What is the best way to remove those annoying excess "tags" of metal that are on each and every casted piece? The tags are rather thick, so it would take a person days to cut through just one... and I can't figure out any other way to do it. Thanks :thumbsup:
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Removing excess metal
- Thread starter dkloos
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Black Hand
Cannon
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Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel or a hacksaw with a new blade.
I use a good hacksaw and finish up with a file.
I recommend that the hacksaw blade be one of the High Speed steel ones. They keep their sharpness much better than the common carbon steel blades do.
I recommend that the hacksaw blade be one of the High Speed steel ones. They keep their sharpness much better than the common carbon steel blades do.
WARNING
I have heard several places that there is a potential danger when grinding very soft materials like Brass, Bronze and German Silver with a hard grinding wheel. This type of grinding wheel is found on bench grinders and in Dremel tools.
I urge anyone who is contemplating grinding these non-ferrous materials to follow this link and read it carefully.
WARNING--WARNING
IMO, the "sanding drums" do not have this problem.
I have heard several places that there is a potential danger when grinding very soft materials like Brass, Bronze and German Silver with a hard grinding wheel. This type of grinding wheel is found on bench grinders and in Dremel tools.
I urge anyone who is contemplating grinding these non-ferrous materials to follow this link and read it carefully.
WARNING--WARNING
IMO, the "sanding drums" do not have this problem.
I've done TONS of work with my dremels. I've burnt through 4 of them in 2 years, in fact. Yeah, air tools would be better with that much use, but I just cant get off the dead presidents to buy a air compressor and replace all my electric tools with air tools. Mostly I dont use them on guns and gun parts though... thats a hobby and I want to take my time and use hand tools... I dont own a business or nothin, I jsut tinker ALOT with wood and metal.
I've had many of the grinding stones explode. Hundreds of them paper thin cutting wheels. Sometimes while working aluminum, sometimes on steel.
IMO, it isnt a problem so long as you wear saftey glasses. Usually chunks of them hit me in the face, but they only leave red marks for a few hours... they just dont have the mass to hurt ya, unless you were to get one in the eye.
And in the case of cutting wheels, them fiberglass re-enforced ones work wonders, never had one explode, and you can use the sides of them to grind with, doing that with the other type will lead to instant 'explosion'. They also have the advantage of being a bigger OD when you start... makes it cut through most material quicker cause for each revolution, its got more area. If that makes sense (example, 30 inch tires on your truck with the engine at 2,000 RPM in 5th gear will move you faster than 28" tires at 2k in 5th)
EDIT: However, I can definitly see the concern with larger wheels, like bench grinders and such. That I'd not attemp, a 1/4 of one of them hitting you could get nasty. I'm just talkin 'bout the little dremel stuff.
I've had many of the grinding stones explode. Hundreds of them paper thin cutting wheels. Sometimes while working aluminum, sometimes on steel.
IMO, it isnt a problem so long as you wear saftey glasses. Usually chunks of them hit me in the face, but they only leave red marks for a few hours... they just dont have the mass to hurt ya, unless you were to get one in the eye.
And in the case of cutting wheels, them fiberglass re-enforced ones work wonders, never had one explode, and you can use the sides of them to grind with, doing that with the other type will lead to instant 'explosion'. They also have the advantage of being a bigger OD when you start... makes it cut through most material quicker cause for each revolution, its got more area. If that makes sense (example, 30 inch tires on your truck with the engine at 2,000 RPM in 5th gear will move you faster than 28" tires at 2k in 5th)
EDIT: However, I can definitly see the concern with larger wheels, like bench grinders and such. That I'd not attemp, a 1/4 of one of them hitting you could get nasty. I'm just talkin 'bout the little dremel stuff.
All those power grinders and dremmels have their place, but for building muzzleloaders a good hacksaw and a few sharp files will get the job done just as fast with more control. Most people (myself included) start out wanting to go at it with power tools but the more guns you build the more likely it is you will set aside those power tools in preference for simple hand powered tools.
You can do some things faster with power tools, you can damage or ruin a nice brass trigerguard much more quickly than with a file. Nothing more frustratin than your dremmel tool crawling up out of the side of your perfect lock mortice, or the bench grinder tossing your buttplate across the shop. We've all been there at one time or another.
Forgive my rambling, everybody has got to find their own way and what works for them. But as usual, Zonie's advice is sound.
You can do some things faster with power tools, you can damage or ruin a nice brass trigerguard much more quickly than with a file. Nothing more frustratin than your dremmel tool crawling up out of the side of your perfect lock mortice, or the bench grinder tossing your buttplate across the shop. We've all been there at one time or another.
Forgive my rambling, everybody has got to find their own way and what works for them. But as usual, Zonie's advice is sound.
Roger that on using bench grinder wheels for materials they were not designed for. I've seen the loss of two toes to a chunk of wheel loaded w/ brass shattering, and heard of much worse. Buffing wheels are even more dangerous when used incorrectly, no matter the material.
Bountyhunter
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'Nother vote on the hacksaw with a good blade and a file. But, have the piece that you are cutting very securely fastened in a padded jaw vise so it doesnt wiggle.
I prefer a hack saw, always a new blade for brass, if it dulls up, it will still work good on ferrous metals. Same for files, once used on steel or cast iron, I just forget about ever trying them for brass.
For those who haven't tried it, reverse the hack saw blade teeth for pull. rather than push. For precise hack saw work, you will find much better control. Most mechanics push the saw, a well trained and good machinist will pull it for precision cuts.
For those who haven't tried it, reverse the hack saw blade teeth for pull. rather than push. For precise hack saw work, you will find much better control. Most mechanics push the saw, a well trained and good machinist will pull it for precision cuts.
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