Rust...

[IanH]

I use actual, real, API group IV PAO full synthetic engine oil (not the fake stuff that most "synthetics" are due to hydrotreatment and loads of viscosity midifiers and pour point depressants that legally qualify to market as synthetics). It takes acetone to get it all out but I just run a couple of dry patches and load up because the residue is a non-issue.

 

[Iron Jim Rackham]

I was an advocate of olive oil for 50 years, on the mistaken premise that modern rust preventing oils like Barricade would turn into tar during the next shooting session. Bah! Humbug! I was hoodwinked for 5 decades. (Serves me right for blithely accepting what experienced muzzleloaders preached.) I started using Barricade a few years ago and haven't seen rust since. I live in Dixie. I shiver when it's under 90. My skin itches if it's not humid. I'm a 4 H kinda guy. Hazy, hot and humid make me happy. Get a good buy on Barricade and say goodbye to rust.

 

[1971fx]

The official rule

 

[XVIIc Wheelock]

Corrosion Technologies is well known in the aviation industry for their product Corrosion X; they also have a product called "Bore Cleaner" which is approved for black powder firearms. I use this product as a followup to initial room temp water flush....amazing what comes out on your patch! You can Google product and decide for yourself.

 

[Scota@4570]

The official rule

Don't laugh. GI bore cleaner, the old white stuff for corrosive primers, is excellent. I bought a bunch of it a long time ago. It served me well for many years. Ballistol moose milk it about the same.

 

[Mad L]

Bear Grease from Crazy Crow. I live in Michigan and the gun is stored in my nice and cool basement so humidity isn't an issue. I'm gonna order some Ballistol right now to use moving forward.

Bear Grease from Crazy Crow??
I don't see such on their sight today, are you sure it wasn't sold as a leather or boot oil?

Get the Ballistol and ignore those who complain about it. I dont even water it down, but I don't use it as final 'oil' after cleaning, I prefer Barricade or even Hopps #9 if just storing from shoot to shoot.

If you do want to use Bear Oil then find the Real stuff, should be thin and honey to near clear. I also find the stuff sold for 'Raw hide drums' is more a "grease" then good "oil", works for a lube but not well for oiling a firearm.

*tip: I find mixing a bit of Real bear oil with TOW's 'mink oil' to make a really good patch lube.

As for "Rust": I have only seen it ONCE, I stopped using hot water and have never seen it again...but I live in Very Low humidity so my conditions are different then yours.

 

[lester harris]

Old Army Rule shoot one day clean the next three days.

 

[#blackpowderbill]

Those that use petrol based oils in their black powder FIREARMS are going down the wrong path.

Now that's pure horse hockey!
You're heavenly liquid Ballistol is petrol based mineral oil.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Ballistol turns brown and will scare the daylights out of you. I have since returned to water after trying some BP solvents. They work ok but nothing cleans like water. Flush real good with alcohol to displace water, patch until dry and then lube it up.

 

[#blackpowderbill]

A little over a week ago I took my SMR out for a shoot and cleaned it thoroughly. I probably ran 30 patches down it until all I was getting on the swabs was some really light color which I thought just to be some graphite per a video I seen on Black Powder TV. So anyways this morning I'm on here reading a few posts and decide to run some bear grease down the barrel and I come back with rust. Is this a major issue? How can I prevent this and get in front of it now? Included are pics of a couple patches.

Clean your rifle better next time.
A good water rinse and few drops a good dish soap. Gunk engine cleaner,(my favorite ); if you have some laying around.
That will break up the fouling or grease if you use a grease lube.
The water will so help neutralize and dilute the black powder residue and caustic properties.

Then give it a good squirt with some type of water displacing oil.

Dry dry dry

Then use the best synthetic or petroleum based preservative lubrication you can buy.

You spend $2,000 on a muzzleloader with modern steel. Why do you want to use some hokey concoction?

