Bending a hammer

[WindLaker]

Very long story short, I'm taking parts from an old CVA long rifle kit and building a semi Leman rifle.

Is it possible to bend a case hardened hammer? As I'm putting it together, the hammer is not falling squarely on the nipple. If I move the lock, all my inletting will be screwed up.

Thanks in advance.

Windlaker

 

[Eutycus]

I've broken a CVA hammer from a pistol by trying to bend it cold without the benefit of a heating torch.I don't know if those hammers are pewter or what but metal shouldn't break like that. I'm leaving this up, to an "expert" who knows more on the subject than myself.Are all CVA hammers made from the same alloy?

 

[French Colonial]

I do not know what CVA hammers are made of but surely not pewter, way to soft.

Personally, I would not bend a hammer without heating it up.

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

I've bent hammer on a TC before after heating it up pretty good and bent the spur to side so buddy could use a scope on hawken

 

[WindLaker]

I've bent hammer on a TC before after heating it up pretty good and bent the spur to side so buddy could use a scope on hawken

Did you get it "Red Hot", or just heat it?

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

Did you get it "Red Hot", or just heat it?

red hot

 

[Rifleman1776]

I've bent hammer on a TC before after heating it up pretty good and bent the spur to side so buddy could use a scope on hawken

I was once unable to bend a TC hammer using the heat from a propane torch.

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

I was once unable to bend a TC hammer using the heat from a propane torch.

Ahhhh propane torch might take a long time. I got a cutting torch. No issues heating it up red hot - just don't hit the lever of you be buying a new hammer. I'm sure it can still be done just take a while to heat up

 

[fubar22]

You're going to need to get that piece red hot, and most propane torches won't do the job. A charcoal fire will get it hot enough if you use a blower (hair dryer) on the burning charcoal. You will also need a small vice, tongs, and a small ball-peen hammer or rawhide mallet (rawhide mallet will not mar the finish). Figure out in advance exactly what angle you will need to bend the piece to before you transfer the piece to the vice and practice the maneuver before you heat it. The hot piece will cool down very quickly once it's dogged down tight in the vice. Small steel pieces will bend pretty easily with tongs or light hammer taps if the metal is red hot. After you've made your adjustments, allow the metal to cool down gradually until cool to the touch. Repeat as needed. Do not quench the hot piece in oil or water. Be aware that the process described here will pretty much destroy any case-hardened finish on the hammer.

 

[Nwtradegunner]

You're going to need to get that piece red hot, and most propane torches won't do the job. A charcoal fire will get it hot enough if you use a blower (hair dryer) on the burning charcoal. You will also need a small vice, tongs, and a small ball-peen hammer or rawhide mallet (rawhide mallet will not mar the finish). Figure out in advance exactly what angle you will need to bend the piece to before you transfer the piece to the vice and practice the maneuver before you heat it. The hot piece will cool down very quickly once it's dogged down tight in the vice. Small steel pieces will bend pretty easily with tongs or light hammer taps if the metal is red hot. After you've made your adjustments, allow the metal to cool down gradually until cool to the touch. Repeat as needed. Do not quench the hot piece in oil or water. Be aware that the process described here will pretty much destroy any case-hardened finish on the hammer.

Use a box wrench to bend the hammer. It’s a little more precise.

 

[ironmangler]

You can make a small forge with a propane torch and a "soft" fire brick. Get the brick from a pottery supply for under $5. Drill a hole in the end big enough for the hammer. Drill one in the side for the torch. Hopefully this makes sense.

 

[SDSmlf]

I’ve bent a number of them to better clear a sight like the Lyman 57SML peep sight. Took only a few minutes to get a red glow with a propane torch and then immediately bend. I wouldn’t suggest bending cold, though I’ve never actually attempted bending them while cold.

