Solder for patchbox?

[Kuckus]

Gentlemen,
What is the recommended (proven) way to attach an iron latch to a brass patchbox? I'm working on my first build and I can't seem to keep the squared iron pin in the patchbox lid with the old 50/50 solder and flux :cursing: . Any suggestions? I'm trying to get the Lancaster done in time to present it to my father on father's day!

Regards,
Kenny

 

[davy]

Gentlemen,
What is the recommended (proven) way to attach an iron latch to a brass patchbox? I'm working on my first build and I can't seem to keep the squared iron pin in the patchbox lid with the old 50/50 solder and flux :cursing: . Any suggestions? I'm trying to get the Lancaster done in time to present it to my father on father's day!

Regards,
Kenny

Well we probaly need more details, but if its coming loose after soldering, then I would look at my metal cleaning process for sure, and roughing the metal slightly at the connection point to give it some bite for the solder to adhere to. I then would suggest you go with silver solder, (at the very least the 4% silver solder) much stronger than the 50/50 stuff!

I am no expert here but if you can mechanically fasten (such as riveting) the pin as well, it will give you a much stronger connection point in addition to solder it as well. :hmm:

Davy

 

[Vaino]

I just drill a 1/16" hole in the lid and take a large nail and file a 1/16" dia. w/ a sharp shoulder in the drill press. Ctsk the hole in the lid and peen the nail and file flush. Never needed solder because after peening, the latch was very tight......Fred

 

[flashpanner]

Echo Davy. I have cleaned iron with abrasive flappe wheel and done the 50/50 acid core solder approach. It adhered ok but the solder was too soft. I then cleaned it up and did the silver solder. Much better result. The brass always solders the easiest, it is the iron tha is hard to get a good bond to.
One other thought is to braze/tin the iron piece first and then do the 50/50 solder. Done that, works great!

 

[MSW]

I had (for reasons of geometry which aren't relevant to this question) to attach a piece of brass to the inside of a lock. This brass filled in the space between the lock and the barrel. I tried with the "regular" solder (i.e. the same stuff i use to sweat joints for copper pipe). No- go. I contacted a sheet metal and roofing outfit, and they gave me a bit of what i think was nitric acid. They were very careful to give me dire warnings about you didn't get this here, and it has to go in a glass container... that worked much better than the usual flux, the solder took and everything was cool. If you can gind some (you only need enouth to coat the end of a pipecleaner), it might be worth a try.

Good luck!

MSW

 

[Zonie]

IMO, almost any acid will help clean and etch the surface which will aid soldering.
As for fluxes for steel parts, use one which contains Zink Chloride or Ammonium Chloride, preferably both.
Rosin fluxed solder is for copper wireing and will not work on steel parts.

It is always best to "tin" the steel part where you want the solder to be.
This envolves cleaning, fluxing and applying a very thin coat of solder to the surface. While the solder is still fluid, use a wire brush or a clean, thick rag to wipe/brush off the excess solder. When your done, you should see a nice silver colored surface on the steel.

 

[Kuckus]

Thanks guys! I'll give it another shot in the next few evenings. Long days at work do not make for an attentive student .