Traditional gun stock finish

[ike]

I was given a traditional gun finish by a gentleman at Brownells. My supply is running out and I cannot find the original recipe. I believe it was 1:1:1 equal parts beeswax. gum spirits turpentine, boiled linseed oil. I am looking for someone who can verify this formula or give me the correct recipe. Thanks for the help. Ike

 

[Flintandsteel]

Not sure what you’re calling traditional. Certainly not colonial period.
Early gunsmiths used varnish. Proven over and over.
Linseed oil is NOT a finish. It is an oil. No beeswax, or turpentine is going to make it dry into a finish.

 

[AZbpBurner]

Not sure what you’re calling traditional. Certainly not colonial period.
Early gunsmiths used varnish. Proven over and over.
Linseed oil is NOT a finish. It is an oil. No beeswax, or turpentine is going to make it dry into a finish.

Linseed and most nut & seed oils react with oxygen to polymerize into a varnish. Gum spirits will lower the viscosity of oils so they will absorb into the wood surface.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Linseed and most nut & seed oils react with oxygen to polymerize into a varnish. Gum spirits will lower the viscosity of oils so they will absorb into the wood surface.

Uh-Oh! We got a controversy going. Need some more experts to chime in here, I can't answer the original question with any authority. I'm interested in learning the answer.

 

[Scota@4570]

I was given a traditional gun finish by a gentleman at Brownells. My supply is running out and I cannot find the original recipe. I believe it was 1:1:1 equal parts beeswax. gum spirits turpentine, boiled linseed oil. I am looking for someone who can verify this formula or give me the correct recipe. Thanks for the help. Ike

What you are describing is called "slackum". It not a finish, it is used to spit shine military stocks that were originally dipped in hot linseed.

 

[SlidePicker]

That formula has long been listed as a "traditional" furniture finish. Way back in my school days I built a walnut and maple chess (or checkers) board and I was dead set on using that formula. It gave a lovely color to the wood. I had to apply it warm, or the wax would solidify out. Perhaps I may have applied it a little too heavily, attempting to get it glossy, but it tended to be gummy and took a very long time to dry. I ended up rubbing it down with Johnson's Paste Wax and was happy with it in the long run. It wouldn't be a very durable surface on something that gets handled a lot.

 

[brownac1983]

Lin

Not sure what you’re calling traditional. Certainly not colonial period.
Early gunsmiths used varnish. Proven over and over.
Linseed oil is NOT a finish. It is an oil. No beeswax, or turpentine is going to make it dry into a finish.

Linseed oil will definitely turn into a finish. It polymerizes over time, the boiled kind does it a lot faster. I have a can that I've been using for years, and I can peel a piece of polymerized oil off the top, it has the feel of hard rubber.

 

[Artificer]

Not sure what you’re calling traditional. Certainly not colonial period.
Early gunsmiths used varnish. Proven over and over.
Linseed oil is NOT a finish. It is an oil. No beeswax, or turpentine is going to make it dry into a finish.

While I agree the preferred finish was an Oil Varnish in the period, it certainly was not the only finish.

Please see the 18th century documentation I supplied in the following link:

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/the-rifle-shoppe-short-land-bess-kit.110725/#post-1503428
Gus

 

[SlidePicker]

This may be a little off topic, but in Artificer's link I read about the use of colored varnishes on Brown Besses. At Bright Steel to Brown: British Musket Barrels, 1757-1865 there is this from the British Army 1811 (revised 1816) instructions on browning barrels, after final immersion in boiling water with some alkaline material added to neutralize the acids in the browning solution:

The Barrel when taken from the Water must, after being perfectly dry, be rubbed smooth with a burnisher of hard wood, and then heated to about the temperature of boiling water; it then will be ready to receive a varnish made of the following materials;​

Spirits of Wine 1 Quart [ethyl alcohol]
Dragon's Blood powder 3 Drams [bright red resin used in varnish]
Shellac bruised 1 Ounce​

and after the varnish is perfectly dry upon the Barrel it must be rubbed with the burnisher to give it a smooth and glossy appearance.​

I'm curious as to whether this dark shellac and dragon's blood "varnish" was also used on stocks? It seems to me it would make a good looking finish. A little searching will turn up pictures of very pretty orange to red maple violins that have been finished with "varnish" containing dragon's blood. Dragon's blood is quite insoluble in oil, so that would have to be a spirit varnish, likely shellac. I like reddish stained wood, and am thinking about trying this.

 

[Artificer]

I was given a traditional gun finish by a gentleman at Brownells. My supply is running out and I cannot find the original recipe. I believe it was 1:1:1 equal parts beeswax. gum spirits turpentine, boiled linseed oil. I am looking for someone who can verify this formula or give me the correct recipe. Thanks for the help. Ike

Hi Ike,

I've not only used it a little, I've made it and even sold some years ago, though I no longer sell it.

It is indeed a ratio of 1:1:1 BY VOLUME of bees wax, REAL turpentine (not Turpenol or other turpentine replacement products) and boiled linseed oil or BLO from here on out. By volume means you use teaspoons or tablespoons or small measuring cups, depending on how much you want to make.

One key to the mixture is the quality of the BLO. "Kettle Boiled" BLO is the best commercially available BLO and is still being made and this is THE BEST BLO to use:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-.../2-oz-lin-speed--sku543100002-8004-20286.aspx
A tablespoon of each component is MORE than enough for a Long Rifle Stock. Actually a teaspoon of each will usually do it.

