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Traditional gun stock finish

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Any particular brand of Tung Oil? Where do you usually find it?
I would say he uses pure tung oil not minwax tung oil finish. I googled pure tung oil and it is on amazon called Hopes 100% pure tung oil. 32 ounces for $30 a real good deal. I like the concoction I made lol but I might get this oil
 
I've head this rumor many years ago, that the Stradivarius stringed instruments were very well made, and so were many others, but that his varnish was something special and helped give his instruments their great sounding qualities, for the time period when they were made. I wonder how far back the use of copal resin goes?

LD
I'll try say hello at the Brandywine event! Loyalists should not be hard to find!
 
Not sure what you’re calling traditional. Certainly not colonial period.
Early gunsmiths used varnish. Proven over and over.
Linseed oil is NOT a finish. It is an oil. No beeswax, or turpentine is going to make it dry into a finish.
Yes, varnish was always used on quality guns. Oil finish was for muskets and cheap guns.
 
Our own Eric Kettenburg published this EXCELLENT article on original finishes.

https://www.muzzleblasts.com/Library.MBO/V5N2.MBO/Articles.V5N2.MBO/A1.V5N2.MBO.shtml
Gus
The Kettenburg article mentions violin varnish and gives several examples. I must note that the typical oil varnish used by luthiers is a cooked linseed or walnut oil varnish with a resin (usually pine resin) and is very tough and wear resistant. Spirit varnishes are commonly used for touch-up as shellac varnishes will adhere to almost any other type of finish.
You might be well advised to investigate a real violin varnish, 200 ml isn't that expensive and it is water resistant, though it tends to remain on the surface.
As for me, I will remain in the camp of oil varnishes. A cobalt catalized walnut varnish should work well and be less toxic than on catylized with lead carbonate.
 
As for me, I will remain in the camp of oil varnishes. A cobalt catalized walnut varnish should work well and be less toxic than on catylized with lead carbonate.
Hi Oldbear,

My primary purpose for posting EK's article was to point out the difference between BLO in the period and today, as well as noting the various types of oil varnishes available in the period. I have not used any of the Oil Varnishes in EK's article, though.

I am intrigued by the oil varnish you mentioned. Is there a brand name for it one might purchase or is it something one has to make for oneself?

Gus
 
Our own Eric Kettenburg published this EXCELLENT article on original finishes.

https://www.muzzleblasts.com/Library.MBO/V5N2.MBO/Articles.V5N2.MBO/A1.V5N2.MBO.shtml
Gus

I had not researched luthier supplies in a few years and I find that the "luthier" market has now been dominated by guitar materials.
You can try these:
Tried & True Original Wood Finish - StewMac
Varnish Supplies
Varnish & Supplies | Bosco Violin Supply
Violin Making Supplies and Materials

This is also a great place to look for very fine woodworking tools as luthiers tend to have some of the best tools available.
I should point out that I heard many discussions about the process of making cooked oil varnishes. The process is quite odorous and very dangerous. It is worth your while to purchase a well made product from a reputable supplier. Dissolving a resin in ethanol on the other hand is simple and easy. Shellac bonds well to other finishes and is removeable, which is why it is widely used for touching up very valuable musical instruments and furniture. A shellac finish also tends to have a pleasant "hand", though I also love the feel of a good oil finish on my tools.
 
Here's how I do it: 50/50 tung oil and turpentine to which you add oil based stain to taste. This is a very thin mix. First wipe the mix onto the stock and leave it for 24/48 hrs in a dry place. Now,sand it with 400 grit, yes, the paper will clog up, just keep om using new pieces. When you reckon there is no point in sanding any longer switch to 600 grit. Now with a bowl of the mix and your 600 grit cut into 1 to 2 inch squares start rubbing/sanding it into the stock. Keep rubbing it on a small area until it starts to go stiff, then WIPE it off, don't polish, just wipe it.Repeat until you have done the whole stock and put it to dry again. Repeat the above using finer grits, 800 to 1000 until you run out of patience or achieve the finish you want. The amount of elbow grease polishing you apply will determine the finish, from low luster to high shine. Gleam rather than shine is my choice.
 
The Spanish, British and French ordnance departments did varnish their military arms. I’ve discussed the varnish with a few knowledgeable sources, it was very thin almost like the varnish used on artwork today. Checkering oil used by Dembart is also very similar.

Some early varnishes used Venice turpentine
 
Any particular brand of Tung Oil? Where do you usually find it?

If i use Tung Oil it has to be thinned with Japan solvent and applied after sanding at 180 grit, you then work your way up to 320 with successive coats and less thinner. Tung Oil finishes in a Matte texture, and will not be glossy or satin, maybe semi satin. Tung Oil Varnishes such are not the same.
 
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