Need Help and Advice

[monkr]

Took my gun out with a group of guys who shoot competion and re-enactment. Hoping to learn somethings since I'm new to black powder. Well couple guys said my trigger action was sorry and they tightened it about I want to say about four turns to the right. It seems a lot harder now and the hammer falls real hard. The loading lever now starts to fall every few shots. I thought it was alright right out out the box. I wouldn't know what a good trigger job was if it bite me in the face.
When I seat my shots in the cylinder and Iam heavy handed but they are not even some are seated deeper than others and they said thats one reason I'm a bad shot. Also they said I should send my gun to someone to work on.
I didn't want to pay $300.00 for a gun and then have to pay another $150.00 or so for improvements. Heck i just wanted to ave fun. Anyway jus wanted to vent since you guys have been so nice to me. And any sugestions would be appreciated on want to do. I have a case harden Pietta 1858 44 cal, 8" barrel.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Sounds like lots of issues. Sorry you're having troubles. Some things I can help with, and others are over my head and will require folks who tinker with their guns to begin to explain what's going on.

I can deal with the loading aspect. Yes, in order to develop accuracy in the revolver, the same amount to pressure applied to seating each ball goes a long way in establishing a base line as far as a standard velocity from shot to shot. Ideally the use of wads or filler along with an appropriate amount of powder will stabilize where your shots wind-up. The use of a custom loading stand for the pistol doesn't hurt either.

As far as the loading lever falling now when it didn't before, unless your loads changed and got hotter, the lever should stay up on its' own on the 1858 New Model Army. Unless one of them did something you didn't discuss.

Did any of these folks you shot with recommend anyone to fix the revolver? It may actually need some attention by someone who is competent, and it doesn't sound like you're a gunsmith. Most smiths will find-out what's wrong through an examination, and then make a recommendation as to how to proceed and what it will cost. Without photos, it's harder to diagnose over the internet.

Perhaps someone more knowledgable than me in this will post soon. Good luck and I hope it can be something simple.

Dave

 

[Blizzard of '93]

monk - you might check the notch that the lever latches onto, see if the notch is deep enough and check the spring-loaded tip on the end of the lever it could be weak. I'm guessing the notch isn't deep enough or cut sharply is why the lever is dropping.
dave has it right consistency is important for tight groups. got a good powder measure? aounds to me that may have a bearing.
a good powder measure for 'target' loads in the big .44 is a .357mag case. a felt on top then the ball/slug, give it a try.
Blizz.

 

[Zoar]

monkr---sorry to hear about your troubles. it seems the first suggestion is NOT go shooting with those guys (clowns) anymore. They may ahave screwed up your gun. You said--"It seems a lot harder now and the hammer falls real hard." Do you mean it takes alot more finger pressure to get the hammer to fall? If so, UNDO what they did! Go about 3 turns back!

Keeping powder amount consistent and getting the same pressure on each load takes experience. Don't expect to be perfect the first few times out. Like you said--It should be about FUN. So go out and make some smoke and some noise and have some fun and don't worry too much about super accuracy yet. That said, sure it is wise to try to be consistent with the pressure you apply when loading. As suggested a load stand is helpful! And try to get the same amount of powder in the cylinders. Not rocket science and not too difficult, but yea, it sounds like you need to go out to the range with a new group of guys (clowns). :grin:

 

[ol vern]

What Zor said.

Lot of :bull: "experts" out there that don't know the difference between
the joint half between their sholder and their wrist and what they sit on.

 

[token tory]

"4 turns" seems like a huge amount for an adjustment to me. :shake:
Let me ask you something. Was it working before the "adjustment"?

I ask because usually you make adjustments in small amounts (like about 1/2 a turn) & then see if it was a help or not to fixing the problem.
If there wasn't a problem then the # of turns was just right to fix it before the "experts" helped out. :idunno: :bull: :blah:

 

[Lostinthewoods]

I do not remember there being anything on a '58 Remington to adjust! The trigger is not adjustable and I do not remember the hammer spring having a tension screw, though it has been 20 years since I owned one.

It makes me wonder what those guys were cranking around with? It's your gun, turn whatever they messed with back the way it was if it was better before.

The balls in the cylender need to be seated firmly on the powder charge. Past that do not worry about them.

You are a bad shot because you need practice. The more practice time you put in the faster you will break in the pistol too.

 

[rafterob]

Yes there is a tension adjusting screw at the bottom front of the grip frame. I would typically not let anyone other than a gunsmith adjust anything on my weapon that I couldn't do myself. As said-there are lots of "experts" out there. I've read way too many posts here about "experts" really screwing something up.

 

[token tory]

Yep mine is in the same place.
The docs say to release tension on this screw to remove the hammer spring. Unfortunately they do NOT say how many turns to tighten it by when reassembling though. :idunno:

 

[stubshaft]

Undo the "adjustments" that the eggspurts made. Adjust the trigger and hammer tension to whatever suits YOU (as long as it still sets off the cap). As far as your shooting ability goes practice, practice and more practice. BUT, it is a subjective thing because not all of us want to shoot like a bullseye shooter. You may be happy killing beer cans!

The main thing to remember is that it is supposed to be FUN. Shoot the way that you want to (as long as it's safe). :thumbsup:

 

[monkr]

Thanks guys I turned it back and decided to just have fun. Took my baby desert eagle 40cal out today just for the heck of it and at 20 yards hit the center of targret 26 out of 30 rd so I figure I'm not that bad of a shooter just have to practice with this type of gun. Once again thanks for your help and advice.

 

[Zoar]

Monkr---Cool Beans! Yea shooting with a black powder gun is a hoot and no need for it to be difficult. I tell my GF --"I'm going out to play" every time I take one of my black powder guns out to shoot... :thumbsup:

 

[madcratebuilder]

The hammer tension screw was not designed as an adjustment. It is intended to be tighten completely. The screw when tightened is holding the hammer spring in the correct geometry. BUT not all hammer spring screws are the correct length and the hammer spring can have more tension than needed. For most a wolf replacement spring is the best bet, or you can shape your spring for the desired tension.

I know a lot of you use the hammer spring screw to adjust tension and it well work for very minor adjustments. Four turns is not a minor adjustment.

You need enough hammer tension to reliably ignite the caps and not have hammer blow back allowing the caps to come off the nipples. You can file the end of the hammer spring screw to get the tension you want when the screw is tight, but you don't have a lot of tolerance in length and still maintain the correct geometry. It's a balancing act to get the spring tension right with just the spring, then do the finial minute adjustments with screw length.

Some good reading here.
http://www.scorrs.org/gunsmith.htm

 

[Blizzard of '93]

good post madcrate, I bookmarked the link for further reference. :thumbsup:
he's right if the hammer is 'blowing back off the nipple' it needs enough tension not to do this. I've tightened a few and it doesn't take but a turn maybe 2 on the tension screw.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Good post! :thumbsup:

Some of what you've typed here is "transplantable" to centerfire pistols as well! Spring geometry is the best terminology I've heard for this topic.

Again, excellent post, and thanks! :hatsoff:

Dave