Seized nipple, any removal tricks?

[Ben Meyer]

My son just bought a Navy Arms, Antonio Zoli built .58 cal Zouave rifle. It has an AC date code; he thinks it's a 1973 gun. Its percussion nipple will not come out! It's the skinny one; the gun came with the larger one for musket caps too. So far, a nipple wrench and PB Blaster and a Vise Grips hasn't gotten it to budge. Any removal tips or tricks? I was thinking a long handle 1/4" crescent wrench might provide better leverage. Thoughts? We dont care if the nipple gets ruined we just want it out.

I've battled frozen bolts before. Just not small ones on guns. Torch, hammer, impact wrench, and breaker bar dont seem to be options. Would heating it with a blowtorch be a terrible idea? Help!

 

[Mark Herman]

You might try removing the barrel from the rifle and soak it in a can of penetrating oil for a couple of days. Baring that, as long as you know it's unloaded, try heating it up and try to remove it. Worst case would be to break it off, drill it out and re thread to the next size nipple.

 

[curator]

Do what Mark Herman suggests using Kroil penetrating oil. Find a 1/4" square socket that fits the nipple and use that instead of vice grips. Apply heat to the breech area where the nipple screws in with a small propane torch and let it cool a few times before really cranking on the nipple wrench. Once you get it out be sure to always treat the niple threads with anti sieze compound brfore replacing it.

 

[Ben Meyer]

I have a handheld blowtorch as well as an electric heat gun. Will use of either screw up the bluing?

 

[Grenadier1758]

After soaking for a couple of days and you have that 1/4" square socket wrench, put the wrench on the nipple and using a small ball peen hammer, tap the top directly above the nipple, then tap the end of the breaker bar. The mild impact often breaks the threads loose. Give Kroil some time to work.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I've had good results using Kano Kroil penetrating oil.

 

[SDSmlf]

Once soaked in penetrating, and if you can find a socket that fits the nipple, a hand held drill with an impact setting should remove it.

 

[Ben Meyer]

Problem solved. Got it off.

Hours of repeated spraying(PB Blaster, then that new WD40 Specialist $10/can rust penetrating spray), some hammer tapping and a 1/4" crescent wrench, it finally gave up the fight. Thanks, guys!

 

[Ben Meyer]

He plans on using the larger musket cap nipple. The one we removed is FUBAR. That said, does anyone know the size/thread/diameter of the nippkes? We'll be buying some extra/new ones.

 

[Mark Herman]

Contact Mike Eder at Flintlocks Inc. He will know what you need and probably have them in stock.

 

[bang]

My Zouave is M8 x 1.25. Track of Wolf has great selection with real good application descriptions.

 

[Ben Meyer]

I know Mike. Ill do that, thx

Contact Mike Eder at Flintlocks Inc. He will know what you need and probably have them in stock.

 

[Ben Meyer]

I saw the description. Are Euroarms and Navy Arms related/same thing? I kinda know how importers work. Again, this gun is a Zoli, Italian build.

My Zouave is M8 x 1.25. Track of Wolf has great selection with real good application descriptions.

 

[Zonie]

Sometimes, tightening a stuck part just to the point that it starts to move will break loose stuck threads. Once it starts to move, it can then be easily unscrewed.
I know it seems contrary to what logic would suggest, but it often works.

 

[bang]

I saw the description. Are Euroarms and Navy Arms related/same thing? I kinda know how importers work. Again, this gun is a Zoli, Italian build.

Mine is an Italian built too. It's a Remington Ranson Zouave Italia Spa.
Measure the bore before getting projectiles. Mine was a hair under. Had to go with .562 PRB and .575 mini. The mini is a thumb press in fit. The .578 would go but was vey difficult to get started and required too much pressure to start. It rammed smooth enough but the fit was no addition to accuracy and just a PITA. You could down size the .578s but you will wind up at .575 for best fit anyway. I shoot mine with #11s mainly because I have a bunch and the musket caps are not readily available here. Only issue with mine I have to make sure to seat the primer because the hammer spring doesn't seem to throw the hammer as hard as my other rifles. If I remember correctly 2f is the considered but I use 3f to insure powder gets in flash channel to make sure the heat of the #11s gets to it better.
60gns is the military recommended powder load for PRB or mini. May have to adjust load a bit for mini to get proper skirt expansion.
I got the sniper sight for mine. Makes it easier for my eyes. The 3 leaf sight on mine shoots right at 6 inches low at 25 yards climbing to 100 yards. Then 200, then 300. Figure that will hold truer for a PRB than a mini.

 

[tallpine]

I just replaced the nipple on my Antonio Zoli Zouave. It is 5/16 -24 thread for a #11 cap. Made by Treso, part number 11-50-51.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The threads on your nipple should still be able to be measured if you take the nipple to a hardware store with one of the thread measuring fixtures. Some of the metric threads are very close to the SAE threads.

 

[bang]

The 5/16 can be easily mistook for an 8mm and visa versa. A 5/16 in an 8mm will be wobbly before mismatchthread pitch binds up. 8mm in 5/16 will be snug from the start. I would check the threads on the gun itself.

 

[tallpine]

I agree, I always use a thread pitch gauge when in doubt about nipples or screws.

 

[Melnic]

FYI,
I know you got it off as you said, but In addition to the penetrating oil and kroil temperature cycling Heat it up, let it cool can help to remove the very stubborn stuck threaded items. Ive used heat guns, ovens, followed by cold spray or ice on the inner threaded item. You can also heat up the threaded item to try to expand it say with a soldering gun, then hit with some ice. Just be careful you are not getting into annealing,normalizing, hardening or tempering. I totally avoid blow torches or anything that would get things red hot.