i hope somebody can give me some help i was shooting my 54 and the set trigger was hard to squeeze so i screwed the set trigger screw in but it didn't make a diff i have not pulled it apart yet to see or should i just get hold of t/c any help would be most welcome .
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set trigger on T/C .54
- Thread starter bucky1
- Start date
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I have the Renegade, i kind of messed around the set trigger n front just getting the feel of it. I screwed it up till it bottomed out. Of course it stopped it from setting the front. So i backed it way out n readjusted till it had about 4 lbs on front when set. I did not like the hair set at 3/4 lb. Now i also have a Hawken in .45 with set trigger, i don't mind helping best i can for you.
Ok, the rear trigger is the set trigger.
The front trigger is the primary trigger.
The rear is supposed to be hard to pull, your pulling against the leaf spring that drives the rear cam.
The screw between the triggers adjusts how much the rear cam engages the primary trigger.
T/C will do nothing for you as they have stopped all production and service for these old cap lock rifles.
Remove the trigger guard, then remove the triggers clean them, lube them, and play with it in your hands, you'll see how it works.
(nothing will fly out or go "sproing")
It'll work in your hands just like it does in the rifle.
The screw that holds that leaf spring in can be adjusted with a small turn to change the amount of tension it applies to the rear trigger,, but you really do want it to be firm so it drives the cam quickly and firmly.
If you have a 93 or newer rifle, you'll have to remove the front tang bolt,, because it's used to hold the assembly in.
Older ones didn't have that feature the tang is held in with 2 wood screws.
And you don't need to be a gorilla when assembling, just snug things up, don't over-tighten,,
p.s. take the lock out too, clean it and oil it (and tighten those screws on that plate)
The front trigger is the primary trigger.
The rear is supposed to be hard to pull, your pulling against the leaf spring that drives the rear cam.
The screw between the triggers adjusts how much the rear cam engages the primary trigger.
T/C will do nothing for you as they have stopped all production and service for these old cap lock rifles.
Remove the trigger guard, then remove the triggers clean them, lube them, and play with it in your hands, you'll see how it works.
(nothing will fly out or go "sproing")
It'll work in your hands just like it does in the rifle.
The screw that holds that leaf spring in can be adjusted with a small turn to change the amount of tension it applies to the rear trigger,, but you really do want it to be firm so it drives the cam quickly and firmly.
If you have a 93 or newer rifle, you'll have to remove the front tang bolt,, because it's used to hold the assembly in.
Older ones didn't have that feature the tang is held in with 2 wood screws.
And you don't need to be a gorilla when assembling, just snug things up, don't over-tighten,,
p.s. take the lock out too, clean it and oil it (and tighten those screws on that plate)
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I have two ML's with a set trigger. A TC Hawken and a Traditions. And they both pull hard.
I doubt I'd bother with it hunting, but on a bench I put up with it. I haven't even looked at it to see exactly how set trigger works.
But I'm all eyes to learn something.
I doubt I'd bother with it hunting, but on a bench I put up with it. I haven't even looked at it to see exactly how set trigger works.
But I'm all eyes to learn something.
If the main spring in your trigger assembly is screwed down too tight it will make it very difficult to get a good trigger pull. Try removing the trigger assembly and cleaning as mentioned above, then resassemble and try backing off the screw that holds the main spring until you have a nice trigger pull using the front trigger and it is not too difficult to set it. The main spring is at the rear of the trigger assembly - can't miss it.
(Basically what Necchi said!)
(Basically what Necchi said!)
TCs have a very rough trigger bar from the factory, like a washboard, I have found this makes for a hard unset trigger pull.
I have polished the trigger bars in two TC Hawken rifles, one had a 9# trigger which dropped to a 6# trigger after I polished the bar. The other had a 6# trigger that dropped to a 3# trigger after I polished the bar.
You can see on the left just how rough the original trigger bar was compared to the part I polished. I polished the sear as well. I didn't notice how out of focus the picture was when I took it but you can clearly see just how bad the factory trigger bar was.
I have polished the trigger bars in two TC Hawken rifles, one had a 9# trigger which dropped to a 6# trigger after I polished the bar. The other had a 6# trigger that dropped to a 3# trigger after I polished the bar.
You can see on the left just how rough the original trigger bar was compared to the part I polished. I polished the sear as well. I didn't notice how out of focus the picture was when I took it but you can clearly see just how bad the factory trigger bar was.
I have two T/C Hawkens, flint and cap. The QC on the locks and triggers is appalling but fixable. I did all the polishing noted above but still had a heavy, gritty non-set trigger on the flinter, a GB rescue project. The culprit was the coiled sear spring grinding in a sloppy fit bore. No amount of polishing, deburring and greasing would keep the coil spring from stacking and scraping. Nipping a full turn off the coil fixed most of the problem. You can easily check your T/C for this malady by holding the cock back just off the full cock sear and stroking the front trigger.
I hate such firearm designs that choose compression coil springs over leaf springs. They end up scraping on a cylinder bore, creating horrible trigger pulls, and wearing out from rubbing.
I hate such firearm designs that choose compression coil springs over leaf springs. They end up scraping on a cylinder bore, creating horrible trigger pulls, and wearing out from rubbing.
A-lot of advice doled out on here and not one mention that this set trigger has to be adjusted properly via the screw you've already moved. I'm not going to try and walk you through doing it myself but a quick search on You Tube will yield the result you need to safely reset it once you get to that point. An improperly adjusted trigger is a dangerous trigger, just sayin.
That's why I asked him to take the thing out and look at it, play with it.
You can explain to folks in words basic geometry all ya want, and most read just like I did in my Jr year!!
Pictures work a might better if ya draw arrows on'm,, (and I have them on here but I'm not going to dig a decade ago,,
But hands on,, physically functioning one of these works really well, these are 17th century basic function locks and triggers.
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All this talk about set triggers got me thinking about mine. 54 cal CVA as well.
It has always been a bit on the hard side to set..
I took it out, cleaned it, an noted that it set much easier. Put it back in and it was a harder set.
What I didn’t notice before was the spring for the set trigger was in contact with the stock. I removed some wood, and put it back together, and now there isn’t a difference setting it, uninstalled vs installed.
It wasn’t an obvious contact either. It made a huge difference. Since the set spring is flat, there wasn’t much in the way of a mark on the wood..
It has always been a bit on the hard side to set..
I took it out, cleaned it, an noted that it set much easier. Put it back in and it was a harder set.
What I didn’t notice before was the spring for the set trigger was in contact with the stock. I removed some wood, and put it back together, and now there isn’t a difference setting it, uninstalled vs installed.
It wasn’t an obvious contact either. It made a huge difference. Since the set spring is flat, there wasn’t much in the way of a mark on the wood..
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The T/C lock with its coiled spring is a modern 20th century innovation. Perhaps easier to manufacture and has some advantages to a flat spring, but not necessarily better.
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