 

[Mad L]

No rust here, just checked, not even the ones I haven't fired (or cleaned) in over a year. No petroleum and very little water used: rifles, pistols, revolvers all the same - no rust here. Not even the two I was 'gifted' full of rust when I first got them - No Rust inside or out.

1) a little water
2) commercial bore cleaner
3) Ballistol
4) Butch's Bore Shine (to wipe out Ballistol)
5) Barricade oil or Hopps
....depending on how much shot
About a dozen patches and 6 or so Q-tips.

I have a couple more in my arsenal for heavy shooting days:
1) Shenandoah Valley Lube/Cleaner before leaving the range (two soaked patches, leave wet untill I clean).
2) Hemp tow if I need to 'scrub' any stubborn spots.

Never used Windex, wiper fluid, motor oil, Draino, boiling water, harsh detergents, dishwashers, vacuums, steam cleaners, or hypersonic vibrators.

NO RUST, Shiny Barrel all the way down....

 

[olskool]

i know i will be frowned on here, water+steel = rust, i don't put water on my guns! Windex with ammonia melts BP residue off entirely. that is what i use. it may be water based but it does no harm and causes zero rust! then i oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[smo]

I’m in the Barricade camp.
After storing guns in a safe for over 7-8 years without any rusting, I’m convinced it works…
And yes if you wipe the bore with alcohol prior too loading you’ll get a brown patch, but it ain’t rust.

 

[David Veale]

I've been very happy cleaning with denatured alcohol. Buy a gallon jug at the hardware store. It dissolves both grease and salts (i.e. both ionic and covalent bonded molecules if my chemistry memory serves) -- has never left me with an orange (rust) covered patch! No residue (which soaps can leave) either. I lube with neat's foot oil (not neat's foot "compound", which is mostly mineral oil). Cheapest natural oil I can find which would've been period-correct, and seems to work well.

My understanding is that Ballistol is mineral oil mixed with a little anise oil for scent Hoppe's is mineral oil too. Much cheaper to buy a quart of mineral oil from the drug store; it's the same thing without the distinctive smell. This is what I use for lube/rust protection on my modern unmentionables, and it has worked just as well as the heavily marketed and marked-up equivalents.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I've used about every cleaning method you can think of
It doesn't matter much what you use as long as you get all the crapola out. The last patch with lube on it is what makes the difference. I've been using synthetic motor oil for the past couple years with 100% success.

 

[Banjoman]

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again.

step 1: shoot the muzzleloader

step 2: clean the muzzleloader as best as you can

step 3: shoot the muzzleloader again before it has a chance to rust

You’re welcome

 

[COTNTOP]

I found out that every used rifle would show some degree of rust after cleaning due to sometime in the rifles past it saw neglect. What worked for me was taking a .556 brush wrapped with Scotchbrite then stuff JB in the bore, you will know when the bore smooths out. After that maneuver I clean barrel good with Dawn and water solution. Then I have found out that most all the oils work pretty well after a good polishing. Just cleaned an old Seneca barrel that would shred patches and was almost too rough to try and load. Found out that if patches do not clean up quick after cleaning barrel it needs a good scrubbing.

 

[EC121]

I clean my rifles with whatever is on the bench, but the last step is a wet wipe with G96. and stand the rifle on its muzzle overnight. Never had any rust. The rifles are in the safe for years. Barricade also works well, but I didn't like the coating coming off in the pan after the first shot. It looks like onion skin.

 

[smo]

I've used about every cleaning method you can think of
It doesn't matter much what you use as long as you get all the crapola out. The last patch with lube on it is what makes the difference. I've been using synthetic motor oil for the past couple years with 100% success.

If I’m not mistaken Tip always used & recommended 30 HD motor oil.
He even wiped down the wood with it..

 

[Red Owl]

Well, mention has been made of running a patch with rubbing alcohol in the bore to remove oils prior to a day's shooting. Good advice. This brown "tar"- I agree about impossible to get out.