Polishing/Finishing a lock

[Kilted Cowboy]

What do y'all use tool wise to finish polish the lock? I have heard sand paper, files, stones. I went on the Gesswein website and they have hundreds of stones to choose from grits and sizes. I would like to know which files and stones are the most useful for this application. Hate buying stuff i will not need or use. Appreciate the feedback

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

What do y'all use tool wise to finish polish the lock? I have heard sand paper, files, stones. I went on the Gesswein website and they have hundreds of stones to choose from grits and sizes. I would like to know which files and stones are the most useful for this application. Hate buying stuff i will not need or use. Appreciate the feedback

My understanding of it is when you are building the lock a variety of files, sandpapers, ect are used.
I think the final finish would be employing the use of various grit of jewelers rouge on a buffing wheel depending on how fine a finish you want
SN

 

[Robby]

Cowboy, There are those that swear by the Gesswein stones and I cannot say because I have never tried them. I use flat smoothing files, careful to tap off residue to prevent galling. then I use wet and dry paper starting at 180 usually, sometimes 150 and ending with 400, sometimes 600 and even 1500, depending on what I am trying to achieve. I take 1-1/2" wide shipping tape and back the paper with it, cut in strips the width of the tape, it makes it last longer, I use it with fingers or fold it over 3/16" rubber casket material depending on the area I'm doing. I also use double backed carpet tape on the back of the paper and lay popsicle sticks on the tape and cut out around them. This has worked for me through quite a few locks.
Robby

 

[Scota4570]

Use a new 3-sided file and wet dry sandpaper. Chalk the file if it wants to pin. Keep an old cartridge case handy to push the pins out of the file. Draw file as much as possible to keep it even and avoid pins

Sandpaper, start at 100 grit and work down to 320. Use reflective lighting to visualize the sandpaper marks and use the next finer grit working at a different angle until the previous grit marks are gone. At the 320 or 400 level blend the surfaces with burgandy scotchbrite. That is it. This is the polishing recipe use by some of the best gun makers and restorers.

Over polishing looks amateurish. If you are going to brown or blue the part a high polish will make it difficult to get a decent finish. For browning a barrel stop at 100 grit, really, no kidding.

Never use a buffing wheel, it will ruin the parts. Buffing wheels have no place in quality gun work. They will dish out holes and ruin crisp edges. Using a buffing wheel will ruin your hard work and parts.

Buffing with polish-o-ray and such is an art. It takes years to learn how to avoid trashing the parts. IT still looks second rate. It is a modern gun factory time saver. IT is not for quality.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I use progressively finer grit sand paper backed up with a file or popsicle stick. If you are going to brown it you may not want too fine of a polish.

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

Thanks Scota4570 and the rest for some solid advice

 

[Robby]

Well Scota, I certainly would take issue with some of your comments.
Robby

 

[Scota4570]

40 years and 100 guns experience have lead me to those methods. Doug Turnbull and Jim Kibler don't over polish. That is why their work looks so good. So, when they tell me something I listen. I am just passing it along.

Certainly it is not the only way. Do whatever you want, it is a hobby and you are supposed to have fun.

 

[Robby]

They are all tools, including the buffing wheel. It's what you end up with that counts. I don't think you listened to them very well. I do do what ever I want and I do have fun, because I'm flexible and not dogmatic in my approach.
Robby

 

[Rifleman1776]

Check out the excellent thread of posts Dave Person put up while he was building my Chambers Little Fella rifle. Don't just check, print out and save. It is a virtual treasure of advice. He covers his technique for locks very well. From the appearance and function of mine, he well knows what he is doing.

 

[rich pierce]

There are places you should never polish on an assembled lock.

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

Rich could you please elaborate on where you should never polish on an assembled lock?
Trying to soak up the knowledge

 

[Scota4570]

You need to take the lock apart to polish it properly. IF you don't you won't be able to reach many areas and grit will get in the bearing surfaces. Sounds like time to buy a mainspring vice.

 

[rich pierce]

Areas I am very careful polishing, or avoid altogether on an assembled lock:

If the pan is detachable, I’m very careful of the mating surfaces. If not, a bad gap appears.

I’m careful of the top of the pan/ frizzen contact area. Otherwise, get a gap between frizzen and pan.

I’m careful of the feet of the bridle, else you may pinch the tumbler.

I’m careful of the tumbler axles and lockplate hole, else get slop.

I’m careful of the sides of the sear, else get slop.

When done polishing the lockplate, clean the screw holes with Q tips. Peel cotton off till it fits.

 

[Kilted Cowboy]

Any preferences in the TOW and Chambers main spring vise? Any other vices or specialty tools needed to disassemble and assemble a Chambers lock?

 

[Eric Krewson]

You need a mainspring vise and a set of screwdrivers that fit the screw heads precisely. I use a pair of vise grips on the frizzen spring, probably lock maintenance blasphemy but it works easily. I do put a piece of leather on the top and bottom of the spring before I clamp down on it.

If you haven't taken a lock apart, lay all the parts out carefully so you can put them back just the way they came out. It is confusing at first but a piece of cake after you do it a few times. Be mindful of the tiny fly ( little black thing) in the tumbler and store it where it can't get away, it will fall out and disappear if you don't pay special attention to it.

This explains it well.



More info;

https://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com/silerlock.html