Spiller & Burr: Defarb of a Defarb

[Cornbread]

After many many years, the intended work to finish defarbing this revolver is about 90% complete.
Most of the first round of defarbing work was done by Lodgewood, Mfg. Italian proofs were removed, an arsenal number was stamped on various parts and some aging was added.
But it just wasn’t “finished”. For some odd reason the opening behind the cylinder for cap application/removal was made tiny compared to originals, there was no sight notch in the hammer, and the opening for loading conical ball wasn’t shaped correctly (although the opening on mine was enlarged for conical ball, I finished it by shaping it more like an original).

Remaining 10% work may entail futzing with the brass front sight and make it more cone shaped and I want to try and etch the “Spiller & Burr name on the top barrel flat. Anyway, that will come later after practice (if it can be done at all).

Just thought I’d post the results here since wife and young Padawan child could care less.
Anyone else accomplish this work on theirs with success?

Regards,
James

First set of images are the before….

 

[Cornbread]

…and the after.

I hoped to replicate the “twist” in original cylinders by re-bluing it in streaks.

The font choice to etch “Spiller & Burr” is very odd. Before entering the fire service I was a graphic designer and noticed the spacing immediately and some of the characters are different as well as the kerning.
If anyone has etched a barrel, let me know. YouTube is helpful but I’d like to hear your thoughts if you’ve tried it.

I replaced the repro screw holding the turnscrew too. The repro is WAY too BIG.

James

 

[B P Arn]

It's too late now, but there is not supposed to be a rear sight notch in the hammer.

 

[Cornbread]

Not even like the one shown on the YouTube “Forgotten Weapons” episode?

If not, there’s a fix for that!

 

[Secesh]

I’m a little late to this thread but how did the etching of the barrel turn out?

 

[Cornbread]

Good evening,
Thank you for the reminder…however, I was never able to get it etched. I still have that on the “round-tuit” list!

If and when I do, I’ll update this thread.

Regards

 

[Secesh]

Sounds great. I hope you have good luck with it.

You did a nice job with the thumb groove on the recoil shield. I’m planning to do the same thing with my S&B.

Are you planning to put the C.S. surcharge on the frame?

 

[Cornbread]

Good morning,
Thank you for saying that. I appreciate it! Why no one else has said anything about why that groove is so small on the repros is beyond me! I found an attachment for my Dremel I called a “donut” that softly grinds without gouging. I blacked out the area to be removed and because the attachment was round and somewhat soft, it was simple and didn’t need much if any follow up work. Makes applying caps easier!

It has the “C.S” (minus the other period) on there but the font and stamp size is different. I’m going to rub that off when I get the correct one. Lodgewood “might” have the right one now or I may leave it blank. I found a link somewhere where someone compiled good detailed research on most or all the existing S&B originals and parts and was amazed at the inconsistency of marking on the frame, barrel, etc. So leaving it plain as an Amish farmer would be ok. Others mileage may vary! ;-)

James

 

[Secesh]

Ah, I can see the C.S stamping now. Had to zoom in on the photo to see it. Yes, that font is way too large.

I am not aware of what size characters and figures were originally used for the surcharge and serial numbering, as I have not had the honor of personally inspecting an original Spiller & Burr, but I will guess that they are between 1/16” and 3/32” in height. I can say however that on both Atlanta and Macon Arsenal examples you will find there were two different styles of figures used for the serial numbers. Probably due to replacing stamps that were damaged with a different style of figure. John Sexton talks about this in his publication on serial numbering of existing examples of 1st and 2nd models revolvers.

 

[Secesh]

As for why the groove in the recoil shield is small I would venture that it is done that way to save on machining and finishing time and not because it would look too similar to the original

It would be quite a challenge for anyone to use the Pietta for a counterfeit S&B. Hammer safety notches on the Pietta cylinder are too deep, stop notches are too long and narrow, barrel is incorrect length and does not have correct rifling. The brass alloy is also a different mixture between the Pietta and original revolver.

All that in consideration the Pietta is a pretty solid representation of the original and a darn nice piece. I intend on acquiring another in the near future.

 

[Cornbread]

Hello,
Yes! I do believe John Sexton was the author, that rings a bell! There was mention of both Atlanta and Macon manufacture, that I did not find nor know before. It’s is a well researched and well documented audible. I bookmarked it.

You can see why I want to remove the original “CS” and replace it with the correct lettering. The period stamps I have now, are still way too large. So they must be special stamps that need to be made or the correct size needs to be found.

I do wish this reproduction (I bought it already “defarbed”) had the correct cylinder without the stops. It would give a whole new, look to the revolver, and would make it even more authentic.

James