• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Pecatonica LR Re-stock project

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Messages
4,479
Reaction score
11,268
Location
Surry County, North Carolina
My first flintlock build was a Pecatonica River Lehigh County style flintlock, way back in 1986. It featured a 13/16" Green Mountain barrel/.45cal. , a Durrs Egg lock and premium Curly Maple. I had a few successful deer hunts with that beauty until one day it fell accross a log and the wrist area cracked, right through the lock mortise. It was pretty much a fatal crack and has been tucked away for many, many years, until now.
I decided a few weeks ago that I would re-stock the old gun and make it usable once more. I removed all the hardware that I could re-use, which excluded the patchbox, nosepiece (I epoxied that on) and the thimbles (I also epoxied and pinned them in.. not sure why!) I then contacted Doug at Pecatonica and told him what I wanted to do. He checked and had one of their pre-carved Lehigh's in the back, ready to go. It has a worm-hole with some staining behind the cheep piece area, but I think I will be able to deal with that...
Doug wasn't sure if my old lock and barrel would set corrctly in the new stock, but I took a gamble and said, 'Lets go for it' anyway.
The stock arrived quickly and oh the memories that came back!
The first thing I did was to do a cursory check on the barrel and lock relationship. Yup, on the new stock, it was pretty much the same, though the barrel had to go back about 1/4".
I was not able to dis-assemble the Durrs Egg, so I had to inlet it whole, which was maddening. It looks ok now, and I think that when it's time for final detailing it will be nice and tight with a few tricks I have learned...
I also closed the old pin holes in the trigger guard and under lugs (I made crude rivets from machine screws) so they can be re-used as well.
So for now I have the lock, Davis double set triggers and barrel in place and living well together, though may grind about 1/32" in the front area of the pan to get the touch hole perfectly centered. (As it is it will work fine but I may just do that because I am nuts.)
At this point I am waiting on the Butt Plate and patch box from Track, before I can do much more.
It's a nice feeling to revive my first build. I may never even shoot it, but knowing it's getting a new life makes me feel good..
 

Attachments

  • IMG-1369.jpg
    IMG-1369.jpg
    108.7 KB · Views: 125
  • Lehigh 6.jpg
    Lehigh 6.jpg
    209.8 KB · Views: 116
  • IMG_1403.jpg
    IMG_1403.jpg
    302.6 KB · Views: 114
  • Lehigh 8.jpg
    Lehigh 8.jpg
    152.9 KB · Views: 118
  • Lehigh 9.jpg
    Lehigh 9.jpg
    138.9 KB · Views: 130
  • Lehigh 11.jpg
    Lehigh 11.jpg
    188 KB · Views: 134
I was not able to dis-assemble the Durrs Egg, so I had to inlet it whole, which was maddening.
Please tell my why you couldn't get yours apart. I was just working with a new one yesterday, and I cant get the tumbler to pop off the hammer. Its like they pressed it on. How am I going to get it apart fully to polish and oil? A few years ago they popped when you needed to. Not this one! :mad:
 
I dont have proper tools to disassemble the lock. (I have a spring vise, LOL) The screw holding the cock to the tumbler is too tight and I dare not try to force it and mar the thing. I did OK getting the lock in nonetheless I would be a better craftsman if I could do some of these things!!Thanks for the link Zonie. I will check it out.
 
I've encountered some challenges with the Lehigh re-stock, but it's still on the bench getting lots of love. I decided to re-use the original butt plate, even though the patchbox lid recess is cut 1/8" wider than my current patchbox lid. The toe plate is in and the patch box is in. All-in-all, it's an enjoyable challenge fitting old parts onto a new, pre-carved stock, and bringing the rifle back to a functioning life.
In the mean time, my other Maple project, Mountain Dulcimer #121 is finished! It is primarially made with Big-leaf Flame Maple with great figuring. The sound is really excellent.
Though it's not my most favorite wood, I do like Maple :)
 

Attachments

  • Lehigh and dulcimer 2.jpg
    Lehigh and dulcimer 2.jpg
    222.4 KB · Views: 62
I finished up the rifle re-build today. I am pretty happy with it. The challenge was to use as much of my original Pecatonica River Lehigh County longrifle parts, (which I built in 1986) and re-use them on a new Pecatonica Lehigh County stock. I re-used the barrel, lock, butt plate and side plate.
The original patchbox had a slightly wider lid, which I notched the butt plate for. The new patchbox lid is a bit narrower, so there is a little gap there.
I also could not get the old Durrs Egg lock apart and feared damaging it if I tried to force it, so I did my best to carve it into the stock as a unit. It was a chore but it turned out OK.
Rebuilding this rifle was pretty enjoyable. I will be shooting it in a few days, but first I want to work several more applications of boiled linseed oil into the stock, which is still pretty thirsty.
As I remember, and if the sights didn't move, this barrel is dead-on. Time will tell!
 

