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used rifle kit

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TeutonicHeathen

36 Cal.
Joined
Nov 8, 2011
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I ran across a gentleman who is selling a used rifle parts set. Some of the work is already done. Im not sure how well it is done. The butt plate is mounted, barrel and lock are inlet and mounted. Here are some pics. I am a new builder this will be my first parts set attempt if I can get the price right.

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Moer info The lock is a Siler; it's not marked.  The barrel is a GreenMountain 50 cal.. not marked. The trigger is an L&R straight slim.  I have 2 dowels for ramrod as well.  Total cost to me on invoice was $575.84.  I have invoice and catalog too.
 
I have never built a flintlock before. Or and parts gun. I just started aquiring my learning materials. I beleive I can get this kit for around a couple hundred dollars. Looks like trigger group needs inlet and alot of other work. Should I jump on this.In my opinion and parts set for this amount of money you cant go wrong. Cheap for just starting out. I just dont want to get in over my head. Thanks all
 
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Maine this is it what YOU were going to build ? Cheap don't mean nothing if it is not what you wanted.

My first question is the bore of the rifle. I can see the barrel is rusted, so the bore may be the same way.
I can't tell you how may "Perfect No Rust" bores I have returned because they had rust in them. And most of the times the guys didn't even swab them, they looked in the bore & said Yep, still see shiny metal.

That does NOT.... mean the bore is not rusted or etched. Once it is rusted, it is basically forever rusted unless you have it rebored..... (And this is not stated to open a discussion of removing etching, rust, lapping bores, or etc.)

Unless you can "Hands On" swab that barrel with a tight lightly oiled patch & see for yourself it is not rusted, you basically have no idea the cond. of the bore.

Then after that comes the questions of WHY he didn't finish it. First of all, it is a Green Mountain barrel, & that means it came unbreeched. So WHO breeched it ? Then is it breeched correctly ?

Is the lock inlet to the proper place for proper Vent Liner installation ? Probably been 25 on here done wrong in the past 10 years, even tho it was stated over & over & over how to do it Correctly.

Is the inletting good on the lock & other parts ?

Does he have a Drawing/blueprint of what he is building, or is he guessing ?

Lots of things to consider.....

Now.... that being said........ if ya can guy it for $ 200. & it is a good Siler lock, well ya got a $100. in the lock & a $100 in the rest of it. If the barrel is good inside, you are home free. Then ya have the Misc. stuff to consider in value too.

I guess it all boils down to how close you & your wallet is. :idunno:

Keith Lisle

PS: It appears, whoever did it may not have planned well, as you are stuck with the LOP unless it is Long...... You install the trigger or at least Be SURE where it is to go before ya put the buttplate on. That way you can adjust the LOP. As it is, all you can do is stay with what it is or make it shorter.

ALLLOTTTT of wood to come off that stock.....
 
If I could get that for a couple hundred dollars I wouldn't hesitate for a second. The stock alone with that curl would cost more than that and add a good lock... The barrel looks heavily corroded on the outside. How's the bore? Even if the bore was currently toast, it could be rebored and you'd still be in really good shape on cost.
 
I'll second that, jump on it--you won't get a better chance to learn at a DECENT price---200 bucks? Siler delivered is 153......Don't even worry about bbl., if its good go with it. If not straight ones are not that much, or bore it....Lots a help here abouts, welcome to the club......Tom
 
I agree with birddog. I cant see the gun in person so I have no idea how good the gun was put together so far. I asked about bore but he didnt want to check. Says he is 80 years old and sold his house so he is really busy. I dont want to mess aroundwith bboron the barrel larger. I've never built a gun. I dont want to buy someone's frankenstein gun of parts that may have not been put together correctly and have it end up discouraging me on building. Think I might have to pass on this one.
 
'PIG IN A POKE' :haha:
You can't handle it?....the barrel re-bore from bobby would be another 125 bucks.....like Keith said tho~ the breachin and flash hole insert etc needs to be verified.
sounds like a good deal if you could just look close at it~
marc n tomtom
 
I picked up a great deal on an unfinished TOW kit this year, about half price.

It has a Rice barrel that sat up long enough for the outside to be rusted like it had been treated with the first coat of LMF browning solution. The inside of the bore was as pristine as one could hope for.

It is my understanding that barrel makers swab their bores with a product like Barricade before they send them out so the chances of the bore on this barrel being bad are slim to none in my opinion.
 
I would agree with some of the others have said, IS THIS WHAT YOU WANT? Your stuck with the existing architecture, barrel length, LOP and lock style. That stuff you really can't change.
IMO, you might be better off to buy a kit.
My 2 cents and no doubt worth every penny!
:v
 
Yeah you run the chance of having some issues, most have been brought up already. More than likely you are going to build more than this one, so it's a cheap learning piece. Price a parts kit at Track of the Wolf or other parts supplier.
 
To all.

Some of us seem to be forgetting that offers to sell or to buy are not permitted on the open forum.

If anyone wants to talk about buying or selling things, use the PT (Private Topic) method of discussing your ideas.
 
for the price...buy it...learn from it...your not going to find the opportunity to find a learning parts set that cheap again. If its not what YOU want...build it anyways and sell it on t he forum. The knowledge youll get from the proceess is far more valuable than the 200 dollars spent. like others said just be sure to verify correct installation of parts that can cause you to build a neat pipe bomb. If its not breached correctly that can be corrected...if the vent is in the wrong position .....that can be corrected as well... dont let t he nay sayers convince you to pass up a great opportunity.
 
Is this your last build, or first build? If it is the latter, buy it cheap and learn so your next one will be better. I have seen folks build their first rifle wonderfully. But very few. Most of us have to build several before we get good at it. Then there is me. I bet I have built 30 of them, and still don't have one without some mistake or other. (Maybe several)
 
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