I learned to first measure the turpentine and put it in the container first. Then the measure of BLO and finally the melted bees wax. Instead of using a double boiler, I heat my bees wax in a Pyrodex Glass measuring cup in the microwave, then pour it into the measure and finally into the container. Once all three components are in a container, stir it with piece of scrap wood or cut off ramrod to mix. I advise stirring it until it solidifies a little bit into a heavy cream, normally only a few minutes.

OK, it is going to smell of turpentine and look like something that came out of an old bull's male member. Don't worry, the turpentine smell will go away in a week or two, once you have used it.

If you have ever used a shoe shine rag with polish, this is the technique to apply it, though you want a very thin coat and hand buff it out after rubbing it hard into the wood.

I don't use it on gun stocks anymore, but I use it on my original and repro wooden hand tools.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

Our own Eric Kettenburg published this EXCELLENT article on original finishes.

https://www.muzzleblasts.com/Library.MBO/V5N2.MBO/Articles.V5N2.MBO/A1.V5N2.MBO.shtml
Gus

 

[SlidePicker]

Our own Eric Kettenburg published this EXCELLENT article on original finishes.

https://www.muzzleblasts.com/Library.MBO/V5N2.MBO/Articles.V5N2.MBO/A1.V5N2.MBO.shtml
Gus

Well, there it is. Common violin varnish. I have dark seedlac and dark red button shellac. Thanks!

 

[Artificer]

Well, there it is. Common violin varnish. I have dark seedlac and dark red button shellac. Thanks!

You are most welcome.

Gus

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Not sure what you’re calling traditional. Certainly not colonial period.
Early gunsmiths used varnish. Proven over and over.
Linseed oil is NOT a finish. It is an oil. No beeswax, or turpentine is going to make it dry into a finish.

By thinning the BLO with turp it helps it dry!

 

[Erzulis boat]

I was given a traditional gun finish by a gentleman at Brownells. My supply is running out and I cannot find the original recipe. I believe it was 1:1:1 equal parts beeswax. gum spirits turpentine, boiled linseed oil. I am looking for someone who can verify this formula or give me the correct recipe. Thanks for the help. Ike

I recall that your supply ran out over 2 years ago.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

If yer set on linseed use Artists Refined Linseed. It is absorbed better and dries quicker..

 

[Snake Pleskin]

I am not sure I understand all the issues here? People have been using BLO in various forms for zillions of years to finish gunstocks. It works fine, is easy to come by, easy to use, easy to touch up. What is the big deal? Personally I have used True Oil, BLO combos and also Laurel Mountain Permalyn, which works very well! They all work fine if you take your time & follow directions. Personally, I do not want to use any kind of finish that requires Merlin the magician to make, could destroy my house or neighborhood if I make a mistake brewing it, won't store well, and is a pita to use, apply or touch up etc.I guess I am just getting old, but it seems we are making this much harder then it needs to be. In the end, no one is going to care what gun stock finish I used. IMHO

 

[John Spartan]

I am not sure I understand all the issues here? People have been using BLO in various forms for zillions of years to finish gunstocks. It works fine, is easy to come by, easy to use, easy to touch up. What is the big deal? Personally I have used True Oil, BLO combos and also Laurel Mountain Permalyn, which works very well! They all work fine if you take your time & follow directions. Personally, I do not want to use any kind of finish that requires Merlin the magician to make, could destroy my house or neighborhood if I make a mistake brewing it, won't store well, and is a pita to use, apply or touch up etc.I guess I am just getting old, but it seems we are making this much harder then it needs to be. In the end, no one is going to care what gun stock finish I used. IMHO

Agreed!

 

[Scota@4570]

Add japan dryer to BLO and dilute with mineral spirits or turpentine. On walnut fill the grain with sanding slurry.

I have finished hundreds of stocks with most every remotely appropriate product. For a maple stocks I settled on hardware store spar varnish diluted with turpentine and a dollop of japan dryer. I apply it very thin with a piece of ladies stocking material (no lint). I knock of any buggars with burgundy scotch brite between coats. It takes about half a dozen coats, one per day.

I admire the research on old original finishes. I think as an academic exercise it is worthwhile. IN the end though, the product that is achieved is no better than what I described above. The secret about finishing stocks is that there is no magic product. The result achieved it 98% about the person dong the work and their experience.

As for pure BLO rubbed in to the wood, I am not a fan. I have done it a bunch too. It takes forever to dry. Porous woods, like walnut, will darken excessively. I messed up a very expensive piece of English walnut this way. I have obsessive standards about my stock work, so I do not mess with BLO any more. If a guy wants to use it, I have no objection. However, it is good to understand it's limitations.

 

[John Spartan]

Add japan dryer to BLO and dilute with mineral spirits or turpentine. On walnut fill the grain with sanding slurry.

I have finished hundreds of stocks with most every remotely appropriate product. For a maple stocks I settled on hardware store spar varnish diluted with turpentine and a dollop of japan dryer. I apply it very thin with a piece of ladies stocking material (no lint). I knock of any buggars with burgundy scotch brite between coats. It takes about half a dozen coats, one per day.

I admire the research on old original finishes. I think as an academic exercise it is worthwhile. IN the end though, the product that is achieved is no better than what I described above. The secret about finishing stocks is that there is no magic product. The result achieved it 98% about the person dong the work and their experience.

As for pure BLO rubbed in to the wood, I am not a fan. I have done it a bunch too. It takes forever to dry. Porous woods, like walnut, will darken excessively. I messed up a very expensive piece of English walnut this way. I have obsessive standards about my stock work, so I do not mess with BLO any more. If a guy wants to use it, I have no objection. However, it is good to understand it's limitations.

“Sanding slurry”??