I am lining up parts for this years project. I've looked at the TOW's single set triggers with intrigue over the years but have never seen one. Any experienced comments would be welcomed.
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Single set triggers
- Thread starter Tom A Hawk
- Start date
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Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
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I did my last build with one. It was a double action single set trigger. The one they sold me was a Davis trigger. Pay close attention to the profile of the gun you want to build in the trigger plate area, because this TP is really thick there, meaning you won't be able to bend it. to get a bend in this area you will have to file it in. And even if you do (heat and bend it), the bend is going to throw off the set trigger engagement.
The forward throw in setting the trigger necessitated bending in a deeper bow in the trigger guard (to allow for the forward sweep in setting the trigger) than was typical for the original style. A small thing that you would have to be really looking for to see.
This thing is pretty tall so to get it down you will want to file down the blades as thin as possible
The internal assembly is 3 different blades hung on one hinge pin. With mine the holes were larger than the hinge pin, so it created a trigger with a lot of side to side play, or rattle. I HATe rattly triggers! To solve for that I went and bought a numbered wire bit and drilled out both the hinge pin hole AND the 3 blade holes. Then I broke off the drill bit and used the shank as my hinge pin.
In using it, it seems to work pretty well, and is a pretty cool feature, but it was a LOT of work that in the end I really don't think was worth all the effort. If I were to do another gun with a single set trigger, I would opt for a plain single set trigger rather than the double action one. Since almost all of my shooting is at paper of other inanimate targets, I rarely shoot the gun in the non set position, so that feature is of limited worth (to me).
The forward throw in setting the trigger necessitated bending in a deeper bow in the trigger guard (to allow for the forward sweep in setting the trigger) than was typical for the original style. A small thing that you would have to be really looking for to see.
This thing is pretty tall so to get it down you will want to file down the blades as thin as possible
The internal assembly is 3 different blades hung on one hinge pin. With mine the holes were larger than the hinge pin, so it created a trigger with a lot of side to side play, or rattle. I HATe rattly triggers! To solve for that I went and bought a numbered wire bit and drilled out both the hinge pin hole AND the 3 blade holes. Then I broke off the drill bit and used the shank as my hinge pin.
In using it, it seems to work pretty well, and is a pretty cool feature, but it was a LOT of work that in the end I really don't think was worth all the effort. If I were to do another gun with a single set trigger, I would opt for a plain single set trigger rather than the double action one. Since almost all of my shooting is at paper of other inanimate targets, I rarely shoot the gun in the non set position, so that feature is of limited worth (to me).
I have one on a falling block rifle that I absolutely love. The good ones are expensive and as demonstrated above a real PITA! to get sorted out. Once there however, works fantastic.
RM
RM
The Colonel has it right. Set triggers are really nice if they fit and work correctly. However, I have the single trigger pull on my 45 caplock at 36 oz. It works fine for both benchrest and offhand shooting because it's very consistant with no creep. The set triggers on my Kibler work perfectly but I can shoot one rifle as well (or as poorly depending on the day!) as the other.
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
The first rifle I built has a Davis double action set trigger. It was a steep learning curve for a first timer as how to modify it correctly, but it turned out excellent. Without setting it's at 3 lbs, set 8 oz. I don't think I would want a single set unless strictly a bench gun.
Scota@4570
54 Cal.
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I really wanted to put a single set trigger on a target pistol. I bought and sent back two different triggers. The first one was made of rough cast parts the were sloppily fit together. The trigger was floppy. The second one was from a custom maker. The parts were well fit and and finished. I sent it back too. It required that the trigger be set to allow the hammer to be cocked. I consider that to be an accidental discharger waiting to happen.
I got a second example of the custom maker trigger in a trade deal. Taking it apart and studying it, then reassembling was all it took to make it stop working right. The thing is extremely fickle.
I then put serious planning into making my own double acting single set trigger. I made a large scale wooden model of a working single set double acting trigger. I am sure that after lots of shop time I could make a good one. I decided not to proceed.
