• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Powder ignition ?'s

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mnbearbaiter

40 Cal.
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
400
Reaction score
15
Ive been given alot of flack lately about using musket caps with Triple7 and Pyrodex RS in my muzzleloading rifles and shotguns! I must say, when i got into traditional rifles i keep reading how the hotter powders do/have issues with ignition via standard #11 caps! To avoid any of this on my end i just assumed hotter was better and outfitted my Renegade with musket cap nipples and have yet to have any hangfires, etc! That being said, i was going to use musket caps with Pyrodex RS in my 10ga Pedersoli double i recently completed! Ive been told that its not needed, or that the musket caps are too hot for the Pyrodex RS and that the hotter ignition source could blow my patterns! Is there any truth to this or is it up to me to just find out? Maybe im just single minded, and in fact the musket caps probably are helpful in igniting Triple7 but not needed with Pyrodex? I have a bunch of Winchester Magnum BP #11 caps and several T/C Hot Shot nipples that i could maybe use instead as they fit the Pedersoli guns, what do you guys think? Id like to squash this issue so i can in turn think before i post regarding this issue :surrender:
 
mnbearbaiter said:
i keep reading how the hotter powders do/have issues with ignition via standard #11 caps! To avoid any of this on my end i just assumed hotter was better and outfitted my Renegade with musket cap nipples and have yet to have any hangfires, etc!
That's a myth, an old wives tale.(period)

i was going to use musket caps with Pyrodex RS in my 10ga Pedersoli double i recently completed! Ive been told that its not needed,
True.

or that the musket caps are too hot for the Pyrodex RS and that the hotter ignition source could blow my patterns!
Another myth, you adjust your group/pattern with the charge/wadding and shot wieght variable.

FWIW, Musket caps are not "hotter" they just have more volume,,and more garbage,,

I shoot T7 and Swiss (hot powders), I use #11 RWS and CCI mag caps on T/C, Investarms, Traditions and CVA rifles and shotguns.
I do not have ignition issues.
When I began this hobby years back I had the same misconception
"Oooo! Musket Caps!" :td:
They belong on Muskets.
 
Just your wallet,
and credibility when trying to explain to anyone with experiance how musket caps help eliminate ignition problems because they're hotter, :idunno:

In almost every case of ingition trouble or hang fire it's a situation of a fouled ignition channel or lock trouble.

With a clean gun and a good lock, uncomprimised caps and powder a #11 cap will ignite the charge in the rifles a #11 cap is designed to be used in.

Beyond that, many times with T/C and Lyman guns (and others) when changing over to a musket nipple the hammer won't center properly over the cap and nipple.
Guy's will bend or modify the hammer to fit the musket caps
 
One of my two TC Hawkens, the .45, is fitted with a musket cap nipple. I did it originally because I was getting hangfires/misfires. The bolster was gunked up. I have since been able to clear the bolster. So, it is likely no longer needed. However, I keep using them because I like the convenience of musket caps. They are easier to grab with large fingers; especially when it is cold, and after firing, it is easier to remove the fired cap, because it does not get stuck in the hammer recess.

It may be a style faux pas, but I like them.
 
I like them also, ive never tried too hard to justify that they cure hangfires, etc but i know for a fact that ive never had one when using musket caps! I own a T/C gun, and have never had a problem with angle of the hammer etc when it comes to using them! After all that, i must admit that ive never used #11 caps, i went right to Triple7 ffg and outfitted my guns with musket cap nipples! Ive done alot of cold weather hunting, etc in northern MN hunting with fellow traditionalists who have had hangfires after sitting on stand for many hours waiting for a deer to come by only to pull the trigger and nothing...it was this experience that made me think i had it licked with the musket caps!
 
I took this of my little pistol with a CCI No. 11
standard cap only. I don't really need anymore.

Untitled111_filtered.jpg
 
Given a load that shoots good patterns with Black Powder AND standard #11 caps, if you use Musket caps, you risk the more powerful gases, pushing the wads and shot load forward of the powder, before the power has a chance to burn enough to produce enough gas to NOT prevent a slight stall in the movement of the load out the barrel. The pressure behind the wads and shot load will vary more, and this will affect MV, too.

The larger the bore of your shotgun the shorter the column of a given powder charge will be. The shorter the column, the easier it is for the HOT musket caps to push those wads forward, as the flame fires right thru the powder.

If you use substitute powders, that require a higher ignition temperature than Black Powder[Pyrodex, then Triple 7, then APP, respectively, in order of higher ignition temperatures] the delay in igniting these powders only exacerbates the problem.

Triple 7 was designed specifically for use in In-line guns, being ignited by modern, shotgun( 209) Primers- not percussion caps. The MAGNUM #11 caps have been found to burn sufficiently hot to ignite this powder in sidelock percussion rifles.

