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Removing nipples

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Joined
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Does anyone not remove their nipples (for cap and ball revolvers) during cleaning? I remove the nipples maybe about after 5 or so shooting sessions. I have never had problems. Does anyone else not remove their nipples every time they clean?
 
I generally use Ampco nipples and anti-seize and leave the nipples in till they need replacement or a need arises. I don't overtighten and have never had a problem removing them once I've gotten the factory ones out. I clean the cylinder under water with Dawn and as hot as I can stand it. I use short pieces of good quality pipe cleaner on the cap end and clean around them with a tooth brush. A tight fitting patch on a jag for the arbor hole and the same for the chambers. Running the patch back and forth in the chambers forces a jet of hot soapy water through the flash hole leaving it clean and open. Shake, wipe dry and immerse in WD-40 for a while then air dry.
 
Have found no need to remove in revolvers for cleaning only change out to new after two match seasons. 8,000+ rounds. I remove them twice a year to prep for the Nat.championships to check touch hole wear is the same. After cleaning all fowling from nipple and hole with Iso Alcohol and Q-tips. oil or grease. Teflon tape wrap 1.5in. folded longways wrapped clockwise around the threads. squeeze fingers over tape and threads until tight. extra careful not to cross threads due to extra tight fit. This technique also works better for loose screws than locktight in some applications...c
 
I do not remove nipples until I am ready to strip and clean internals. This is after several hundred
rounds down the bore. After every use I clean bore with hot wash ,the flash holes and dry out the
gun best I can followed by hair dryer on low heat until no beads exist. I have never used
anti seize and the only seized nipples I have had were from guns I traded for or got used
that were not maintained. To break loose if frozen, I use a cylinder plate in a vice and a ratchet.
If it will not break under a good strong pull, rather than strip it, snap it or bugger the cylinder,
I try penetrating oil and a heat gun on low at the base of the nipple trying to expand the cylinder.
Careful to not damage the finish. Rarely will you break nipple wrenches, drill and easy-out and all that.
 
Every time. I use a little bore butter on the threads during reassembly.
Same here, every time. For cleaning rifles, removal of the nipple aids in the draw of cleaning solution from the bucket up the barrel. I have a can of copper Never-Seize (laying around the shop forever) that I use a little dab on the threads for ease of disassembly after the next range time..
 
I guess I'm a bit paranoid due to previous experience, but I pull the nipples every time and clean with Ballistol and water, then a dab of antiseize when they go back in.

I just got back into the hobby, had a open top years ago. Came home from shooting, we had to take our son to the hospital so I layed the gun on my workbench figuring I'd get to it later that night. Well, one thing led to another, and I forgot the damn thing for over a week. Big lump of corrosion with a gun in it.:mad: I was so mad at myself I gave it to a friend who said he'd try and clean it, never asked for it back.

Heckuva learning experience, and now that I'm single again I can come home and concentrate on getting the guns cleaned and ready for the next time.
 
I too remove the nipples after every shooting session. I use QTips moistened with "Moose Milk" to clean the fouling from the threads and the nipple recess in the cylinder. The first thing I do in the cleaning process is remove the nipples and place them in a small tub to soak in "Moose Milk" while I clean the rest of the revolver. When I reinstall I place a dab of Wonderlube on the threads and this has always worked for me.
 
Snuffy you could have saved that pistol. While quick cleaning is the ideal
I have waited a week and saw no perceptible residual corrosion. That was
in cold weather and with lube covering cylinder chambers. It can look
worse than it is.
 
I remove the nipples for cleaning each time although I accept this is not absolutely necessary. However, after cleaning, drying and reinstalling the nipples(some oil applied to the threads) I visually inspect there is nothing blocking each flash hole by holding the cylinder up to an overhead light. Using this method I have not found it necessary to "snap caps" prior to initial loading on the next shooting session.
 
Snuffy you could have saved that pistol. While quick cleaning is the ideal
I have waited a week and saw no perceptible residual corrosion. That was
in cold weather and with lube covering cylinder chambers. It can look
worse than it is.


Yeah, I know that NOW but back then I was brand new and figured it was a done deal. I think most of the problem was I was just so mad at myself I gave up. Nowadays that pistol would be a project, back then..... live and learn.
 
I do not remove nipples until I am ready to strip and clean internals. This is after several hundred
rounds down the bore. After every use I clean bore with hot wash ,the flash holes and dry out the
gun best I can followed by hair dryer on low heat until no beads exist. I have never used
anti seize and the only seized nipples I have had were from guns I traded for or got used
that were not maintained. To break loose if frozen, I use a cylinder plate in a vice and a ratchet.
If it will not break under a good strong pull, rather than strip it, snap it or bugger the cylinder,
I try penetrating oil and a heat gun on low at the base of the nipple trying to expand the cylinder.
Careful to not damage the finish. Rarely will you break nipple wrenches, drill and easy-out and all that.
Amen
 

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