stain and finish suggestions

[captaincaveman]

I just ordered a Southern rifle kit from TVM (TONI YOU'RE THE BEST :bow, and Ed Cain from Cain's Outdoor is putting me in touch with a feller to put it together for me(caveman + stock + chisles = firewood) in the white. I'll have it in about 2 monthes. I got a plain maple stock and I need some suggestions on what color to stain it and what to finish it with. I'm going to brown the barrel and all the furniture. Pics would be great. Thanks fellas :hatsoff:

Josh

 

[Norskie]

Aqua Fortis and boiled linseed oil. Basic, pc and good looking.
Moose

 

[FASTFRED]

Have used aqua fortes on maple for 30 years and it always seems to darken too much with age, often to the point of not being able to see any figure in a nice piece of wood at all.. Believe it is from the acid base that I have never been able to completely neutralize...If you use it suggest leaving the tone on the light side and then you may end up with what you really want...Have had some luck with it and then steel wooling it heavy before finish...

Been using a water based walnut with a little mahogony (red) added to get a nice clear stain job with the old slightly red tint...Linseed and tung oil are nice, but take a lot of time (multi appication and dry)...Into satin spray spar urathane anymore...Builds/fills nice and wears very well and easy to apply...Just my opinion... :winking: ...The Lizard...

 

[captaincaveman]

thanks for the ideas. Keep'em coming fellas

Josh

 

The closest commercially available finish to that used on originals (1700-1900's that is) is Tried and True Oil Varnish[url] www.triedandtrue.com[/url]

For stain I also use only aqua fortis (aka ferric nitrate - available from Mike Lea and others - do a search here) for maple - apply, then heat immediately (just don't char the wood), neutralize with lye (Red Devil is one source) mixed with water or baking soda mixed with water. If it continues to get dark then you're either not getting it hot enough/long enough or neutralzing enough - apply two to three coats of the water lye or soda mix.
Anotehr option is "vinegar stain" (aka ferric acetate and like aqua fortis not really a stain but rather a chemical reagent - the mix reacts chemcially with the tannins and sugars in the wood to change the color - on maple it's usually a red/brwon on oak it will be black......)

as always others mileage will vary........

 

[Frank/Pa]

Concur with leather moose. Aqua fortis and boiled linseed oil.

 

[Vaino]

Have been using walnut/mahogany aniline stains for 25 years and like the abilty of this stain to penetrate varnish sealers when wet sanding some rough areas. Had a disastrous experience sitting in an all day rain w/ a linseed oil finished LR.....a gunky mess after many, many time consuming hand rubbed coats. Presently use 2 coats of LMF Varnish Sealer followed by a few thin coats {depends on pore filling} of Wahkon Bay True Coat. Total finish time is approx. a week. This yields a slight satin finish which eliminates the need for de-glossing most shiny varnish finishes and is quite moisture resistant......Fred

 

[Norskie]

Generally linseed oil finishes that turn sticky have had the oil put on too thickly. Linseed oil should fill the wood, not lay on top of it. You're supposed to be touching wood, not finish.
That being said, I use a linseed oil varnish (resin and turpentine added) for my last few rubbings and finish by lightly rubbing with beeswax on a rag. But when I'm done I'm looking at wood, not something preserved in amber. (sorry about the metaphor)
Moose

 

[Old40Rod]

I've used an BLO and spar varnish mix... IIRC, about 4:1 BLO to Spar. No problems drying. After several thin coats of mix I put on a thin coat of car wax...

 

[captaincaveman]

kinda how I thought this thread would go. Ask 10 people, get 10 different answers :grin: . Anybody have pics of aqua fortis or vinager on maple? thanks yall :thumbsup:

Josh

 

[Goldhunter]

Try searching for White buffalo who has many pics on here about vinegar stain (examples). I've also got a knife I did with vinegar stain.

 

[Ed Wenger]

Josh...
This is a pic of a fowler I did with vinegar stain and an I. Haines done with Aquia Fortes...
Ed

 

[DrTimboone]

Well, I have had really good luck with Chambers Traditional Oil Finish. :bow: It is a medium oil varnish and has some good dryers in it. No problems in the rain. :thumbsup:

I sealed my cherry fowler with garnet shellac and then put the Chambers varnish on as a finish. works great. :thumbsup:

I have a gallon of vinegar in the garage waiting for some iron to get to work for my next maple gun. :hmm: