Nose caps - Totally Dumb Question

[W T]

Being very, very new to traditional muzzleloading, I have no idea whatsoever as to how parts, furniture, locks - anything at all - are assembled into a long gun.

I have a T/C "Big Boar" with a extra GM barrel that I have come to enjoy shooting. While there is very little that is 'authentic' about T/Cs, I would like to get a bit closer. I haver removed and discarded the factory rubber butt pad and am working up a replacement.

I've just been looking at 'Muzzleloaders Builder's Supply' and would like to retrofit a nose cap to the halfstock (it has none).

My question is: how are nose caps attached?

Thanks to all for your patience and indulgence.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

WT,
On most old rifles copper or brass rivets were used along the ramrod groove. The wood is very thin, but I just use a brass screw and trim it to length after it is installed. Glue and or a metal epoxy helps too if you are inclined to use modern technology.
Flintlocks Forever,
Lar :thumbsup:

 

[W T]

Thank you, Larry. The mystery (for me) deepens.

I have no stock with nose cap, so (since I thought to actually look) I'm stuck with photographs on the net.

In them, the stock end looks to be squared-off, and the nose cap just sort of butted up against it.

The nose caps I'm seeing at "ML Builder's Supply" are shaped on the inside to follow the contours of the octagonal barrel, and look to support the end of the barrel ahead of the stock. I just can't visualize where and how they're attached to the squared-off wood!

There's gonna be some blindingly simple answer when somebody finally is able to help get the mental light bulb turned on for me (it's a 15-watt, out of a toaster oven) ...

 

[Todd Rickard]

On a halfstock rifle the nosecap often has two screws going in from the front and down into the endgrain of the wood.

 

[W T]

On a halfstock rifle the nosecap often has two screws going in from the front and down into the endgrain of the wood.

Alors! Merci bien, mon amie!

Je suis trop stupid...

 

[sidelock]

HOWS ZAT ????? :hmm: :hmm:

 

[W T]

HOWS ZAT ????? :hmm: :hmm:

Translation: "Dude! Many, thanks! I am, like, terminally stoopid."

W ("ShortBus") T

 

[paulvallandigham]

Most nosecaps are made of sheet brass or german silver, and fold around the end of the forestock, which is reduces in diameter so that the outside of the brass is flush with the forestock wood. The end is either folded up under heat, ( forged) or is made of a separate piece of sheet brass which is then brazed onto the sheet that half0circles the end of the stock. Screws hold the cap to the stock, and where the screws are located depends on the rifle. With the full stock guns, where the end of the cap is visible under the barrel, the screws are put through the bottom of the cap where the ramrod conceals them. On half stocks, the screws are typically put into the end of the cap, one on each side of the ramrod channel, and screwed into the end grain. They are filed flush with the front of the end cap, so that while they can be seen, they don't stick out or stand out to the casual observer.

Others cast an encap out of pewter or other metals, and its held to the stock because of grooves cut into the barrel channel that allows some of the molten metal to fll the grooves and keep the end cap attached. No screws are needed. YOu see cast endcaps mostly on Hawken style half stock guns.

One of the prettiest endcaps I have seen was on a Sothern style longrifle, The end cap was made of antler, and was fixed to the stock by the use of a dovetail cut in the end of the wood and a corresponding dovetail cut into the antler. The dovetail was beveled so that the antler could only come down from the top, helping the end grain of the forestock to hold the cap up. The end cap was flared at the muzzle slightly, so that you could slide the forestock of the rifle through your hand in the dark, and the widened endcap would tell you that you were nearing the end of the barrel. Then the two were glued together, and the barrel channel cut through the antler. It made a very attractive, primitive, end cap.

 

[W T]

Well, many thanks to you, Paul, for your cogent and lucid explanation of the varieities of nose cap attachment. That antler cap using a compound mitered dovetail sounds great.

Because I'll be working with a quasi-half stock, I'll use the pinned/screwed wrapped sheet metal on reduced diameter wood approach. Those at ML Supply look to be too thick for that application, so I'll be calling Cain's today for other parts and get their help in choosing the correct iron cap.

Many thanks again.

 

[Goldhunter]

As an added bit on info, look at the Mike Brooks building tutorial under member resources. He should hoe to attach the nose cap to the stock with a rivet. It may give you some additional pictures to help explain.

 

[W T]

As an added bit on info, look at the Mike Brooks building tutorial under member resources. He should hoe to attach the nose cap to the stock with a rivet. It may give you some additional pictures to help explain.

Thanks, Goldhunter - very clear illustrations - exactly what I needed.

 

[boar]

On A TC hawken the wood is recessed for bottom of cap and two long brass screws that are countersunk in face of cap screw in to wood (flat)front. Dilly

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

WT,
:redface:
I think I thunk wrong. Looks like the boys all out voted me. I must have been sleepin when you wrote HALFSTOCK. I was in the longrifle mode.
Sorry.
Flintlocks Forever
Lar :hatsoff:

 

[W T]

All to the good, Larry. Longrifles are in my future, too. :thumbsup:

I think it's about time for me to take a day trip out to Cain's in West Virginia and see some of this stuff in person. Get to kicj tires ona better selection of irons there, too...