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Trigger issue

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Chris Myers

32 Cal
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I have a set trigger set up and while putting all together (lock,trigger and lock and hammer) i could not set the trigger. I found it was binding on the inside due to the both triggers being too high and hitting the sear. I filed down the set trigger to work properly and then found the hammer would not set in either position. I filed a 1/32 down on the front trigger and now the hammer will not hold in either position unless the set trigger is set prior to pulling the hammer back. What am i doing wrong? Please help i am thinking i ruined the trigger.
 
Just by guessing, sounds like trigger is too close, try raising with shims, washers, not much, I have seen .005 make a big difference. Really hard to tell without seeing in person.
 
The trigger plate is level with the wood that would raise it some would it not be better to lower the front trigger at the top where it hits the Seer? Im not experienced with thus trigger type im just wondering.
 
The trigger plate is level with the wood that would raise it some would it not be better to lower the front trigger at the top where it hits the Seer? Im not experienced with thus trigger type im just wondering.
That is the way you would do it if your building a rifle from scratch and it is an excellent way to fix the problem your having.
The blade on the top of the front trigger is left soft so filing it with a metal cutting flat file shouldn't be a problem.
 
Not from scratch but a kit that the parts are not 100 % inletted and could be a mix and match. Pecatonica kit. Lancaster percussion
 
Call Pecatonica, believe it or not, some trigger and lock set ups are designed this way. Trigger must be set or the hammer will not engage in half or full cock positions. Call them before modifying.
 
Most modern double set triggers are designed to be double lever double set triggers. By having two trigger levers, the lock can be released using the front trigger lever alone or by using the set trigger that allows the front trigger to release the rear set trigger lever to trip the sear in the lock. If a double lever double set trigger can only release the lock when the triggers are set, then the installation is incorrect. I have several rifles whit a single lever set trigger. That can only be release the sear in the lock when set, in fact if the trigger is unset, then the lock can't be placed in half or full cock as the set spring holds the trigger lever too high, preventing the sear from engaging any of the notches in the tumbler.

Now back to @Chris Myers's issue. As the triggers and lock are now, the rifle can only be put into full cock when the triggers are set. That means the set trigger lever is being held too high. There is a spring putting tension on the rear set trigger that when unset holds the trigger lever high. Often that spring can be adjusted to lower the height of the unset trigger lever. Chris, who made the triggers you are using? Remove the triggers and look at the rear trigger and the spring that is lifting the rear trigger lever. Can that spring tension be adjusted?
 
I cannot tell you the manufacture of the trigger but here are some pics of the trigger looking at both sides and it being set as well. I found that the set trigger still hits the sear when putting in the trigger but as you will see in the set position it does not but will not allow the hammer to be put in a set posisiton in any way. First pic 10 has the set trigger set. 2nd pic 12 is one side of trigger and the 3rd pic 01 is the other side. I really feel i screwed up trying to get this to work. I filed the set down but it still hits. looking at pic 12 you can see the set trigger hits right behind the part that sets it to the front trigger and i cannot take it down any further without compromising it.
 

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Which trigger allows the hammer to release the front or back? I thought the front which the set trigger puts it into a position to release the hammer but seeing a video on a old thread on this site shows the set trigger releases the hammer?
 
The rear trigger needs to set lower when unset. Don’t file any more from the blade! How the spring bears on the rear trigger is the issue. Alter how it sets so the trigger lays lower yet gives good pressure to snap the trigger up when released. Study how it’s working and then proceed. Don’t randomly file but consider the tab on the toe of the spring.
 
Phil Coffins is right.
It's the spring that drives the rear trigger cam being set too tight, try loosening the screw that holds that rear spring down. That should lower the rear cam.
 
I am no where near a knowledgeable person when it comes to triggers. I had a Pecatonica kit and it took me a week even with the kind help from the Pecatonica crew to get my triggers to work. So why am I writing this? Simply to tell you that it will eventually work if you keep trying. The above posters know what they are writing about. The satisfaction when all works is astounding.
 
Here is a picture that shows a double set, single phase ( or blade) trigger and a double set double phase (blade) trigger.
The front trigger on a single phase trigger cannot fire the gun unless the rear trigger is first set. Also, the lock cannot be cocked unless the rear set trigger is first cocked or set. These are popular with target shooters and are the only kind of set trigger that works with a lock that does not have a fly in it.

The Double set, Double phase trigger is the most common type of set trigger.
The front trigger can fire the gun without the rear trigger being set. This type of trigger should allow the lock to be fully cocked without the rear trigger being set. The double set, double phase trigger will only work if the lock has a fly in it.

Set-Trigger.jpg
 
The rear trigger does all the work. Those are Davis triggers. Drill and tap a hole(6x32 thread will work) under the high point of the mainspring. Don't mess with the mainspring holding screw. Use a 6x32 screw in it to lower the rear trigger bar by slightly raising the mainspring with the screw. This will allow enough slack in the rear bar to lower the bar but still throw the rear trigger bar into the sear bar(the lock needs a fly for this to work) with enough pressure to release the sear. Adjusted properly it will also let you cock the rifle without setting the triggers. The front trigger spring probably doesn't have enough tension to hold the sear off.
Triggers are made high for people to fit to their particiular rifle. There is no standard fit.
When you are done filing, polish the tops of the bars and the sear bar to reduce friction in the contact area. It doesn't matter so much for a set trigger, but it will help a single trigger. Polishing the sear nose while maintaining the engagement angle will also help reduce the release pressure.
If you screw it up beyond repair, a new set is about $50. Have at it. Learn something.
 
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EC121,, Absolutely! That's the fix.
CVA had a trigger with that screw already installed, and several other available triggers "used to" have it installed,, I wonder why that changed?
 
I have a Davis that still has the screw. It is one of the slanted back trigger types.
The screw doesn't show in Track's pictures. Maybe I got a return. ;)
 
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