Refinishing beech redux

[BillinOregon]

So let me see if I have this right:
Strip old finish off Italian repro beech musket stock. Apply iron nitrate/aqua fortis. Heat to darken. Finish with Tru-Oil, Permalyn or other such oil.
I've been reading so many old threads on beech stocks that I have become even more confused than usual ...

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Curious how you determined it is Beech?

 

[wiscoaster]

If your repro is a Pedersoli, the stock is usually walnut, isn't it? It's Traditions that usually uses beech, and their source is Spanish? More details might be helpful. Not sure that finish process works too well on beech, anyway. Watching thread for more comment from those who have "been there and done that". Thanks....

 

[FlinterNick]

So let me see if I have this right:
Strip old finish off Italian repro beech musket stock. Apply iron nitrate/aqua fortis. Heat to darken. Finish with Tru-Oil, Permalyn or other such oil.
I've been reading so many old threads on beech stocks that I have become even more confused than usual ...

Depends on the beech, North American is tough to work on, European is a little better.

I woudln’t use aqua fortis on any kind of beech.

Original beech stocks used on military arms were often stained very dark, almost black with a varnish that included chimney soot.

Beech tends to be tight grained and the end end grain is very tough to stain evenly, i would steam the wood between coats of stain, to get better absorption, allow it to air dry and work it back with scotch brite pad around medium, this will help burnish the wood.

You don’t want to over sand beech beyond 180 grit, it will close up the grain.

Varnish works best on beech. I would use permalyn sealer and varnish.

If you want to use an oil, i would recommend oil with a reducer such as turpentine, very thin to medium to heavy. But not 100% oil.

 

[BillinOregon]

This is an older Zoli Zouave, blonde. It is beech.

 

[MAC1967]

I recently reworked a Jukar pistol that was beech and used Feibing's leather dye . . LMF stain would also work well. It turned out very nicely. I reworked a CVA derringer during COVID and used LMF stain. Those alcohol-based stains are what I'd recommend for Beech. Either stains are not very expensive and a small bottle goes a long way.

 

[reddogge]

Here's a WW2 era military rifle European beech stock. It is the color of most of them I've seen.

 

[BillinOregon]

Mac, I have some Homer Dangler stain and some of the Feibings alcohol-based leather stains on hand. Was curious to try aqua fortis, but will probably use what I have.

 

[MAC1967]

Mac, I have some Homer Dangler stain and some of the Feibings alcohol-based leather stains on hand. Was curious to try aqua fortis, but will probably use what I have.

I love Aqua Fortis . . I think it is super cool how it works and it pops Maple better than so many other options . . I just don't know what it would do to beech. I know AF does strange things on some woods. Others here may weigh in and say use AF. I'd love to see pictures of AF on beech. . . Probably no harm in trying it . . . but Homer Dangler or Feibings would certainly work well.

 

[FlinterNick]

I love Aqua Fortis . . I think it is super cool how it works and it pops Maple better than so many other options . . I just don't know what it would do to beech. I know AF does strange things on some woods. Others here may weigh in and say use AF. I'd love to see pictures of AF on beech. . . Probably no harm in trying it . . . but Homer Dangler or Feibings would certainly work well.

I’ve used nitric acid on beech knife handles, it didn’t come out well, very dark spots and light rings, just not to my liking. Same with birch.

Personally i woudlnt use it on beech, beech looks much better with a dark walnut stain.

 

[olskool]

Here's a WW2 era military rifle European beech stock. It is the color of most of them I've seen.

View attachment 269645

oh yes, the Swiss K11 one of the most accurate military rifles in the world that never saw battle. i love the pull push bolt,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Fifty Four]

I used aquafortis on a Traditions kit beech "Kentucky" stock. Turned the wood dark brown when oiled, came out really nice. Alcohol-based stains work great on beech, too.

 

[reddogge]

oh yes, the Swiss K11 one of the most accurate military rifles in the world that never saw battle. i love the pull push bolt,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

That's actually a K31, the later WW2 one. I had two of them and reloaded for them and you are right, very accurate. I did kill a deer with that rifle though. The scout scope mount just clamped onto the normal sight mount so no drilling.

 

[olskool]

That's actually a K31, the later WW2 one. I had two of them and reloaded for them and you are right, very accurate. I did kill a deer with that rifle though. The scout scope mount just clamped onto the normal sight mount so no drilling.

sorry, i was half asleep when i typed that LOL, i know, i have had them before. do you reload for it? i am a 50 year plus handloader, i have some brass and factory ammo i am not using, if you are interested.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

This is an older Zoli Zouave, blonde. It is beech.

Just because it's blonde doesn't mean it's Beech. Many of the Antonio Zoli built Zouaves from the 1970's were stocked with a Lacewood (probably a type of European Sycamore) which have "speckles" mingled throughout the grain. They will show prominently after staining & let you better judge what it is. Regardless, if it is Beech, Birch, or Lacewood, it's best to use a leather dye or alcohol based wood stain. Here's a pic of an Antonio Zoli built "Buffalo Hunter" based on the Zouave from that era. Stained with Fiebling's leather dye the Speckles or Flecks of the Lacewood contrast nicely with the Medium Brown stain. Post pics when your done finishing!

 

[reddogge]

I did reload for the two of them but I sold all of my military and Winchester collectible collection this year. I sold the reloading stuff for rifles too but kept the two shotgun presses. Gettin' old and can't keep them forever.

 

[Cvkotvkse]

So let me see if I have this right:
Strip old finish off Italian repro beech musket stock. Apply iron nitrate/aqua fortis. Heat to darken. Finish with Tru-Oil, Permalyn or other such oil.
I've been reading so many old threads on beech stocks that I have become even more confused than usual ...

Worked great for me on my first BP gun 35 years ago, a mid-'80's CVA St. Louis Hawken. Didn't like the orange "maple" finish... got recipe from friend who restored muzzleloaders down at Museum of Florida History. 3 or 4 applications of the iron nitrate, a hot stove burner, then finished w/ hot linseed oil w/ ground soot/lampblack mixed in. Got that deep chocolate found-in-the-attic color I was used to seeing on old guns. A few antique dome-head brass tacks, and guys at the check station started asking why I was hunting with a museum specimen... at least until they saw the CVA adjustable rear site.
Have always liked how it turned out...
I think I posted some pics of it on here a good while back.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

Here's a WW2 era military rifle European beech stock. It is the color of most of them I've seen.

View attachment 269645

K31 is milsurp perfection.

 

[reddogge]

We used to buy them for $100 or less and now they sell upwards of $600.

 

[springfield art]

Here's a WW2 era military rifle European beech stock. It is the color of most of them I've seen.

View attachment 269645

You've given it to us STRAIGHT!