Least you don't notice I edited my post, look at it again.
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TIPS ON BENDING A HAMMER
- Thread starter lonewolf5347
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Thanks 'zonie for the edit and the info. My impulse was to try the Dremel, but I was looking at the nipple as the cheapest and easiest to replace if my enthusiasm outstripped my common sense. From what I can tell looking at mine, it will probably take only a few thousandths to make a difference. The caps always fire on a second try, so it isn't hanging by much.
Maybe I missed a point here, but if the weapon was bought from a dealer and is under 1 year old, why not return it to Lyman?
From my perspective, the inletting on the lock has it positioned too far to the rear. I am sure Lyman would correct it.
From my perspective, the inletting on the lock has it positioned too far to the rear. I am sure Lyman would correct it.
The cut out in the lock to allow clearance for the bolster shows that the lock is positioned as far forward as it can be. If it was my rifle I'd return it to the dealer/Lyman and let them correct the problem or give you a new rifle. It's obviously a defect.
lonewolf5347
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Yes I can return it to lyman ,but first I will shoot it as soon as the weather breaks.The gun itself was a super deal seems the guy who bought it never fired it,then decided to go with an inline.
I can't find anything else wrong with the gun except for the nipple,the only thing I found was it is a little to heavy,really has that traditional look.
I can't find anything else wrong with the gun except for the nipple,the only thing I found was it is a little to heavy,really has that traditional look.
quote:Quoten Kevin:
From my perspective, the inletting on the lock has it positioned too far to the rear. Wal, maybe my ole eyes are a playin a trick on me but whan ah was a lookin at picture #2 it showed a gap of about 1/32 inch between the lockplate and the bolster on the forward side. Ta get it ta do this, the lock plate has to be forward. Iffen it's forward, than the hammer is also forward. Iffen the hammer is still too far back to clear the nipple it's a tellin me that either the tumbler hole was drilled too far aft or the hammer is too short from its pivot axis to the inside of the hammers nose. Both o these are Mfg errors but each o ye needs ta decide if'n ye wants ta deal with the factory or jus fix the thing an get on with life (an shootin).
It's kinda obvious the Italians are a skimpen a mite on thar quality an ah'm sorry ta see it. Specially whan theyr asken such big bucks fer the thing, but iffen ye get another one who's ta say it won't have somethin else screwed up?
Iffen ye read my post ye all know what ah'd do.
Oh, iffen Mr Pedersoli is a readin this he should know ah may be rethinken the ider of buyin one o these even iffen they are a nice lookin gun.
From my perspective, the inletting on the lock has it positioned too far to the rear. Wal, maybe my ole eyes are a playin a trick on me but whan ah was a lookin at picture #2 it showed a gap of about 1/32 inch between the lockplate and the bolster on the forward side. Ta get it ta do this, the lock plate has to be forward. Iffen it's forward, than the hammer is also forward. Iffen the hammer is still too far back to clear the nipple it's a tellin me that either the tumbler hole was drilled too far aft or the hammer is too short from its pivot axis to the inside of the hammers nose. Both o these are Mfg errors but each o ye needs ta decide if'n ye wants ta deal with the factory or jus fix the thing an get on with life (an shootin).
It's kinda obvious the Italians are a skimpen a mite on thar quality an ah'm sorry ta see it. Specially whan theyr asken such big bucks fer the thing, but iffen ye get another one who's ta say it won't have somethin else screwed up?
Iffen ye read my post ye all know what ah'd do.
Oh, iffen Mr Pedersoli is a readin this he should know ah may be rethinken the ider of buyin one o these even iffen they are a nice lookin gun.
quote:Originally posted by 'zonie:
Oh, iffen Mr Pedersoli is a readin this he should know ah may be rethinken the ider of buyin one o these even iffen they are a nice lookin gun. The Lyman rifles are actually made by Investarm. I am not sure if they are affiliated with Pedersoli in any way, but they sure make a pretty shotgun. Investarm Funny that their page does not mention that they make BP rifles.
Aside from a couple minor issues with my kit, which Lyman promptly fixed, I have been pleased with the product. At $255 for a flint kit, I sure couldn't complain about the price.
Oh, iffen Mr Pedersoli is a readin this he should know ah may be rethinken the ider of buyin one o these even iffen they are a nice lookin gun. The Lyman rifles are actually made by Investarm. I am not sure if they are affiliated with Pedersoli in any way, but they sure make a pretty shotgun. Investarm Funny that their page does not mention that they make BP rifles.