APP was designed specifically for use in straight-walled casings used for CAS matches. It is intended to be ignited by modern pistol and rifle primers, not percussion caps.

Pyrodex was designed to use in traditional Side lock PERCUSSION firearms--NOT for flintlocks! Even Dan Pawlak recommended using a "Booster" charge of 4F priming powder( Black Powder) down the barrel of flintlocks and black powder in the priming pan, to use Pyrodex RS in flintlocks.

Black Powder has been in use for more than 700 years. If there were a better choice of powders to use in Match locks, Wheel locks, or Flintlocks, Don't you think someone else would have figured it out before you were born????

If you want to hunt with scope sights, using a rifle you can reload fast, with very flat trajectory, using non-black powders, and copper jacketed bullets, held in plastic shoes, why are you bothering to shoot a flintlock?

Shooting muzzleloaders the way they were intended to be used is much closer to Traditional Bow and Arrow hunting, where straight, or recurve bows are used, without sights, scopes, trigger releases, etc. Yardage is shorter, and shooters accept those limitations as part of the challenge, and satisfaction of the sport.

The first thing everyone has to accept for themselves is that Traditional muzzleloading is not a sport that appeals to everyone.

No need to feel bad, nor to apologize to anyone. Go find another way to enjoy yourself.

For instance, I Know people who use modern Single Shot rifles when they hunt, to increase the challenge, and force them to pass up marginal shots at game, as they seek that one-shot kill.

I Know others who only hunt with "stick" bows they made, using flint head arrows they made also. In contrast, most of the archers around here use the most sophisticated compound bows and equipment they can buy to hunt deer.

I Know people who varmint hunt with small caliber modern rifles, using scopes that cost more than the guns, and won't shoot at anything less than 300 yards away. Others I know crawl close to their targets, and shoot the same varmints with .22 rimfire handguns. Neither group is interested in how the other group hunts, and would not try it even if offered.

I wish you well, but suggest that you might be much happier in a different shooting sport, as you seem totally unwilling to accept the limitations that come with this sport. You really can't "make a silk purse out of a cow's ear", you know. :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
I hunt with traditional bows, longbows, recurves, and selfbows that you speak of, and ive been hunting with traditional muzzleloaders for over a decade with many harvests to my name!!! Im quite at home with traditional rifles thank you very much! I started this thread to try and avoid causing any ruckus regarding BP subs, as well as to break down the ignition differences and dynamics of certain powders via certain ignition sources (ie musket caps, #11, Mag #11, etc)! The ruckus i tried to avoid was actually just brought on by you :idunno: Not sure where i ever stated that i use a flintlock either, ive only ever shot a flintlock rifle once in my life! A simple "You are going a little overboard with the musket caps, use the #11 caps and T/C Hotshot nipples that you have" would have sufficed :surrender:
 
In the utmost respect for you from the comments you have made in the past, and eventhough Mr. Necchi (who i also have utmost respect for) claims that a hotter ignition source will not jar shot/wad column i will in all fairness pattern the gun properly with #11 caps! Only then will i, in true respect mind you compare patterns ignited by musket caps afterward! You may be right on the shot column issue, as i have heard that with in%^&$ guns a more mild 209 primer sometimes improves accuracy and reduces crud ring fouling! Its with this knowledge that i will be basing your argument off! As i stated for the past few years, i shoot a T/C Renegade 54cal with musket caps and Triple7, Triple7 ultimately has different manners than true BP or Pyrodex, it seems to work well in rifle instances! I will keep that combo in that gun cuz it works well, with my Pedersoli double im always up for suggestions :bow:
 
Everything you have written runs counter to everything I have learned over more than 50 years of shooting and reloading. Paul Matthews wrote a piece only a couple of years ago- I believe in the Single Shot Exchange about finding that the large diameter primer pocket holes in modern .45-70 casings, together with Large Rifle Primers- the Magnums worse-- were pushing the heavy lead alloy bullets out of the casing, or at least forward in their seating, no matter the crimp used. After much study, including using his chronograph, he focxused on bothissues. He found for instance that the original casings used with Black powder during the Army trials back in the 1870s, had holes that were only .062" in diameter, compared to the .090+" Diameter of modern casings. So, he had a company make him a swaging die to use to reduce the diameter of his modern casing's primer holes.

Then, he learned that the original trials used much weaker primers- equivalent to our modern small pistol primers, altho the original primers were designated for rifle use. Small pistol and small rifle primers are the same diameter, but pistol primers are thinner in profile. Paul had a shop make him some washers to allow modern large rifle primer casings to use small pistol primers.He found that his groups not only reduced in size out at 200 and 300 yards, but that the groups stopped Stringing vertically when the small pistol primers, and the small diameter primer hole was used.

He then concluded that if he had known all these things 20 years earlier, when he was still competing as a shooter, No one could have come near his scores. Mr. Matthews has written many books on the .45-70- is called the " Dean of the .45-70"-- and is in his 80s or 90s, now. He still shoots trapdoors, with iron sights, at long range distances.

