Honestly i dont know but i sure like seeing that. Smoke and the noise made me smile.but i aint going try that for sure. Lol. I know my limatationsWounder if he was shooting at anything................ and hitting it if he was?
Honestly i dont know but i sure like seeing that. Smoke and the noise made me smile.but i aint going try that for sure. Lol. I know my limatationsWounder if he was shooting at anything................ and hitting it if he was?
I know i cant lol. Might shoot my foot but that gave me goose bumps. Thank u sir. It got my blood to pumping.As far as the above video shows, can you run your cap guns run like that? That may be an answer to the question of this thread !!
I'd give it a whirl.Honestly i dont know but i sure like seeing that. Smoke and the noise made me smile.but i aint going try that for sure. Lol. I know my limatations
I have posted this before..
I have a Uberti 1851 navy I bought a couple of years ago now, right from Dixie gun works, never have had a cap jam or any other issues and shoots really well. I guess some of you have bought lemons or just like modifying things.
I am going to leave it alone and just keep shooting it.
Wounder if he was shooting at anything................ and hitting it if he was?
It very well could be, I do not think so, but.........it shoots so good I don't really care if it is or not.Well there ya go, living proof that there are no problems whatsoever with any of these revolvers.
( just a heads up though, your arbor is short)
It very well could be, I do not think so, but.........it shoots so good I don't really care if it is or not.
I'm going to go with a shield on the Walker but haven't as yet warmed up to the need for a rake ! I've got and idea I want to try out as a different means of shield purchase to the lower hammer arm face not liking the cross cut method. If it pans out I'll share it .
I got the shield on the Walker today. I found a thin strip of brass and copied Mikes design but not liking the cross cut in the hammer purchase I attached mine with low temp silver solder sweat joint.I'm going to go with a shield on the Walker but haven't as yet warmed up to the need for a rake ! I've got and idea I want to try out as a different means of shield purchase to the lower hammer arm face not liking the cross cut method. If it pans out I'll share it .
I really like your idea. If it holds up I might just have to try it. Could you add a photo of the hammer side view withe the shield installed next time you have the gun apart?I got the shield on the Walker today. I found a thin strip of brass and copied Mikes design but not liking the cross cut in the hammer purchase I attached mine with low temp silver solder sweat joint.
I did try to pry up the shield from both corners of the sweat joint and it held solid so we'll see if it does over time and use. It sure seals up the hammer mortise top to bottom with that hook on the end.
I put the action back together and all seems to function smoothly.
I also remembered to take a photo of the sear lift in the full cock notch.
Tomorrow I think I'll go to work on the loading lever latch I worked up on a piece of cardboard.
I'll do the front sight last to get it positioned as best I can with the lever catch tower to balance the profile. This means two dovetail cuts, one over the other in the barrel near the muzzle. I would prefer to offset them a bit but will have to wait and see how it looks.
When figuring out the length to make the shield I noticed where the nose of the trigger was riding up past the half cock notch on the hammer and made the end of the hook/curl stop just slightly above that so there would be no trigger interference. It worked out perfectly as the top of the hook/curl in the shield seals off against the top edge (inside swing radius) of the hammer clearance cut in the lower frame. It should bring out any fouling debris or cap fragments very efficiently if it works as planned.I really like your idea. If it holds up I might just have to try it. Could you add a photo of the hammer side view withe the shield installed next time you have the gun apart?
A tip on not getting to much heat on the hammer components to anneal/soften them is dip the flame unto the sweat joint area in short applications until you see the solder liquefy and suck together. Don't just leave the sweating/soldering joint in the flame continually. I used a regular propane torch which is a bit on the large side but if used as described will work perfectly without over heating the hammer components.When figuring out the length to make the shield I noticed where the nose of the trigger was riding up past the half cock notch on the hammer and made the end of the hook/curl stop just slightly above that so there would be no trigger interference. It worked out perfectly as the top of the hook/curl in the shield seals off against the top edge (inside swing radius) of the hammer clearance cut in the lower frame. It should bring out any fouling debris or cap fragments very efficiently if it works as planned.
On the width I made it just a schosh slimmer than the hammer mortise so as not to impede the hammer swing.
Be careful to not use any more heat than necessary to get a solid sweat joint with low temp silver solder. I used a magnet on the off side of the hammer as a straight edge to keep the shield aligned while sweating it on being held by the hammer spur in a small machinist vice. When I got the joint fluxed with the Force 44 low temp silver solder and sandwiched I put a small section of brass rod on top of the joint so the weight would hold/pull the joint together while being heated.
It wouldn't hurt to add some heat control past to the cock notches and hammer cam to maintain their hardness.
I think this shield of Mike's helps keep most of the cap exhaust following down the inside of the hammer profile and into the lock works out as well as any cap hulls that fall back into it.
I love picking up great ideas from others, it's like finding a gold nugget in a stream bed that you didn't have to work for !
You're catching on, my friend.I got the shield on the Walker today. I found a thin strip of brass and copied Mikes design but not liking the cross cut in the hammer purchase I attached mine with low temp silver solder sweat joint.
I did try to pry up the shield from both corners of the sweat joint and it held solid so we'll see if it does over time and use. It sure seals up the hammer mortise top to bottom with that hook on the end.
I put the action back together and all seems to function smoothly.
I also remembered to take a photo of the sear lift in the full cock notch.
Tomorrow I think I'll go to work on the loading lever latch I worked up on a piece of cardboard.
I'll do the front sight last to get it positioned as best I can with the lever catch tower to balance the profile. This means two dovetail cuts, one over the other in the barrel near the muzzle. I would prefer to offset them a bit but will have to wait and see how it looks.
Yeah, that shield idea of Mike's is a good - un, especially on the Walker that has a hammer mortise as big as Martha Ray's mouth ! I don't expect any one under 70 to get that.You're catching on, my friend.
Yeah, that shield idea of Mike's is a good - un, especially on the Walker that has a hammer mortise as big as Martha Ray's mouth ! I don't expect any one under 70 to get that.
The sweat joint purchase makes it slick to clean up if it holds up as it should and doesn't weaken the hammer with a cross cut through the case that I suspect may eventually cause a fatigue crack!
I heard you say that before about through hardened but don't think that's correct but as I've not cut into one I can't say positively and they are case colored and I believe made of 8620 equivalent case harden-able steel alloy.Well, just noticed this. Glad you like the shield, but to keep harping on a "defect" that doesn't exist is a little comical. You see, there about a 700 revolvers with this mod ( including all mine ) in use. Many of these revolvers are competition revolvers and there's not been one "failure" so . . . These hammers are through hardened btw.
One of the main features of my action shield is that it is easily removable should one want to for cleaning. I don't have any problem with the soldering aspect of yours but, as you mentioned, my way is definitely faster and I don't have to deal with the heating aspect, solder supply, and Flux.
I'll stick with what has worked for the last 6 years.
Mike
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