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Needle Threading for Old Folks

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This is suggested for those of us who are getting long in the tooth and failing eyes. It may be common knowledge already but was new to me.
I use Victor's waxed linen thread # 5 and it's difficult to get it through the needles eye. I have found that I put the end of the thread on my worktable and give it a good tap which flattens it out and it becomes very easy to thread through the needles eye. Sure makes it easier for this old coot.
 
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This is suggested for those of us who are getting long in the tooth and failing eyes. It may be common knowledge already but was new to me.
I use Victor's waxed linen thread # 5 and it's difficult to get it through the needles eye. I have found that I put the end of the thread on my worktable and give it a good tap which flattens it out and it becomes very easy to thread through the needles eye. Sure makes it easier for this old coot.


Pretty much how I do it too. Except I grab it between two finger tips and pull it out with one finger nail squeezing it flat.
 
wife has this thingy that looks like a wire triangle. one can slip the thread through the "eye" of this thingy then insert the wire through the eye of the needle. works slick if i have my readers on and can even see the eye of the needle!
mostly i am sewing with leather or sinew and the eye of the big ole needle i am using is sufficient. and i use a 1/16 drill bit to make a hole in the leather for a starter.
 
This is suggested for those of us who are getting long in the tooth and failing eyes. It may be common knowledge already but was new to me.
I use Victor's waxed linen thread # 5 and it's difficult to get it through the needles eye. I have found that I put the end of the thread on my worktable and give it a good tap which flattens it out and it becomes very easy to thread through the needles eye. Sure makes it easier for this old coot.
I've never used Victor's waxed linen thread, we always wax our own natural linen thread by dragging the thread through a chunk of beeswax, usually 4 cord or 5 cord. I have been using John James brand Saddlers Harness Needles for over 30 years. I've tried Osborn's brand of needles, but they are too rough in finish and have too much drag and the eye is rough as well. The John James Needles are polished nickeled steel and are very slick. I generally use a 1/0 needle for 4 cord and 5 cord thread, but they have larger sizes. I do flatten the end by pinching the end with thumbnail and forefinger. Sometimes, I have to drag the end through a ball of beeswax several times and flatten in order to get it through the eye. You can also taper the end at a shallow angle with a trim knife, wax, flatten, and be able to get it through a smaller eye. You can get the John James Needles through Amazon, but due to the high volume of hand stitching we do, I buy them by the case from Abbey Saddlery in England. They last a long time, but will eventually snap if placed in a bind. John James Saddlers Harness Needles
 
I've never used Victor's waxed linen thread, we always wax our own natural linen thread by dragging the thread through a chunk of beeswax, usually 4 cord or 5 cord. I have been using John James brand Saddlers Harness Needles for over 30 years. I've tried Osborn's brand of needles, but they are too rough in finish and have too much drag and the eye is rough as well. The John James Needles are polished nickeled steel and are very slick. I generally use a 1/0 needle for 4 cord and 5 cord thread, but they have larger sizes. I do flatten the end by pinching the end with thumbnail and forefinger. Sometimes, I have to drag the end through a ball of beeswax several times and flatten in order to get it through the eye. You can also taper the end at a shallow angle with a trim knife, wax, flatten, and be able to get it through a smaller eye. You can get the John James Needles through Amazon, but due to the high volume of hand stitching we do, I buy them by the case from Abbey Saddlery in England. They last a long time, but will eventually snap if placed in a bind. John James Saddlers Harness Needles
I always did the same since I began doing leather work in the late 80's. However, I decided to try pre-waxed linen thread, 4 or 5 strand, and am in love with it. I will try the various needles mentioned and thanks for the advice.

YFAB

Leroy
 
I've been using 6 strand linen and finding it a bit thick. Any suggestions on a needle that is a good fit?

I have about a mile of it and sure would like to use it. :)
 
I did a lot of bead and quill work over the years. Waxing the thread is the key. Some use beeswax, but I always preferred a hard ski wax. It's a bit stickier. Once waxed, you can squeeze it between the fingers to flatten.
 
I've been using 6 strand linen and finding it a bit thick. Any suggestions on a needle that is a good fit?

I have about a mile of it and sure would like to use it. :)
A size 1/0 John James Saddlers Harness needle will work just fine, a little tight, but it will work. You can try waxing the end of the thread then cutting the end at a taper, then waxing and twisting for ease in passing through the eye. If that doesn't work, you'll need a larger needle. You always want to use the smallest diameter needle/eye that you can fit the thread through. If the thread will pass and slip easily through the eye, the needle is too large. With a large eye, you'll be fighting to keep the needle threaded, also if the eye is much larger than the thread it is more prone to breaking the eye when sewing.
 
I've been using 6 strand linen and finding it a bit thick. Any suggestions on a needle that is a good fit?

I have about a mile of it and sure would like to use it. :)
Also, sometime tomorrow while I'm at the shop, I'll wax and thread up some of the 1/0 needles with linen 4 cord, 5 cord, and 6 cord thread and see if I can post a good a photo along with how to taper the larger diameter thread for threading the eye.
 
I've been using 6 strand linen and finding it a bit thick. Any suggestions on a needle that is a good fit?

I have about a mile of it and sure would like to use it. :)
Learn to taper your ends.

Tapering will allow for the use of a smaller needle because you can thread that needle more easily. It also will make it easier to stitch using smaller, properly poked, holes because you not only have a smaller needle, you don't have a big bulky doubled up layer of thread past the needle to pull through those holes. This will result in a nicer looking, and longer lasting line of stitch.

It is worth the time invested. Which really isn't that much time.
 
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