Solvent-only cleaning???

[mooman76]

I use real black but have some Pyrodex I'm trying to use up too. I had it from awhile back when I couldn't get the real stuff. I use Hopps #9.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I've done it. It works fine. No real problems..but it takes a lot of Ballistol soaked patches.
I no longer clean that way. I shoot quite a bit these days...several times a week. I've gone back to the more traditional water cleaning, with Ballistol followup. That works fine too.
Your choice. :hatsoff:

Indeed, I love ballistol and it does work great, but IMO water just cleans so much better. I mainly use it for metal protection, my dad's used the stuff for years and his firearms, each one is in top shape. So, it's what I've grown up with. Also ballistol works great on wood, just like an oil rubbed finish. Last but not least... I love the smell of it!

Ballistol is nothing like an oil finish on wood. Correct oils are nut and seed oils that turn to a tough varnish when exposed to oxygen. The mineral oil (baby oil) in Ballistol may make your wood shiney and give you a visual feelgood, but it isn't effective for protecting or preserving wood. If you don't know how to apply a proper oil finish to wood, but want to protect it and make it look nice, get some non abrasive car wax (not polish) and use it to preserve your stock.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I've done it. It works fine. No real problems..but it takes a lot of Ballistol soaked patches.
I no longer clean that way. I shoot quite a bit these days...several times a week. I've gone back to the more traditional water cleaning, with Ballistol followup. That works fine too.
Your choice. :hatsoff:

Indeed, I love ballistol and it does work great, but IMO water just cleans so much better. I mainly use it for metal protection, my dad's used the stuff for years and his firearms, each one is in top shape. So, it's what I've grown up with. Also ballistol works great on wood, just like an oil rubbed finish. Last but not least... I love the smell of it!

Ballistol is nothing like an oil finish on wood. Correct oils are nut and seed oils that turn to a tough varnish when exposed to oxygen. The mineral oil (baby oil) in Ballistol may make your wood shiney and give you a visual feelgood, but it isn't effective for protecting or preserving wood. If you don't know how to apply a proper oil finish to wood, but want to protect it and make it look nice, get some non abrasive car wax (not polish) and use it to preserve your stock.

Your response is valid, and common sense says ballistol isn't a hard setting finish. That's why continued applications are crucial. I use both natural linseed oil and also will continue the use of ballistol as a wood preserving agent... In our hot and humid summer weather, never once have I noticed any unwanted effects of ballistol and wood. If there is any physical, as in visual or written documentation as to why ballistol SHOULD NOT be used on wood I'd be very interested to see that... However, I can comfortably say It works because in the rain, humidity and snow I've trekked through I can say it has proven it's use on stocks, knife handles, axe handles and hawk handles... Yet it may not be good for you and I respect that. My rifles don't sit in a safe, they get used and if the use of ballistol was to cause any issues, I'm certain my eye would have caught the effects by now. :thumbsup:

 

[leslie]

I discussed wood preserving with an antique restorer and got a big laugh when I mentioned using oil based stuff.The best way to preserve wood is with wax preferably furniture wax, the harder the better.Floor wax will work but is softer.One drawback it takes a lot of elbow grease to make it shine.The wood already is sealed with the original finish so the oil just sits on the surface and gives a shiny finish.The reason you have had good luck with the ballistol is that the rifle had a good original finish.The exception to all this is a linseed oil finish and that may benefit from additional applications.

 

[Old Creek]

I've done it. It works fine. No real problems..but it takes a lot of Ballistol soaked patches.
I no longer clean that way. I shoot quite a bit these days...several times a week. I've gone back to the more traditional water cleaning, with Ballistol followup. That works fine too.
Your choice. :hatsoff:

Indeed, I love ballistol and it does work great, but IMO water just cleans so much better. I mainly use it for metal protection, my dad's used the stuff for years and his firearms, each one is in top shape. So, it's what I've grown up with. Also ballistol works great on wood, just like an oil rubbed finish. Last but not least... I love the smell of it!

I would have never thought I would have found anyone who likes the smell(iness) of ballistol, it must be the memorys it conjures.

creek

 

[Crewdawg445]

Oh creek I like it, for the longest time I didn't, but it grew on me... haha.

Charlie, to correct I've used ballistol with and without any linseed oil base coat... Like I mentioned previously, it's success (from what I've concluded) largely depends on continued use. It's not an apply and leave preservative. For me, I enjoy sitting and occasionally hand rubbing multiple applications, to each his own but if your accepting to what it is and is not, ballistol works simple as that.

Now, I think we've gotten a little
ff from the original topic... lol

 

[SgtErv]

The sheer amount of crud to get out of a barrel after a day of shooting makes me wonder how long it would take to clean with solvent only. Pouring some water through it knocks the most of it off. I use a few drops of some solvent and a brush at first just to help break it up. Takes a bit of mopping up to get a dry patch when you're done but I can't imagine it compares to the number of patches using only solvent.

 

[azmntman]

All/most solvent has ALOT of water??

 

[mr.flintlock]

For cleaning REAL black powder, good old H20 is really all you need. My oldest rifle is a CVA mountain rifle that is about 35 years old and has had thousands of shots fired through it. The only way that I have ever cleaned it has been to remove the barrel and nipple and drop the breach down in an old coffee pot full of hot water and with a patched jag, pumped the hot water in and out of the barrel. I then use clean dry patches to dry it out. The bore is still perfect in that old rifle. Now, if you are shooting synthetic black powder, you probably need to use something besides water.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Technically, and by definition, water is a solvent.....and it is the best solvent for the job.

 

[Adui]

My first BP gun was my CVA Navy Colt kit bought in 88. I didn't have any idea what I was doing beyond the instructions for the build, and the little bit of advice on what and how to shoot it I got from the shop I bought it.

That said, I cleaned that old pistol with Hoppe's #9 just like I would a modern pistol till the day I got my .50 Hawken and access to a shop that knew muzzle loaders in 94 or 95. Only time I had rust on the pistol was when I didn't adequately preserve it for long term storage for the two years it sat on Mom's shelf while I was in Charleston and overseas with the navy. Now that I know it don't need it I use the same stuff for the pistol as my rifle, and just dry it well and oil it when I am done. (Though in fairness she ain't been shot since about 2013)
My water / simple green costs a bunch less than Hoppe's and my wife doesn't complain about the smell.

 

[azmntman]

I LOVE the smell of Hoppes Blk Pwdr Patch Lube/solvent myself. Brings back memories of the first few weeks at this

 

[SgtErv]

I prefer it to simple green - that stuff reminds me of mopping in the army hahaha. Barricade smells the best imho haha