Taller cock and other parts for LH Lyman?

[Canuck Bob]

I worked on my LH Deerstalker last night to spot problems others have noted. One thing that jumped out at me was the poor geometry of the cock and flint to frizzen. My lock sparks but no matter what I've tried it doesn't throw those pleasing showers of white sparks I see in pics. The sparks are white and the frizzen seems to handle the flint without gouging so I suspect the hardening is ok.

Here are some things I've noticed.
-The flint seems to hit the frizzen rather than scrape it. The contact angle is too direct from the low angle (per Paul's discussions). The angle is better bevel down of course but the flint position is better bevel up. Proper flints are coming, currently only have the cut flints.
-The trigger is acceptable but hardly crisp.
-The flint now hits the frizzen higher as I added a decent shim under the flint(3/16" with a lead wrapped flint on top per ebiggs).
-All the springs seem stiff, I'll use Paul's method in the Resource section to test this weekend. It feels like the cock will chop wood!
-As setup now the nose of the flint points to the forward edge of the pan when down. Should it point more to the pan center?
-The pan is circular and slopes forward a bit, combined with a rearward VH (a soft 1/16" rear sunset placement) it can't be proper?
-The small top clamp (?) on the cock is just all wrong, far too small. The rear straight edge is nowhere near the cock's forward face causing it to twist.
-There is a gap between the lock plate and barrel, instructions already found to fix.

Anyone recommend a taller cock that can be made to fit the left hand lock? It seems the TC cock recommended is not available in left. I've looked up folks who sell LH locks and thier parts
lists but I have no idea if these cock's will fit.

Is there a top flint clamp for 3/4" that one can modify available. I saw pictures of the TC clamp and it seems to have a clamp that is cutout on the back to straddle the cock. Anyone own a copy of both to compare?

I'm asking because up here there is nothing available to flintlock muzzeloader shooters who want to tune their locks and or go compare parts.

 

[ebiggs1]

You could use the TC cock......................I think? :hmm:
It will just be on with the unnecessary embossing to the inside.......................won't it? :hmm:
Give it a try and report back as you are not the only south paw on the forum. :wink:

 

[ebiggs1]

BTW, the cock isn't the biggest problem. The touch hole is. Make it 5.64th and cone it and it only takes a few sparks to be a very reliable shooter. :thumbsup:

 

[Canuck Bob]

Was gonna drill it this weekend but got called to work. I'll drill it next week. The spacer really smartened up the lock.

 

[rcbelding]

My lock sparks but no matter what I've tried it doesn't throw those pleasing showers of white sparks I see in pics. The sparks are white and the frizzen seems to handle the flint without gouging so I suspect the hardening is ok.

Here are some things I've noticed.
-The flint seems to hit the frizzen rather than scrape it. The contact angle is too direct from the low angle (per Paul's discussions). The angle is better bevel down of course but the flint position is better bevel up. Proper flints are coming, currently only have the cut flints.
-The trigger is acceptable but hardly crisp.
-The flint now hits the frizzen higher as I added a decent shim under the flint(3/16" with a lead wrapped flint on top per ebiggs).
-All the springs seem stiff, I'll use Paul's method in the Resource section to test this weekend. It feels like the cock will chop wood!
-As setup now the nose of the flint points to the forward edge of the pan when down. Should it point more to the pan center?
-The pan is circular and slopes forward a bit, combined with a rearward VH (a soft 1/16" rear sunset placement) it can't be proper?
-The small top clamp (?) on the cock is just all wrong, far too small. The rear straight edge is nowhere near the cock's forward face causing it to twist.
-There is a gap between the lock plate and barrel, instructions already found to fix.

Now, wait a minute. Take a deep breath.
I was probably asleep, but did you ever describe how often your flintlock misfired?? A Lyman flintlock isn't a one-off produced by a towel head in a cave in Squaloristan. If you truly have a lemon, the best thing is to replace it. My Siler has never produced a shower of sparks, but I reliably get 20-25 shots between misfires. How well does your lock actually function??
You may be a victim of unrealistic expectations. Of course, if you DO have a problem, my apologies for this missive.

------------
Flintlock, Round Ball & Black Powder - Life is Sweet

Extinguish embers in the barrel. ALWAYS wet swab or blow down the barrel after firing!

 

[reloader4410]

I too am a lefty & new to flintlocks. My Lyman GPR seems to throw orange/red sparks. A buddy of mine says it sparks fine, he has shot flintlocks for years.I wonder if all those pictures are faster than the eye can see?

 

[Canuck Bob]

I have not had good luck getting anything like repeatable firing. I now realize my vent is too tiny and my flints are not up to par. That is step one. I also bought a pound of 4F for priming.

I'm a compulsive tinkerer so my motivation is also to learn flintlock hobby gunsmithig. One of the things that is drawing me to Flintlocks and BP is the chance to do one's own gunsmithing. You sure don't see anyone building a Win 94 from a kit!

 

[paulvallandigham]

With the gun barrel and pan completely dry of any powder, hold the gun out at arms length, in a darkened room, and watch where the sparks actually land. If they hit the forward part of the pan, with a new flint, adjusted correctly, then you are OK. It doesn't matter if the flint points forward of the pan when the hammer is down.

If, however, the sparks are hitting outside the pan, and you are getting either mis-fires, or hang-fires, THEN you have a problem, and need to locate the flint further to the rear in your jaws. Often that requires shortening the flint, or buying a shorter flint.

Agates are too soft, and seem to crumble no matter what angle at which they strike. That is why I don't recommend them as gun flints.

In crumbling the edge, they also then don't self-knapp, and easily clog up with bits of steel, which you can see glinting back at you on a sunny day! :shocked2: :nono: A clog edge is not going to cut NEW steel the next time it strikes, unless you stop and knapp the edge again, to remove the steel clogs.

 

[Canuck Bob]

Thanks Paul, the sparks do hit the pan and a garage test with some 4f confirms the pan ignites with the spacer added. I have some english flints and will be ordering Mr. Pearces as well to compare them. I'll modify the vent this weekend.

Dutch's system arrived today and I am reading and rereading it for the weekend. A fine gentleman to deal with.