But why? A properly set up regular trigger with a quality lock can easily give a 3# crisp trigger pull. IT is safe too. It operated in a way that regular shooters understand. A good example of weird operating procedure causing problems is the TC patriot. I have seen several accidental discharges with that gun. TC chose to swap the position of the set and firing triggers on that gun. People forget, and Boom! Someday my guns will go to my son or be sold to other shooters. I never make unsafe guns because of that. I do not want anyone to be hurt or killed with something I made because I made it unsafe.
I realize that such triggers are used successfully by some shooters. It can be done. I am not saying it can not. It is an extremely specialized area.
I got a second example of the custom maker trigger in a trade deal. Taking it apart and studying it, then reassembling was all it took to make it stop working right. The thing is extremely fickle.
I then put serious planning into making my own double acting single set trigger. I made a large scale wooden model of a working single set double acting trigger. I am sure that after lots of shop time I could make a good one. I decided not to proceed.
But why? A properly set up regular trigger with a quality lock can easily give a 3# crisp trigger pull. IT is safe too. It operated in a way that regular shooters understand. A good example of weird operating procedure causing problems is the TC patriot. I have seen several accidental discharges with that gun. TC chose to swap the position of the set and firing triggers on that gun. People forget, and Boom! Someday my guns will go to my son or be sold to other shooters. I never make unsafe guns because of that. I do not want anyone to be hurt or killed with something I made because I made it unsafe.
I realize that such triggers are used successfully by some shooters. It can be done. I am not saying it can not. It is an extremely specialized area.
Brokennock
Cannon
I have two guns with single set triggers.
One on an unmentionable CZ rifle and the other on a crappy caplock rifle, the only good thing about that rifle is the great trigger. But, I doubt the one in the caplock is from T.O.W.
Aside from a perfectly tuned standard single trigger, and I do mean perfectly, the single set is my absolute favorite trigger set up for a rifle.
One on an unmentionable CZ rifle and the other on a crappy caplock rifle, the only good thing about that rifle is the great trigger. But, I doubt the one in the caplock is from T.O.W.
Aside from a perfectly tuned standard single trigger, and I do mean perfectly, the single set is my absolute favorite trigger set up for a rifle.
The only guns I have with single set triggers are a set of dueling pistols with I really don't use that often. They will fire without setting which I like better. It just seems odd to me to have to push forward on a trigger to set it.
Liston Rice (www.buckridgeflintlocks.com/shop) makes a really nice single set trigger. I've used these on several rifles. With some careful filing, these can be set up so that you can cock the lock before setting the trigger.
beardedhorse
Pilgrim
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Cain used to make a roller bearing single trigger. The Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifle also had a roller single set trigger. Don't recall if these were single or double phase. The Hamilton/ Burr dueling pistols by Wogdon of England had excellent single set double phase triggers and reproductions were sold by Franklin Mint possibly commemorating the bi-centennial of the duel. I have a single set trigger adapted from an English sporting non set trigger I got in trade from Ron Long but it has a pretty weak action on the hair triggers blade. The L & R or L. C. Rice rifle trigger with long bar and the head of an antlered buck stamped on it is pretty thick and which require a deeper lock and wrist area. Got it from Track of the Wolf. It is a double phase single set trigger. Will inlet on a scrap piece of pine with the lock to design a blueprint for a John Newcomer ( sp ?) rifle that has English fowler butt plate and trigger guard.
I have used a few single set triggers over the years. The last one I used was a L&R single set. I bought it very soon after they started producing that model. I was very unhappy with it. I had to go into it and do some very careful shimming and adjusting before it was acceptable. This was on one of my competition pistols that I use. I stopped by the L&R booth at Friendship and complained about the trigger, they told me they have changed the design somewhat and it is now much improved.
It does work though, I set a new record for the Benchrest Pistol Aggregate with the trigger on that pistol this year at Friendship. 100 yards with a pistol is challenging and fun!
It does work though, I set a new record for the Benchrest Pistol Aggregate with the trigger on that pistol this year at Friendship. 100 yards with a pistol is challenging and fun!
I've had them on a couple rifles. Didn't really care for them, as I could always detect a bit of creep before the let off. A properly hung single trigger is better, IMHO.
