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Best Stain for Figured Black Walnut?

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I used aniline dyes on my fusil, scarlet and oak brown, didn't have any other brown! Anyway, played with different amounts of each until I found what I liked. I used Original oil from Chambers to finish it.
 

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i just did a marlin 444s and a browning A5 restoration for customers. i used chambers oil on both, no stain needed. they came out fantastic! chambers is better on walnut than maple,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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Walnut is rather porous. The grain needs to be filled usually with a dark filler. Depending on the wood it may need a little color. Think of the Winchester Red stocks.
Filling the grain is really important with walnut. Just finished without filling the grain with a dark filler.....
It can look rather dead and boring.

Some walnut can really benefit from staining and adjusting the color. On the other hand, a really piece of walnut doesn't necessarily need staining. The coloration varies widely within the species and how it is dried. Some can be very pale and weak looking if just finished with oil.

If you choose to stain, subtle is usually best. You can use aniline dyes or you can also tint the finish with aniline dyes. I generally adjust things as I build a finish to get the color I like.

Jim

I'll 2nd what 54ball and Jim Kibler wrote. I can see what many have posted about just using oil, many coats thereof, but I've refinished a number of walnut stocks over the years using this and that and all needed some sort of filler/stain IMO. While I've never done a really highly figured piece of wood, the ones I did do were enhanced by using a filler and/or a stain. One of my favorite stains is one called Herters French Liquid which is a filler and stain. Gives the wood a slightly reddish hue if you like that (I do) and is described to produce the same color and hue of pre-64 Winchesters and older Browning firearms. The old Herters product is carried by Brownells and also comes in a 'Walnut' choice but I have no knowledge of its outcome. Someday I might have to get a walnut stocked muzzle loader build and see what I can do with it. I like a reddish hue on a gunstock, whenever I get around to doing my maple Kibler SMR it will have a reddish hue to the wood, but not a red red, just a light hint with darker overtones. I'm one of those guys that have no problem with Uberti's reddish revolver grips that alot of shooters strip and redo.

Another Brownells product I like and have used alot in refinishing gunstocks is their 5 bottle assortment of powdered wood dyes you can mix together for whatever pleases your eye. My Ol' TC Hawken caplock I refinished using a three stain combo came out very good as far as color after some experimentation. Regarding the subject of a finish, I've used a number of things. I always thought Tru-Oil was the epitome of a gun finish until I picked up a finish called 'Arrow Gunstock Finish' at a gunshow back in the 80's. It is applied as Tru-Oil but IMO is several light years ahead of Tru-Oil. It is available online at ''arrowwoodfinish.com'. Just seems to give a better overall finish and it is very very durable. The first time I used it was on my TC Hawken and since refinishing it, the TC has been subjected to rain and snow and looks as if just applied. One tough finish. IMO just linseed oil while looking nice on old military bolt guns and M1 Garands isn't up to the bar on other firearms. It was used by the military as it was fast and effective for the 1000's of arms being manufactured. Don't think the gov't would put up with people hand rubbing finish on a daily basis at some armory.
 
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