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jdw276

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Ok, not a gunsmith, not a gun builder (did a traditions on my lap 35 yrs ago).

Have several cva's with double set triggers. Bought a wheeler trigger pull gauge to check the pull weight and adjust so they are the same. However, how do I increase the pull weight? They are currently at about 2 lbs with a very hard pull on the set trigger.

I have turned screws in and out, in the stock and out if the stock, but they seem to only get more lite pull down to one lb. How do I increase them to 3-4 lbs? Searched on here. Tried a couple of noted tricks but do not seem to work.

Thoughts? And thanks in advance.

John
 

necchi

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I'm sure Zonie will come along,, but that screw doesn't adjust the pull weight.
It adjusts the amount of travel the front trigger makes before it skips the rear trigger sear.

There is another adjustment on the CVA locks that affect the way the trigger works.
This is the unbridled spanish import lock.



See that screw in the tumbler? Even the bridled lock has that. It adjusts how much the sear engages the tumbler notch.
That screw adjustment has a huge effect on how much pull weight you feel when using the front trigger alone or with a single trigger, but no effect (beyond the safety factor of being too light) with a double trigger when using it set.
 

ohio ramrod

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Two simple ways of increasing trigger pull. 1.Heavier sear spring. 2 Change the angle of the tumbler/sear contact. The more acute the angle the heavier the pull since you will actually be "fighting" the main spring. :hmm:
 

Zonie

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Changing the angle of the tumbler/sear contact will change the trigger pull for the front trigger only if the rear trigger is left unset.

It won't effect the force needed to pull the front trigger when the rear trigger is set.

I DO NOT recommend messing with the sear/tumbler notch in any way. It is too easy to frinkle things up and make the gun dangerous or unshootable.

As for changing the load needed to trip the set lock, there isn't much that can be done except to either leave the rear trigger unset, or learn to live with a light trigger pull on the front trigger.
 

jerrywh

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If you are going to fool with the tumbler notches you either need some very good magnification or superman eyes. You also need a complete understanding of the geometry needed for proper function. The geometries can very some but not very much. When I make a lock I do the tumbler notches under a microscope. The sear nose needs to match the tumbler notch angle and both need to be square with the lock plate. It is near impossible to do this first try. Also the more filing that takes place on the two the closer the hammer will get to the frizzen when in half cock. soon there is no distance for the flint at half cock on some locks. This operation is not a good learning project. Very few commercial locks need adjusting of this nature.
 

jdw276

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To all the insights, thank you. What you are all describing to me is not something I want to tackle at this time. Turning a screw, carving out some wood ok. But don't want to create am unsafe gun and not really know it until something bad happens.

Thank you for the education and I think I will just keep turning screws and shootin. I can dryball with the best of ya so why mess up a good gun and not be able to do that easily!
 

jdw276

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Question 2:
What do you all like your trigger pull to be? As I said mine seem to be 2 lbs, tip c at friendship sets all his at three lbs and he is a target shooter. I like to shoot, no competitions. This is one reason wanted a little tougher pull. Two to lite? 4 good for hunting, in between good range setting?

Kinda inforrmal poll.
 

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