Aside from a couple minor issues with my kit, which Lyman promptly fixed, I have been pleased with the product. At $255 for a flint kit, I sure couldn't complain about the price.
Guest
The "snail notch" is wrong, look'it the "gap" 'tween the snail and wood, which indicates thet the barrel should be back even more then it is for everthin to "line-up",.. but the "snail notch" is too far forward and prevent'n correct alianment!! (is ther a simular "gap" at the end of the barrel "tang"???)
I'd send it back, or at least have the lock replaced! (You know anybuddy thet you can borrow a GPR "lock" from, to compare with yore's??)
I never thot I'd see such'a "thing" concern'n Lyman/Investarms's quality control (I've owned more'n 20 of ther GPRs over the years)!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here's anuther "thot",... if you have a set of calipers, measure the distance from the forward corner of the "snail notch" to the forward corner on the lockplate,.... I'd be innerested to know how this measurement compares to an old Investarm's lock.
Sumpthin diffinitly ain't "right"!!
I'd send it back, or at least have the lock replaced! (You know anybuddy thet you can borrow a GPR "lock" from, to compare with yore's??)
I never thot I'd see such'a "thing" concern'n Lyman/Investarms's quality control (I've owned more'n 20 of ther GPRs over the years)!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here's anuther "thot",... if you have a set of calipers, measure the distance from the forward corner of the "snail notch" to the forward corner on the lockplate,.... I'd be innerested to know how this measurement compares to an old Investarm's lock.
Sumpthin diffinitly ain't "right"!!
lonewolf5347
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Here is a question maybe someone can ans.?That may solve the problem
The gun was bought new left the factory as a GPR in 54 cal.1 in 60 twist,he also purchase a 50 cal. barrel hunter 1 in 32 twist.
I myself wanter the 50 cal.so he drop the 50 cal. barrel into the stock (which are interchangeable),but did not change the rear tang.
I am trying to contact the gentleman that bought the 54 cal. barrel and see if we can swap the rear tangs Are they that much difference seems both guns have the same outside diameter?
The gun was bought new left the factory as a GPR in 54 cal.1 in 60 twist,he also purchase a 50 cal. barrel hunter 1 in 32 twist.
I myself wanter the 50 cal.so he drop the 50 cal. barrel into the stock (which are interchangeable),but did not change the rear tang.
I am trying to contact the gentleman that bought the 54 cal. barrel and see if we can swap the rear tangs Are they that much difference seems both guns have the same outside diameter?
quote:Originally posted by lonewolf5347:
Are they that much difference seems both guns have the same outside diameter? If they didn't, they would not fit into the stock or be too sloppy in the stock, depending on which is the larger...
If it has a hooked breech, the hooks on the end of the barrels may be cut at different lengths, allowing for the misalignment.
Are they that much difference seems both guns have the same outside diameter? If they didn't, they would not fit into the stock or be too sloppy in the stock, depending on which is the larger...
If it has a hooked breech, the hooks on the end of the barrels may be cut at different lengths, allowing for the misalignment.
lonewolf5347
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I just got in contact with the gentleman who has the other rear tang ,we both will exchage them and see if anyting changes
thank guys
thank guys
If the barrels are different diameters, the tang faces will probably be different...example:
TC's 15/16" .45/.50cal barrel/breech use a corresponding size tang...different one for the 1" .54/.58cal barrels
Note: the tang arm that lays in the mortice are about the same, but the tang faces that butt against the breech plugs are different sizes
TC's 15/16" .45/.50cal barrel/breech use a corresponding size tang...different one for the 1" .54/.58cal barrels
Note: the tang arm that lays in the mortice are about the same, but the tang faces that butt against the breech plugs are different sizes
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This brings up an obvious question for me:
I'm a lot more comfortable doing stock work that messing with metal, so is there any problem with me setting the tang back a few thousands, thereby fixing the problem once and for all without bending or grinding hammers or nipples?
I'm a lot more comfortable doing stock work that messing with metal, so is there any problem with me setting the tang back a few thousands, thereby fixing the problem once and for all without bending or grinding hammers or nipples?
