• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Traditions Kentucky Build

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jan 22, 2024
Messages
5
Reaction score
12
Location
GA
First muzzy build. Bought this traditions kit a few years ago before I got the flintlock itch and never finished it. Got the itch bad recently and wanted to learn using the kit I never finished. Fortunately when I got back too it, it was pretty much “in the white” just needed to sand and such.

Sanding process was relatively straightforward. Lots of meat to take off of the buttstock and had to work the barrel inlets pretty good. Aside from that nothing significant. Used an orbital (I know blasphemy) I won’t do it again, I only learn lessons hard as it seems.

After sand went with some Jax black bronze darkener on all brass pieces. Great product, pure magic and fast acting. Used it after polishing, gave my brass a more deep hue that was appreciated with some 0000 steel wool.

This is where I messed up, I got too far ahead of myself and drilled and pinned the barrel after the sand, versus after stain. Unfortunately I also used the wrong size drill bit as I found it was very difficult to punch in my pins. But they are secure that’s certain.

With that in mind I have not yet decided what I’m going to do with the barrel, honestly I like the color as is. Maybe someday down the road I’ll give it a French grey with some Jax but the raw look is appealing to my eyes with the current stain.

For stain I went with Kiblers aquafortis (wanted practice before I do a woods runner). That’s some magical stuff right there, beautiful color change right before one’s eyes.


IMG_8668.jpeg

I really like led the Rhodesian color (I have a ridgeback and his cost is on par with the birch wood post aquafortis and heat gun application. (traditions stock? Unconfirmed)

I did this three times to get it as even as possible and then went with tru oil afterwards. Really enjoyed seeing the stock come alive! From there it was rub back and reapply until I hit about 7 coats.

IMG_8669.jpeg

I put it together and got it all fitted and it seems to be about right. Learned a lot from the process and really enjoyed it. I have a Woodsrunner in the closet I can’t wait to get too next!

If you made it this far I applaud your attention and patience. The only major issue I am still currently having is a loose brass stock connection piece as the traditions fittings are not quite flush. Below is a picture of my gap and issue. I ordered a thicker piece of brass and plan to scribe saw a replacement out. I think this will solve my issue, any other recommendations are welcome and encouraged.

IMG_8675.jpeg


Happy building and keep your powder dry!
 
Next time, 1) put the tang bolt in through the tang so the barrel is secured to the butt half; 2) put the fore on the barrel tight to the spacer and butt and secure with painter's tape; 3) THEN drill your barrel pins. ;)

The colors look good. If you want a gray barrel, sand it down with 400 grit to remove the milling marks, and apply naval jelly. It will leave the steel a nice gray.

I never used the factory pins. 1/16" drill bits, steel wire. More room to be slightly off on the alignment, too.
 
Last edited:
Next time, 1) put the tang bolt in through the tang so the barrel is secured to the butt half; 2) put the fore on the barrel tight to the spacer and butt and secure with painter's tape; 3) THEN drill your barrel pins. ;)

The colors look good. If you want a gray barrel, sand it down with 400 grit to remove the milling marks, and apply naval jelly. It will leave the steel a nice gray.

I never used the factory pins. 1/16" drill bits, steel wire. More room to be slightly off on the alignment, too.

That’s some solid advice, if I get another traditions kit I will definitely not use the factory pins.

Unfortunately the offset in the forestock is due to the fore end cap being drilled from the forestock to the barrel. This was the crux of issue as those pieces could not be adjusted.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top