SOLD Reduced: White oak tavern tankard (with epoxy lining inside)

[Flintlock1640]

This one like the previous is made from a hand-hewn log used as the joists of a subfloor of a house built in 1819. As I go down the log the wood is in better shape so I was able to count the rings not just estimate. This log would have been cut in 1819 or 1818 and counting the rings back the center dates to 1667 when this tree was an acorn. I'm happy I was able to get it a bit bigger and more like a tavern size instead of the first smaller one. I have lined this one in epoxy to make it waterproof and food-safe. Note the cure time on this epoxy is 24 hours but online it says to give it 30 days to make sure it is safe. I will not ship it until it has had at least a few days. $60 plus shipping. Pictures of the inside after epoxy will be added.

 

[64Springer]

They are very nice.

But I have to ask why you're sealing the insides with something.

There have to food safe resins out there somewhere. Pour it in, roll it around, let it seep in, pour it out.

Would prevent cracking from get wet and drying over and over and over again.

 

[Flintlock1640]

They are very nice.

But I have to ask why you're sealing the insides with something.

There have to food safe resins out there somewhere. Pour it in, roll it around, let it seep in, pour it out.

Would prevent cracking from get wet and drying over and over and over again.

I haven't touched the inside because I want to leave it to the buyer to decide what they want to seal it with. There are a variety of products to seal it with and I don't want to use the wrong one if the buyer wanted a different one. I have epoxy to line it with should they choose but it is not cheap so I'd rather wait

 

[Flintlock1640]

They are very nice.

But I have to ask why you're sealing the insides with something.

There have to food safe resins out there somewhere. Pour it in, roll it around, let it seep in, pour it out.

Would prevent cracking from get wet and drying over and over and over again.

I think you're right. I was trying to leave people options but really I think it must come across as lazy and unfinished on my part. I put the first coat of epoxy on tonight. It's mostly the top section. Gotta figure out a way to get to the bottom and be able to spread it evenly

 

[64Springer]

You need something thin. There are products that you mix A and B and pour in.

Just hold the tankard mostly horizontally and rotate it.

The coating will get into every nook and cranny and seal things up.

Then pour out the excess and allow to cure.

 

[Flintlock1640]

You need something thin. There are products that you mix A and B and pour in.

Just hold the tankard mostly horizontally and rotate it.

The coating will get into every nook and cranny and seal things up.

Then pour out the excess and allow to cure.

Thanks,
I'll have to get some for the next time. I'll just have to make what I've got work for now but I really appreciate the input.

 

[Flintlock1640]

You need something thin. There are products that you mix A and B and pour in.

Just hold the tankard mostly horizontally and rotate it.

The coating will get into every nook and cranny and seal things up.

Then pour out the excess and allow to cure.

Just a quick Google search shows that the epoxy and wood both should be heated up before use to reduce viscosity. I'll put it all out in the sun for a while tomorrow before mixing and using it. I'll let you know how it goes

 

[Rifleman1776]

I agree with the OP, leave the inside alone. I have a noggin of unknown wood (looks like cherry) that I used for many years. It is untreated now. But at one time I tried to coat the inside. Hot liquids, like coffee, took it out quickly. With oils adult beverages made them float to the surface. With noting anything drinkable was usable. BTW, as a woodturner myself, that is nice.

 

[Flintlock1640]

I agree with the OP, leave the inside alone. I have a noggin of unknown wood (looks like cherry) that I used for many years. It is untreated now. But at one time I tried to coat the inside. Hot liquids, like coffee, took it out quickly. With oils adult beverages made them float to the surface. With noting anything drinkable was usable. BTW, as a woodturner myself, that is nice.

Thank you I appreciate your feedback. I went ahead and lined the inside in epoxy on this one. I will update pictures once it has had 24 hours to cure. It will probably need longer than that before it is safe to drink from. Going forward I will leave it like I originally intended to have as an option. I can do the epoxy for an additional $5 (since epoxy is not cheap and it does take some time) or you can get it without treatment on the inside so you can use it plain or line it yourself. I sold the previous for $45 pretty quickly and I appreciate everyone's advise on this one. I think I am a bit high for what it is so I will now and in the future have small ones for $45 and large ones for $55 (or $50 and $60 respectively, with the epoxy coat)

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Just a quick Google search shows that the epoxy and wood both should be heated up before use to reduce viscosity ...

NEVER heat epoxy .... that causes it to cure even FASTER! I do a ton of epoxy work on boats, furniture and firearms and none of the top brands I use recommend that.

The best 'cure' - pardon the pun - for an easy flowing epoxy is to use a thin epoxy from the outset. Heating the wood/substrate open the pores and allows it to penetrate deeper. However, let the piece begin to cool before applying the mix or still expanding air bubbles can cause an adverse/ugly 'orange peel' effect ... dots or bubbles all over the piece.

We never epoxy a boat or fancy bar top until the heat of the day has passed, air temps are going down and the wood and/or subtrate(s) is/are beginning to cool.

 

[Flintlock1640]

NEVER heat epoxy .... that causes it to cure even FASTER! I do a ton of epoxy work on boats, furniture and firearms and none of the top brands I use recommend that.

The best 'cure' - pardon the pun - for an easy flowing epoxy is to use a thin epoxy from the outset. Heating the wood/substrate open the pores and allows it to penetrate deeper. However, let the piece begin to cool before applying the mix or still expanding air bubbles can cause an adverse/ugly 'orange peel' effect ... dots or bubbles all over the piece.

We never epoxy a boat or fancy bar top until the heat of the day has passed, air temps are going down and the wood and/or subtrate(s) is/are beginning to cool.

I didn't write that very clearly. It's heated up before it's combined so that it's not causing it to dry quicker

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Haha, yes ... have even seen epoxy fires when people have heated the mix!

 

[windini]

Haha, yes ... have even seen epoxy fires when people have heated the mix!

I hear those'll really stick to your ribs!

@Flintlock1640 , nice work! Have you looked into brewer's pitch to seal it? I believe it'd be contemporary to the design of your tankard, and it can (could?) be had in a black variety (charcoal'd?) that supposedly eliminated any resinous flavor.

Townsend's has the regular variety now; looking up their black brewer's pitch got me a 404 error.

 

[Flintlock1640]

Any interest if I drop this to $50?

 

[Troopertree]

I am intrested in the tankard and bowl but i am out of town so if still available Monday?

 

[Flintlock1640]

I am intrested in the tankard and bowl but i am out of town so if still available Monday?

No rush at all thanks for your interest

 

[Flintlock1640]

Sold pending funds