• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

T/C set trigger not "setting"

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

123.DieselBenz

45 Cal.
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
706
Reaction score
0
Howdy!

I just got a T/C Seneca .36

I read the manual, but I can't get the rear trigger to "set"

When I pull the hammer to "half cock" it moves the rear trigger a tad, and again at "full cock" but when I pull it, it just goes back, but does not "click"

The adj screw was out quite aways . . . I turned it in as per the manual, still nothing . . . the rear trigger seems to have spring resistance, but also moves forward without resistance. Even turning in the screw all the way . . . nothing!

I have not shot it yet . . . but the front trigger releases the hammer (I keep my thumb on the hammer!)

Should I take it apart? How do I do that? Is something broken?
 
If I'm reading your post correctly, it sounds like the trigger wouldn't click, or set, before you adjusted the screw. Then it appears that you turned the adjustment screw IN, trying to get the trigger to click.

If this is correct, then you are turning the screw in the wrong direction. I'm thinking the screw was already IN too much when you first tried to set the trigger. Turning the screw in more from that point is only making it more impossible for the trigger to set. Try backing the screw OUT, then checking if the trigger catches or not. If not, then back it out some more. Keep backing out and checking until the trigger catches. A quick check to determine if the triggers are working correctly is to take the adjustment screw all the way out (be careful though, those little buggers can get lost easily). If the trigger doesn't catch then, that tells you there's a problem inside. I recommend just backing it out a little at a time, since those screws are also a pain to get started back in. Hope this helps, Bill
 
Yes, I did already take the screw out all the way, and yes it is kinda small . . . !

At first I thought that maybe the trigger guard was bent, as the trigger was hitting that when pulled back all the way, I removed that, but still the problem.

I'll try to take a video on my lunch break . . .
 
I'm just guessing but it sounds like the spring tension on the rear trigger is too high. The mainspring on the rear trigger can push the blade up to the point where it will not allow the sear to engage.

Pull the triggers and see how they work out of the rifle. Also pull the lock and do the same thing. Make sure everything is functioning as it should out of the rifle. Then check for wood chips or slivers in the mortices that could be blocking functioning of both lock and triggers.
 
Im guessing the screws on the inside portion of the lock are loose. I was having the same issue with one of my T/C locks and that was the problem. Just make sure everything is aligned properly before you tighten them back down.
 
Well . . . I'll be a French Fried Armadillo! It seems to work now!

I took off the TG as it looked like the trigger was hitting it . . .

While taking the video, it works, but I think I'll still take it apart and see how it works . . . Does it appear to work "normal"?
[youtube]44mT4cB1byU[/youtube]
 
Looks like something is loose. Clean and oil your lock and tighten the screws just snug!
 
I kinda chickened out . . . I pulled the wood screw on the bottom which looked like it held the trigger assembly in from the bottom:
UnderTrigger.jpg


But it doesn't come out, but . . . I have not pried on it . . .

I was able to snug up this screw:
Outside.jpg


I see a pin behind the screw that holds the hammer on . . . does the lock need to come off first before the trigger will drop out?
Hammer.jpg


Are there any "Surprises" that will jump out when I take it apart?
 
Looks like it's setting to me, but that it's set so light it's just barely engaging the front trigger sear.
Pull the lock out and watch what the set trigger adjusting screw does, you'll soon see where the adjustment needs to be for good control on the front. If it's set too light, it either won't engage or the front trigger will trip from even a tap on the stock.
 
You'll find that the tang bolt goes through from the top and holds the front of the trigger group in from above. No surprises in there either. A very simple system. Your doin fine sofar.
 
I meant to pull out the trigger assembly, but you might as well pull the lock too and make sure nothings gummed up in there.
 
So . . . if I pull the four screws left, it willl just come apart in my hands, and will look "normal" (I'm only familar w/double action revolvers)
 
The big screw on the left side of the stock that you snugged up, remove it and the lock should come out! From the looks of it the trigger is ready to come out now wiggle it! Don't worry nothing else will fly out at this point! Neither one has to come out first, you can remove just one or both!
 
I couldn't tell from watching your video but just a word of caution.
Never "fire" a double set trigger when the hammer is at 'half-cock'. Doing so can break the sear or the tumbler.

As for your video, those things work just like a helper. Ask a fellow worker to come over and fix your computer because it isn't working at all. As soon as he/she does come over the darn thing starts working perfectly. :rotf:
 
"Are there any "Surprises" that will jump out when I take it apart?"

Nope, looks to me like you just need to pull everything out, claen it and put it back.
Take the barrel off, take that screw out for the lock, pull that out.
This model does not have a through stock tang bolt, in your photo of the trigger plate from the bottom, the triggers are ready to come out. Grab'm and pull'm out.
Your not going to wreck anything with basic removel and install, they are made to be serviced. Lack of service makes things gummed up and sticky inside there.
Go ahead, take a deep breath, grow a pair, and break down the gun for cleaning. :wink:
 
OK! I got it out! I had to pry out the trigger assembly it was a snug fit! Doesn't look like it had ever been taken out before! The story is the guy I bought it from inherited it from his step-dad who bought it new . . . it has been fired less than 125 times . . .

I did not need to remove the tang screws, as they are only 1/2" wood screws . . .

Here is what I found!
LockTrigger.jpg


Trigger.jpg


That is wood on the side of the trigger! (I told you it was a tight fit!) I oiled it up, should be ready to go! I did adjust the trigger a bit after the video was taken . . . so it seems to work properly now.

Thank you everybody!
 
Rogue River said:
You might want to scrape the inside edges of the trigger inlet so that it isn't so tight.

That's good advise. An clean all those little wood chips in the mortices out.
Get a little oil inside those moving lock parts.

When I'm cleaning the lock comes out about every other cleaning for sure, and the trigger is pulled and cleaned/oiled at least twice a year.

Congrats on tearing it down,,Good job! :thumbsup:

You can actually drive those two pins out of the trigger and polish for a better trigger but let's just go one step at a time, :wink:
 
I wiped down the outside of the trigger assembly with a lightly oiled rag, it slipped right back in, if it comes out hard next time, I'll clean it up a tad . . .

It's all put back together now, hopefully I'll go git it dirty this weekend . . . :grin:
 
yeah really! i use the debit machine at work then it rejects a guys card, then a co worker comes over to help me using the exact same procedure i did then the blasted thing works for them.
 
Back
Top