Ramrod drift, minimum thickness of lower web

[HighUintas]

Hi all, I just drilled my ramrod hole and I either didn't have my channel exactly lined up right or I had a little bit of drift, and the hole ended up drifting down toward the belly of the stock. I drilled a hole in the barrel channel near the breach and then part way between the breach and the entry pipe and it looks like I will have about 0.80-0.100" thick wood for the outer web between the breach and part way to the entry pipe.

Should I plug that hole and redrill it, or would that amount of wood in the belly be strong enough to proceed as is?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

If the drill went down, the web should have increased in thickness. I am having trouble understanding that statement. Consider these questions before doing anything: Can you still shape your stock to the desired shape? Will you have room for the forward lock screw even if thinned?
Plugging and starting over will be a can of worms in my opinion. I would not worry about strength!
Larry

 

[Kansas Jake]

I have a forward lock screw with a notch for clearance due to a similar issue. I just have to clock that screw so the ramrod fits.

 

[martin9]

by "outer web" do you mean the wood your hand rests on on the forestock?

 

[HighUintas]

There will only be a single lock bolt, no forward lock bolt.

And by lower web, yes I mean the wood on the forearm between my hand and the RR hole.

So, rather than my targeted 3/16" web and 1/8" thick outer wood layer, my web is about 0.265" and the outer wood layer is thinner at 0.80-0.100".

I'll still be able to get close to having my planned stock shape/height

 

[martin9]

I'd use your feeler holes and mark the ramrod path in heavy pencil on the bottom of the stock. This is just to make sure you don't rasp it when shaping the forestock. That pencil mark would be the last thing I removed/sanded off prior for it being ready to finish. I've tried to plug and redrill and it didn't work for me. I've asked other builders and they didn't have much luck with it either. The drill always wants to follow the original holes path.

 

[rchas]

Wandering drills happen often, even with the old master smiths. If the ramrod hole breaks through the forearm, you can do what they did, and inlet a long brass plate to cover the hole and weak area. I have seen several old rifles with this repair, and it doesn't look bad at all

 

[ekettenburg]

1/16" is fine for that area. Very typical for lehigh rifles although of course you'll see old antiques with the forearm worn through. What I would recommend is to lay out where your triggerguard is going to go, mark out roughly the forward finial of the guard, and drill a feeler hole into the channel from somewhere about the center of the forward finial - in other words an inspection hole from the outside of the forearm, in. This will allow you to keep your eye on the wood thickness of the forearm as you shape it down so hopefully you won't have an 'oh manure' moment. Most likely your forward guard inletting is going to cut into the rammer hole and this is not a problem (more common than you think on originals) as long as you cut carefully so you don't get breakouts in the thinnest portion. You want to slice and cut, not break. Sharp sharp sharp chisels and knife.