Oh, he learned that it was after the adoption of some of the early bulk smokeless powders that the casing pockets were enlarged to handle the larger diameter "Large Rifle" primers, and the holes were enlarged to get more flame into the casing to ignite the poor quality powders. Today, with both modern smokeless powders, and with modern made Black powder, We don't need all that power and fire. Its the long range shooters like Matthews, fighting to get all the accuracy from their rifles, who have learned these lessons. The visual clues have always been there: Vertical stringing of groups on targets, and higher SDVs.

All this "more is better" doctrine that is nothing more than sales "HYPE", and this is true today with black powder loads in whatever form they take. Igniters-- whether we call them caps, or primers--- can create the same problems when used in the wrong guns.

I didn't know any of this when I started shooting and reloading the .45-70 cartridge in the late 1950s. If someone had paid me a dollar for each of the things I have "un-learned" that I thought I knew back then, my bank account would be pretty hefty today.

About a year ago, on these forums, Brown
Bear, who lives part of the year on Kodiak Island, Alaska, first mentioned that he was surprised to find that Fg Goex powder was giving him better patterns in his shotguns, than using FFg powder. He is not one to spend a lot of time patterning loads on paper, but his respect for and use of Fg powder has risen.( If I lived on Kodiak Island, I would spend my shooting time shooting game- not paper, TOO! :grin: :bow: )

From the limited published data I have on Fg powder loads in shotguns, I suspect that the slower burning powder is the reason BB is getting better patterns- enough suspicion that I arranged to buy a couple of pounds of Fg powder a week ago so I can do some paper testing when my back problems are fixed.

IMHO, leave the musket caps for musket nipples, on musket rifles, chambered for the .58 cal. hollow based "Minie" bullet, using 45-60 grains of FFg powder. That was what the gun they were designed for, and seems to have worked well in, down thru the ages.

Of course, none of this is worth anything more than what you paid for it, so do as you please, and keep us posted on your successes. :hatsoff:

Please accept my apology for any offense I gave to you. That was not my intent. Two of my best friends, now both dead, refused to have anything to do with Black Powder because they didn't like the smell! They both shot all kinds of guns, both reloaded, and both were champion level Trap shooters. But, I could not get them to shoot either my BP shotgun or rifle even if I loaded it for them. I was thinking of them when I read your posts here. I thought telling you its ok to not like BP, much less use the stuff. I was only hoping to help you avoid some of the frustration that shooters experience when they have a " Missed shot" that they can't explain. :surrender: :hatsoff:
 
Much appreciated :hatsoff: Not to dwell on the musket cap issue, but the reason that i was going to use them is old hat as i started using them in my rifle with Triple7 many years ago and its all ive ever known to be honest! I do have 100's of the #11 Winchester Mag BP caps, they are supposed to be hotter than regular #11 and im sure this was to turn traditional caplock shooters on to Triple7! Would i be ok to use these with my hotshot nipples or should ijust buy standard #11? For the record, if i lived half as far as i do from TOTW id be using real BP for everything! Even then, they are temporarily out of ffg and ffffg Goex! So this put me back to Pyrodex RS! I wouldnt drop down in granulation below ffg for a shotgun either, thats for sure! So after all this, the musket caps in my T/C Renegade with Triple7 really throw nice groups and are easy to clean! Dont require me to swab between patches, etc will be a marriage that i will not break up! I do see how the milder #11 caps would be good in the shotgun along with a milder powder to help keep the patterns integrity and not blow it apart!
 
From what ive gathered, musket caps arent hotter than standard #11 caps, just throw more of the same! Maybe its that little piece of mind that i like about them! If this were true, then how could they potentailly move shot column prior to ignition! Another reason i was going to use them, was that ive read about alot of Pedersoli shooters drilling the factory nipples out a little with some metric drill bit! I figured that with that being a common fix, id have it nailed down with musket caps! Either way, i love hearing suggestions, and love testing things myself! Im thinking im going to start with a common game load to get a good idea of what the gun likes, then try different #11 caps and musket caps to see if pattern suffers/improves/stays the same :surrender:
 
In over 20 years of shooting percussion sidelock rifles, If I want to be sure of good ignition, (no hangfire) my recipe is: Real black powder, use #11 caps. Subs: (Pyrodex, T7, ETC.) Use musket caps. I also always clean my MZ after shooting, as I am very fussy about a clean MZ. A clean MZ, with the above powders/caps, you are in good shape.
 
Sorry I can't say with experience about shotguns. In my MZ shotguns, all I ever used was Goex Black Powder with #11's. Worked fine. Good ignition. If I were to use a sub in my shotgun, I would lean toward using a musket cap. But the only way to know for sure in your MZ, is to try both.
 
Back
Top