 

[LRB]

If you cannot get a hammer red hot in the area needed with a propane torch, you have a poor torch. You only need red hot where the bend will take place. If you will use a MAP gas torch, you can use propane with it instead of MAP gas and get nearly the same heat, and heat the entire hammer, if need be, but there should be no need of going that far with it. Mapp gas was only 130° hotter than propane anyway. The Map torch is more expensive, but you get a lot more heat from it than the typical propane torch, too much on small items, and the option of using either Map or propane in the same torch.

 

[longcruise]

I've successfully done minor bending cold with TC and Traditions hammers but I think the important thing is how much bend is being attempted.

 

[SDSmlf]

If you cannot get a hammer red hot in the area needed with a propane torch, you have a poor torch. You only need red hot where the bend will take place. If you will use a MAP gas torch, you can use propane with it instead of MAP gas and get nearly the same heat, and heat the entire hammer, if need be, but there should be no need of going that far with it. Mapp gas was only 130° hotter than propane anyway. The Map torch is more expensive, but you get a lot more heat from it than the typical propane torch, too much on small items, and the option of using either Map or propane in the same torch.

The crowd I worked with claimed the original MAPP gas went away maybe 2010 and the replacement/substitute was closer to propane than the original MAPP gas.

 

[LRB]

The crowd I worked with claimed the original MAPP gas went away maybe 2010 and the replacement/substitute was closer to propane than the original MAPP gas.

Mapp went out a little before 2010. From what I found, the new MAP-pro gas burns at 10% hotter than propane, and 14% lower than real MAPP gas. Anyway, propane will disperse heat in metals much better in a Map/Mapp torch head than in the common torch head most people use. It pulls in more air and possibly/maybe, has a larger diameter orifice. They roar when opened up. Actual flame temperature is a set, and will not be increased, but a larger and deeper area of the metal will be heated with less time and effort. I have brass brazed small and some fair sized work using two of the Map torches together both fueled with propane. Most of my Sterling silver work is done with a common torch and propane. Although MAPP gas is no longer available, at least in the common sized cylinder, if you take notice the price for the replacement did not seem to change. As usual, they change the product, yet keep the price.

 

[SDSmlf]

From what I found, the new MAP-pro gas burns at 10% hotter than propane, and 14% lower than real MAPP gas. Anyway, propane will disperse heat in metals much better in a Map/Mapp torch head than in the common torch head most people use. It pulls in more air and possibly/maybe, has a larger diameter orifice. They roar when opened up. Actual flame temperature is a set, and will not be increased, but a larger and deeper area of the metal will be heated with less time and effort. I have brass brazed small and some fair sized work using two of the Map torches together both fueled with propane. Most of my Sterling silver work is done with a common torch and propane. Although MAPP gas is no longer available, at least in the common sized cylinder, if you take notice the price for the replacement did not seem to change. As usual, they change the product, yet keep the price.

Might want to check your numbers on the temperature differences. The specs I have says

MAPP burns at 5300°F​

MAP-PRO burns at 3730°F​

Propane burns at 3600°F​

Would appear MAP-PRO burns 130°F hotter (3.6%) than propane, and 1570°F cooler (29.6%) than real MAPP gas. Not arguing, just stating the manufacturing specs I have.

​

 

[LRB]

You're reading wrong. 5300°F is a theoretical value when burned with oxygen. Not with air. 3600°F with air. Another source says 2800°F in open air.

 

[Scota@4570]

I have used several heat sources. I grab the bottom of the hammer in a vice with brass sheet to protect it. I figure out what tool will work to best advantage and figure out how it need to move and how far. I make not of how far from where it is before. Most often I use a cresent wrench. I no use an oxy-acetylene torch with a 00 tip and a neutral flame. The advantage is that I can heat the hammer in the exact spot I want it to bend. When it get red-orange hot it will bend with little pressure and it only bends in that one places. The metal reminds me of cold taffy.

Be carefull around the nose recess in the hammer. It is easily deformed. This is reduced by only heat the part you want to bend. With a MAPP gas torch it is more difficult because the heat is spread out.

 

[LRB]

Excellent for those who have an oxy-acetylene torch.