Attachments

  • Done 8.jpg
    Done 8.jpg
    145.8 KB · Views: 90
  • Done 7.jpg
    Done 7.jpg
    117.2 KB · Views: 98
  • Done 4.jpg
    Done 4.jpg
    274.7 KB · Views: 87
  • Done 1.jpg
    Done 1.jpg
    236.3 KB · Views: 99
  • Done 5.jpg
    Done 5.jpg
    180.6 KB · Views: 91
  • Done 6.jpg
    Done 6.jpg
    202.3 KB · Views: 89
  • Done 9.jpg
    Done 9.jpg
    122.9 KB · Views: 89
  • Done 14.jpg
    Done 14.jpg
    293.6 KB · Views: 89
  • Done 16.jpg
    Done 16.jpg
    276.5 KB · Views: 94
  • Done 22.jpg
    Done 22.jpg
    187.6 KB · Views: 98
It's a minor thing, petty actually, but, just to help with the finished look, clock all of the screws of the patchbox, all of the screw slots pointing front to back. It' just a thing with me, kinda anal that way.
Overall a good looking rifle.
I had a similar break in the stock. But I chose to repair the stock, cementing together with "pine pitch and hoof glue" (aka epoxy). Finished with a band of brass. It's in my sig picture.
 
It's a minor thing, petty actually, but, just to help with the finished look, clock all of the screws of the patchbox, all of the screw slots pointing front to back. It' just a thing with me, kinda anal that way.
Original rifles did not align the screw slots. Check the Kindig and Shumway books.
 
My first flintlock build was a Pecatonica River Lehigh County style flintlock, way back in 1986. It featured a 13/16" Green Mountain barrel/.45cal. , a Durrs Egg lock and premium Curly Maple. I had a few successful deer hunts with that beauty until one day it fell accross a log and the wrist area cracked, right through the lock mortise. It was pretty much a fatal crack and has been tucked away for many, many years, until now.
I decided a few weeks ago that I would re-stock the old gun and make it usable once more. I removed all the hardware that I could re-use, which excluded the patchbox, nosepiece (I epoxied that on) and the thimbles (I also epoxied and pinned them in.. not sure why!) I then contacted Doug at Pecatonica and told him what I wanted to do. He checked and had one of their pre-carved Lehigh's in the back, ready to go. It has a worm-hole with some staining behind the cheep piece area, but I think I will be able to deal with that...
Doug wasn't sure if my old lock and barrel would set corrctly in the new stock, but I took a gamble and said, 'Lets go for it' anyway.
The stock arrived quickly and oh the memories that came back!
The first thing I did was to do a cursory check on the barrel and lock relationship. Yup, on the new stock, it was pretty much the same, though the barrel had to go back about 1/4".
I was not able to dis-assemble the Durrs Egg, so I had to inlet it whole, which was maddening. It looks ok now, and I think that when it's time for final detailing it will be nice and tight with a few tricks I have learned...
I also closed the old pin holes in the trigger guard and under lugs (I made crude rivets from machine screws) so they can be re-used as well.
So for now I have the lock, Davis double set triggers and barrel in place and living well together, though may grind about 1/32" in the front area of the pan to get the touch hole perfectly centered. (As it is it will work fine but I may just do that because I am nuts.)
At this point I am waiting on the Butt Plate and patch box from Track, before I can do much more.
It's a nice feeling to revive my first build. I may never even shoot it, but knowing it's getting a new life makes me feel good..

Great looking rifle
Shop and land.

I cannot imagine how you felt when that rifle cracked many years ago.
 
Looks good to me, one question though the patch box screws on the fancy tail section are they round headed, they look proud in the photos.
 
Looks good to me, one question though the patch box screws on the fancy tail section are they round headed, they look proud in the photos.
Yes, they are domed top brass screws. I used them (like on my Verner also) just because I like them. No reason other than that. Personal taste over historical accuracy.
 
Back
Top