Pedersoli Breech And Tang Gap Help

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Leadriver

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I bought this kit just before hunting season last year and took my time in a hurry if you know what I mean putting it together. I did check the barrel last year and I don’t know how I missed this. I always turn out work to the absolute best of my ability. I am a VERY picky gunsmith and if it doesn’t suit me I’ll keep doing something till it does no matter how long it takes or the cost. I take my work VERY personally and demand the very best. This oversight disgusts me and I’m ashamed that I let this slip. As you can see from the pics below not only do I have a sizable gap between the barrel and wood on the bottom side but I also have a gap between the rear breech face and wood as well. Plus it appears the tang itself isn’t inletted down far enough to meet the wood on its bottom surface near the breech face. So I have 3 points of no contact except for the underside of the tang itself. Pretty much a worst case senerio. I have gotten a few suggestions already such as using wood verniers to fill the gap between the barrel and stock. What about between the back of the breech and wood? This is a finished percussion rifle, so the least intrusive fix is what I’m after. This rifle will absolutely not shoot with any accuracy or consistency at all. I checked everything, tried everything else and this seems the be the problem. I had a suspicion that it was something to do with the bedding since there was absolutely no shot to shot consistency whatsoever. I should’ve checked it sooner but my own stubbornness led me to believe I did it right the first time. I will never make that assumption again. However, another couple issues I will run into if I choose to inlet everything, will be the bolster will make contact with the lock. The 2 pins toward the forward portion of the barrel may need to be replaced and re-drilled. On top of that the tang will sit approx 3/16 below the finished wood which would be unsightly in my own opinion.
 

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SwanShot

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I bought this kit just before hunting season last year and took my time in a hurry if you know what I mean putting it together. I did check the barrel last year and I don’t know how I missed this. I always turn out work to the absolute best of my ability. I am a VERY picky gunsmith and if it doesn’t suit me I’ll keep doing something till it does no matter how long it takes or the cost. I take my work VERY personally and demand the very best. This oversight disgusts me and I’m ashamed that I let this slip. As you can see from the pics below not only do I have a sizable gap between the barrel and wood on the bottom side but I also have a gap between the rear breech face and wood as well. Plus it appears the tang itself isn’t inletted down far enough to meet the wood on its bottom surface near the breech face. So I have 3 points of no contact except for the underside of the tang itself. Pretty much a worst case senerio. I have gotten a few suggestions already such as using wood verniers to fill the gap between the barrel and stock. What about between the back of the breech and wood? This is a finished percussion rifle, so the least intrusive fix is what I’m after. This rifle will absolutely not shoot with any accuracy or consistency at all. I checked everything, tried everything else and this seems the be the problem. I had a suspicion that it was something to do with the bedding since there was absolutely no shot to shot consistency whatsoever. I should’ve checked it sooner but my own stubbornness led me to believe I did it right the first time. I will never make that assumption again. However, another couple issues I will run into if I choose to inlet everything, will be the bolster will make contact with the lock. The 2 pins toward the forward portion of the barrel may need to be replaced and re-drilled. On top of that the tang will sit approx 3/16 below the finished wood which would be unsightly in my own opinion.
You didn't say what the Kit is. Can you get a new 90% inlet stock and start again? The only other option I can see is to bog up the gaps with epoxy, and I cringed as I typed that. There is no shame in getting it wrong once in a while.
 

Leadriver

40 Cal
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You didn't say what the Kit is. Can you get a new 90% inlet stock and start again? The only other option I can see is to bog up the gaps with epoxy, and I cringed as I typed that. There is no shame in getting it wrong once in a while.
No I spent way to much time on this to start over. It’s a Pedersoli Scout.
 

Leadriver

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The tabs that the pins go through should be slotted anyways so that will allow the barrel to move back some and compensate for natural wood movement. A careful and minimal amount of accur-glass can be used once the barrel and tang has been set back as much as possible.
If you were to give the “slot” a numerical number for length, what you recommend?
 
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I bought this kit just before hunting season last year and took my time in a hurry if you know what I mean putting it together. I did check the barrel last year and I don’t know how I missed this. I always turn out work to the absolute best of my ability. I am a VERY picky gunsmith and if it doesn’t suit me I’ll keep doing something till it does no matter how long it takes or the cost. I take my work VERY personally and demand the very best. This oversight disgusts me and I’m ashamed that I let this slip. As you can see from the pics below not only do I have a sizable gap between the barrel and wood on the bottom side but I also have a gap between the rear breech face and wood as well. Plus it appears the tang itself isn’t inletted down far enough to meet the wood on its bottom surface near the breech face. So I have 3 points of no contact except for the underside of the tang itself. Pretty much a worst case senerio. I have gotten a few suggestions already such as using wood verniers to fill the gap between the barrel and stock. What about between the back of the breech and wood? This is a finished percussion rifle, so the least intrusive fix is what I’m after. This rifle will absolutely not shoot with any accuracy or consistency at all. I checked everything, tried everything else and this seems the be the problem. I had a suspicion that it was something to do with the bedding since there was absolutely no shot to shot consistency whatsoever. I should’ve checked it sooner but my own stubbornness led me to believe I did it right the first time. I will never make that assumption again. However, another couple issues I will run into if I choose to inlet everything, will be the bolster will make contact with the lock. The 2 pins toward the forward portion of the barrel may need to be replaced and re-drilled. On top of that the tang will sit approx 3/16 below the finished wood which would be unsightly in my own opinion.

Tough to fix, everything needs to be moved down and back. Tang, under lugs, and possibly the lock bolt if it bolts through the breech bolster. If it were my gun, I’d shim the back with walnut veneer and refinish the gun and blend it in.
 

Leadriver

40 Cal
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Tough to fix, everything needs to be moved down and back. Tang, under lugs, and possibly the lock bolt if it bolts through the breech bolster. If it were my gun, I’d shim the back with walnut veneer and refinish the gun and blend it in.
Yea I’m trying to figure out how to make the wood behind the breech flat then glue a vernier to it and inlet the breech face to it. That way I don’t have to move anything around.
 

Leadriver

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Lots of good opinions here, whatever I can get figured out hopefully fixes the problem. Maybe it will shoot better than a piece of 8.5x11 piece of paper at 50 yards. I’d like to get it into the 1.5” or better but who knows. I don’t have any glass bed. I may have some marine tex left from a previous job.
 

tgfrench

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i believe it will most definitely shoot better, getting the full pressure off your barrel lugs and tang.
I used some JB Weld to do my cva kentucky. I had many of the same issues from my pre internet 1985 build.
 

Leadriver

40 Cal
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i believe it will most definitely shoot better, getting the full pressure off your barrel lugs and tang.
I used some JB Weld to do my cva kentucky. I had many of the same issues from my pre internet 1985 build.
I have plenty of jb weld, I have used it before to bed scope base that needed done and it worked ok. I kringe at using epoxy but it maybe what I have to do. Since it’s a finished rifle I don’t want to get to involved.
 
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