 4 gallons I used was a diferent formula and covered a 12X14 +- wall tent with 2 coats inside and out.
:front:
This is one of those areas where Mark is reporting what he has heard and not what he uses.
Read the instructions on the linseed bottle, cut it with mineral spirits at the recommended rate and expect to allow one month for drying time.
It will "feel" dry after a week, and you can use it then, but it is not fully cured and ready for storage. Linseed oil can be scarey (read this entire thread). I have used it for many years without any problems, but others seem to have had theirs.
The 4 gallons I used was a diferent formula and covered a 12X14 +- wall tent with 2 coats inside and out.
:front:
Guest
It should work fine if you WANT a bedroll cover. I never have seen the use in them myself.
You can roll up and sleep in an 8x8 oilcloth, or use it as a shelter, lean-to cover, windbreak, either one.
Dedicating a piece of oilcloth, 6x7, to only one use goes against my nature.
I like to leave options for multiuse of as many items as possible.
Just my opinion and no ones rule by any means.
:front:
You can roll up and sleep in an 8x8 oilcloth, or use it as a shelter, lean-to cover, windbreak, either one.
Dedicating a piece of oilcloth, 6x7, to only one use goes against my nature.
I like to leave options for multiuse of as many items as possible.
Just my opinion and no ones rule by any means.
:front:
I just finished coating to the under side of my canvas and I am really beginning to feel the change in the material. It's picked up somer weight, but I like the change. The color has also changed from white to smoked buckskin, and this is with the "Clear". If you're not too concerned with colors, I think this should work pretty good on canvas accessories. My only concern is the carconigen element. the label says the treetment is (roughly speeking) Linseed oil, some sort of solvent (Naphtha?) and suspended in this is parafin and urathane resins.
I figure the oil and solvent will eventually evaporate, so I'm not worried about these, but I'm not too sure that I want too much bodily contact with the resins.
I figure the oil and solvent will eventually evaporate, so I'm not worried about these, but I'm not too sure that I want too much bodily contact with the resins.
Guest
Then don't use it on your clothing or bedrolls, and don't walk barefoot on the deck or porch you sprayed with it this spring!
How about your wife and kids? Are they running around barefoot on the proch? How about the grandkids?
My skin touches my oilcloths for 3-5 minutes every two weeks or so. I spend half my life barefoot on the redwood deck out the kitchen door. He!! I just spent an hour out there drinking coffee! I sat out there from dark until bedtime last night watching the lighteningbugs!
Have you installed a warning sign on your deck yet?
If I come down with cancer from the waterproofing it will not be due to use of an oilcloth!
:front:
How about your wife and kids? Are they running around barefoot on the proch? How about the grandkids?
My skin touches my oilcloths for 3-5 minutes every two weeks or so. I spend half my life barefoot on the redwood deck out the kitchen door. He!! I just spent an hour out there drinking coffee! I sat out there from dark until bedtime last night watching the lighteningbugs!
Have you installed a warning sign on your deck yet?
If I come down with cancer from the waterproofing it will not be due to use of an oilcloth!
:front:
Hey Ghost, Are you sure those were lighnin' bugs and not bees that got too much exposure to the "treetment"? :crackup:
Seriously, I'm not too squimish about the mix, I think it's probably the most historically accurate misture for canvas that's commercially available, and am perfectly comfortable sleeping under the canvas, I just don't cotton to the idea of wrapping myself up in the stuff for hours at a time.
I agree with you that the best "bedroll" is an oilcloth that can pull Double-duty, and a few yards of that stuff is not too expensive.
Seriously, I'm not too squimish about the mix, I think it's probably the most historically accurate misture for canvas that's commercially available, and am perfectly comfortable sleeping under the canvas, I just don't cotton to the idea of wrapping myself up in the stuff for hours at a time.
I agree with you that the best "bedroll" is an oilcloth that can pull Double-duty, and a few yards of that stuff is not too expensive.
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What the heck is wrong with you people???? You set up a tarp over your tent and not worry about water proofing.
:blue:
:blue:
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Tarps are PC right?
You make a good point, and a fly over a tent is a also a great insulator, but it's logistically impractical. the regiments barely kept up with all the tents they needed, let alone provide the luxury of rain flys.
Also, the tents of the day didn't need "waterproofing" as the weave of the cloth, the material (linen), and the slope/pitch of the tent provided a natural waterproofing.
What we've been discussing was the contemporary equivilent of 18th century canvas treatment. There is documentation, as well as recipes, for treated canvas, and plenty of people have experiemented with them. The fun is in the pursuit of the process, not so much in the actcual finished product; if my goal was merely the acquisition of waterproof canvas, then I'd just call Tentsmiths and order me a fine tarp tent.
Also, the tents of the day didn't need "waterproofing" as the weave of the cloth, the material (linen), and the slope/pitch of the tent provided a natural waterproofing.
What we've been discussing was the contemporary equivilent of 18th century canvas treatment. There is documentation, as well as recipes, for treated canvas, and plenty of people have experiemented with them. The fun is in the pursuit of the process, not so much in the actcual finished product; if my goal was merely the acquisition of waterproof canvas, then I'd just call Tentsmiths and order me a fine tarp tent.
I normally hate doing back-to-back posts like this, but I had to share this with the list.
I put four gallons of olympic deck seeler on my trp, two gallons on each side. The tarp has been curing in my back yard for about a week now and today it came down in sheets! I mean a REAL GULLY WASHER! This was the heaviest rain we've had in almost two monts and the ground inside the tent was as dry as dry could be (I must say).
I have no doubts this thing will keep me dry and comfortable
at Rendezvous. I think I'll buy the five gallon bucket of it just so I can have it on hand! :redthumb:
One word of warning though, it does turn you canvas brown
I put four gallons of olympic deck seeler on my trp, two gallons on each side. The tarp has been curing in my back yard for about a week now and today it came down in sheets! I mean a REAL GULLY WASHER! This was the heaviest rain we've had in almost two monts and the ground inside the tent was as dry as dry could be (I must say).
I have no doubts this thing will keep me dry and comfortable
at Rendezvous. I think I'll buy the five gallon bucket of it just so I can have it on hand! :redthumb:
One word of warning though, it does turn you canvas brown
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