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I thought I should post a follow-up report:
I decided the easiest first step was to relieve the inside of the cup on the hammer using a Dremel tool, before moving on to more complicated jobs. Popped a couple of caps to smoke an outline of the impact area, then relieved a very little bit from the flange where it was riding closest to the cap.
Took it out yesterday (16 degrees with 20-25kts of wind and higher gusts), and fired just over 30 shots. No missfires. Problem fixed.
Thanks for all the help!
I decided the easiest first step was to relieve the inside of the cup on the hammer using a Dremel tool, before moving on to more complicated jobs. Popped a couple of caps to smoke an outline of the impact area, then relieved a very little bit from the flange where it was riding closest to the cap.
Took it out yesterday (16 degrees with 20-25kts of wind and higher gusts), and fired just over 30 shots. No missfires. Problem fixed.
Thanks for all the help!
Glad to hear the problem is fixed.
I would suggest that you go back in and remove another .010 to .015 just to make sure it won't be a problem in the future.
Sometimes when removing and reinstalling the barrel it will shift .005-.010 forward before the first shot is fired.
Consider it just a little inexpensive insurance.
When your done if all the grinding was on the inside surface of the hammer you could leave it alone, but if I were doing it I would touch it up with a little cold blueing to finish it off.
I would suggest that you go back in and remove another .010 to .015 just to make sure it won't be a problem in the future.
Sometimes when removing and reinstalling the barrel it will shift .005-.010 forward before the first shot is fired.
Consider it just a little inexpensive insurance.
When your done if all the grinding was on the inside surface of the hammer you could leave it alone, but if I were doing it I would touch it up with a little cold blueing to finish it off.
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Good advice 'Zonie on both counts. Consider it done.
lonewolf5347
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Well I received the correct tang for the gun serial no# matched.
Did not make any differece ,well next step is to get to the range and shoot the rifle.
I spoke with a couple of guys that own the GPR,and they all have the same problem,one guy told me that the shorter the nipple taper the more center the hammer will sit over the cap.
He said that track of the wolf has the correct nipple for the lyman GPR,which I will order from them,he also stated his bolster sits in the lock the same as mine.
I hope the hunter barrel 1 in 32 twist will tack drive conicals,thinking in trying the R.E.A.L. 320 bullet out of it .
Will keep you posted on the range results
Did not make any differece ,well next step is to get to the range and shoot the rifle.
I spoke with a couple of guys that own the GPR,and they all have the same problem,one guy told me that the shorter the nipple taper the more center the hammer will sit over the cap.
He said that track of the wolf has the correct nipple for the lyman GPR,which I will order from them,he also stated his bolster sits in the lock the same as mine.
I hope the hunter barrel 1 in 32 twist will tack drive conicals,thinking in trying the R.E.A.L. 320 bullet out of it .
Will keep you posted on the range results
Will, if you still have problems you can do like BrownBear did.
If you don't have one of those high speed hand grinders, there are some around for a fair price.
They are real handy for doing all sorts of little jobs and my only compliant with them is the High Price they want for the little grinding burrs and stones.
Let us know how things work out.
If you don't have one of those high speed hand grinders, there are some around for a fair price.
They are real handy for doing all sorts of little jobs and my only compliant with them is the High Price they want for the little grinding burrs and stones.
Let us know how things work out.
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Keep us up to speed on the Hunter barrel, too. I'm not sure I need one, but curiosity has attacked my checkbook more than once. I'm interested in playing with one for the simple reason that it goes bang.
I discovered (and fixed with the Dremel) one other thing with my GPR: The screw for adjusting the set drigger was so short that it didn't engage anything. I found another (metric) at the hardware store that fit, adjusted the length, and now it has a heck of a trigger. Originally the "set" trigger had a good quarter-inch of creep- basically the same amount of take-up as the unset trigger. Now, when you move the trigger after setting, it goes. Not as light as other brands I have used, but I don't care about that. I simply hate chasing the trigger break half way through the trigger guard.
I discovered (and fixed with the Dremel) one other thing with my GPR: The screw for adjusting the set drigger was so short that it didn't engage anything. I found another (metric) at the hardware store that fit, adjusted the length, and now it has a heck of a trigger. Originally the "set" trigger had a good quarter-inch of creep- basically the same amount of take-up as the unset trigger. Now, when you move the trigger after setting, it goes. Not as light as other brands I have used, but I don't care about that. I simply hate chasing the trigger break half way through the trigger guard.
