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T/C Hawken lock problem

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I have used "Gun Oils" for years in all my guns, including the actions( locks) of my Mlers. However, I tried the cooking oil just to see how it did, and found it works as well as the gun oils, and its a LOT CHEAPER. So, if you haven't tried it, ( I am used to being called a heretic, guys!) don't knock it. I was in the same position, and of the same attitude as all you nay-sayers a few years ago. :hmm:

Oh, I don't SOAK any metal parts in ANY OIL. I use a minimal amount of oil to lubricate the parts that rub together. Period. No more; no less. :bow: :hmm: :grin:
 
Hey guys, maybe we should all put our pennies together and get Paul a bottle of gun oil. :thumbsup: Bill
 
That is very kind of you, but its not needed. I still have half a dozen gun oils on hand.

My thought to try vegetable oil began when I noticed my bottle of Jojoba oil( replacement for Sperm Whale Oil) was about half used. When I priced it at Friendship, the new cost was about 4 x what I paid for mine 12-15 years ago!

Jojoba oil is made from the wax of the Jojoba bean, which grows on the Jojoba plant. It seems to require very little moisture, produces an abundant crop of beans, and grows all over desert areas in the Far West. At one point, it was being touted as the Salvation of the "Energy Crisis" but the Greenies seem to have abandoned that idea, now. Probably because the oil is being used by gun owners. :haha: :shocked2: :rotf: :grin: :thumbsup:
 
Well heck Paul, I tried :surrender: .

Here's my experience with vegatable oil. Years ago, my brother and I went elk hunting and ended up with about three days of rain to contend with. After getting back to camp the first day, we decided we'd better dry off and oil the old smokepoles. Between the two of us, we didn't bring a drop of gun oil, so we got out the cooking oil and applied it to our tiggers and locks and barrels. Worked ok, but the next time I took off the lock and triggers, they were all gummed up. Apparently, that kind of oil gets thicker as time goes by.

Gun oil, 3-in-one-oil, sewing machine oil, have a higher viscosity than vegatable oil and won't gum up and get stiff. Bill
 
You put Ballistol on your gun??? What's with that? I've been using it as an aftershave. It's just the thing for the REAL man. ;>} :rotf:
 
Most cooking oils will get cloudy, and " gum up" when mixed with water. I suspect some water got into the lock mortise, and into the cooking oil.

I did not have that problem with either Jojoba or Olive Oil. There are some cooking oils with additives, that also help the oil gum up. I stay with the cheapest store brand cooking oil that I can buy, and stay away from " Corn oil", or other such claims. I find no problem using Ballistol, or any other mineral oil for lubing the action. These are highly processed, and remove the elements in petroleum oil that leaves the Tars in the barrel, powder chambers, and flash channels. Like the oils I have mentioned, these mineral oils also don't seem to cloud, or gum up when mixed with water. :hmm: :grin:
 
I've been using olive oil....just a tiny bit off a old T-Shirt to lube and wipe guns down.

I've learned that petro oils will seep into wood and weaken it over time but I use it sparingly on metal to metal but not around powder or where powder goes.

I us TC 1000 "Duck Butter" on barrel and the wood sometimes according to the weather.

Tell you what....I loaded my 50cal. Flintlock on or about the first of October and hunted it a couple of times and then left it outside in the garage until just after the first of January....even used the same pan powder.....

I took the gun out into pouring rain in the backyard and shot a :Bullseye: at sixty yards.

It went off for my first shot of the new year with a proud result. :)
 
Interesting. I do use olive oil for the leather items I make and use in ancient reenactment activities.

It works quite well..and now I think on it I also use it for my shortsword as well. Hmmmm.

I use the old stuff to burn in my oil lamps. Pretty fair all around use oil.

I had never thought to use it in my muzzleloaders.

Siani
 
"( I am used to being called a heretic, guys!)"

Heretic? Not even I would label you that.
 
"Hubric"--- say, what??? No such word in my dictionary. :surrender: I certainly don't show any "Hubris", here, or elsewhere. I answer more questions with " I don't know", or with , " I may know someone else who knows the answer you want", than I can answer questions from my own limited knowledge. I do have a "garbage can" full of facts I have gathered all my life, sitting on my shoulders :haha: , and I surprise myself whenever I can dip into that, to come out with some information that might be helpful to someone. :idunno: :surrender: :thumbsup:
 
OK.....Paul

Here's one for you [1]

Question : Would you scrub inside the bore of your flintlock .....scrub it down to bare metal and start using bore solvent and ballistol or gun oil ? :idunno:

PS.....I've read all that's been posted on new steel barrels and accuracy .....understand there are some strong views on the subject. I've never questioned members here.....but there's always a first time.
 
Please insert the word muzzleloader instead of Flintlock...........I haven't posted much lately.

Thanks ...... Moderator, if this question is off topic and it probably is...remove the question all together or maybe send it to Paul in a message.
 
How about garrulous? Seriously everyone, actually this man, Mr. vallandigham, does and had done more for the shooting sports than most of us ever have. To that I say thank you.
 
See my PT, asking some clarifying questions. When I know those answers, I will post my response here for everyone to read. Thanks. :thumbsup:
 
I have yet to find a lube that doesnt gum over a long period of time...one of the better ones I use on locks was marketed by a modern gun maker as "light oil" its 50/50 oil and powdered teflon..I think it was once called "friction block"....really works well on locks.I also like Break Free for all around use including ML bores,just be sure to get it all out before firing
 
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