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Pedersoli lock problem

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toddbro

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So this is my first flintlock, the cabelas blue ridge. I have quite a few cap locks and I must say I'm hooked, love this rifle. Shot it for the first time last week and loved everything about it. So I'm packing everything up to hit the range in the morning and I notice the tumbler screw that holds the cock is missing. It must have fallen off at the range and I didn't notice it. Seems I just can't buy that particular screw anywhere on line, or any Pedersoli parts for that matter, only a whole new L&R lock that I can't afford right now. Any ideas for a quick fix so I can keep shooting this until I figure something out.
 
Mooman76 said:
Take the lock to a good hardware store.

surprisingly, my local hardware store has an astonishing assortment of screws in metric and sae.

it's more than worth a try, and you'll doubtless find something in the hardware store that you didn't even know existed, but now realize that you can't live without!
 
I tried that sight, no dice. It's not the metric size that's a problem, it's the diameter of the head. Maybe a pan head with a small fender washer might work. Just sucks, because I love this rifle, couldn't believe how accurate it was and ignition was flawless. Early doe seasons stars next weekend and really want to take this piece afield!
 
Give Dixie Gun Works a call. I've read that they carry the same rifle under the 'Frontier' name.
 
First check the thread size by taking the lock to the auto or hardware store. Once you know what size it is then look in TOTW online catalog and look for locks with the same size and TPI. If one is found then buy the screw from the parts list.
The other method would be to get raw metal rod of 3/8" diameter chuck it in a drill press or hand electric drill and turn your own using a file (if you don't have a lathe) then go buy a die and thread you "new" screw blank. This is a lot of trouble and effort but if it is all you have then this will have to do :wink: . I make most of my screws - but I have a lathe which makes it a "easy-peesy" ten min job:v .
 
ToddBro said:
I tried that sight, no dice. It's not the metric size that's a problem, it's the diameter of the head. Maybe a pan head with a small fender washer might work. Just sucks, because I love this rifle, couldn't believe how accurate it was and ignition was flawless. Early doe seasons stars next weekend and really want to take this piece afield!

I have actually seen a fair number of original guns that were "temporarily repaired" that way and they are still on the guns over a century or more later. I'd probably do that to go hunting until I got the/a correct screw. Just make sure the length of the threaded portion of the screw is not too long to allow the head to tighten down. You may have to hack saw/grind/file the threaded part down a bit so that works.

Gus
 
I repaired an old Ardesa Hawken with hardware store screws. The heads were allen heads but the thread was correct. I bought a nut to screw on so when I cut it to length the nut would help clean the threads when I took the nut off after the cut. I ground the allen head flat and using a file cut a screw driver slot. The other thing I had to do was blue the screw with cold blue because as most hardware screws sold today they were bright.
 
If you have to hack saw or grind down the temporary screw, buy a nut to screw on the bolt before you do any shortening. When you back the nut off, you clean up the threads and installing the shortened screw will be so much easier.
 
Grenadier1758 said:
If you have to hack saw or grind down the temporary screw, buy a nut to screw on the bolt before you do any shortening. When you back the nut off, you clean up the threads and installing the shortened screw will be so much easier.

Good advice on one way to do it. You can tighten the nut in the vise to hold it.

Another way is to use a Cut Off Disc in a Dremel tool while holding the screw head in a vise, if possible. If not, then the nut should be used with it to hold the screw as well.

Gus
 

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