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My pillow "tickle" cloth shot cup for 20 gauge

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Dan ..I lube with bees wax/olive oil. I keep cups in a tin for hunting. I just lube peddles of cup. Yes...so far the super glue hold great. The ones I find on ground ..still have good hold. I just use a small spot of glue at bottom of side to hold it round. Then fold over flaps , glued to OS card. ( I put a little wax/oil lube on brass form so glue don't stick) Then trim off extra cloth of peddles that stick up.The slits were cut to open up cup on firing. I'd love to have someone else try out this cup style. Thanks Jeff
 
If they are still cupped on the ground lose the glue...Try lubing with Hoppe's bp solvent and lube...wet!
Between the heavy lube and the glue your affecting you shot string-pattern.
Good luck!
 
Makeumsmake ..No...they open up good with 4 slots cut

kd8jgu I pour powder...1/8 nitro card push to bottom ...load cloth shot cup lubed( bees wax/olive oil) till its in barrel 1/4" pass crown...load shot into cup ...add a OS card..push down tight..boom ! I might try wasp nest instead of OS card !

DSC07720.jpg


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does anyone here do it for a 12ga.
The reason I ask is I would like the pattern you use to mark and cut tickling
 
Jeff - These look great and promising, but I have to ask: How in the world do you get such consistent, exact traces in the pillow ticking? Do you just draw them freehand? They all look so perfect! Is there a secret?
 
Marc ...I made a plastic pattern out of a plastic coffee can lid. I outline cloth and cut it out. Very fast way ! ( see my 1-26 post above)
 
Ah so, very good. Thank you!

These do look like they've been made with precision, kudos to you. I'll try to follow your lead and get in the game if I can.
 
Brass dowel is .565 I use a .021 Pillow Tickle cloth fro Jo Ann Fab. I use my Bees Wax/Olive Oil lube on it to keep super glue from sticking too.
 
Hate to be a PITA about this, but how wide is the strip of pillow ticking? As wide as a AA battery is long?

Can you specify the dimensions of the ticking when you buy it at - Wallymart, Joann's, etc?
 
Do the math. Measure your bore accurately using calipers. A nominal 20 ga. is .615" in diameter. Multiply that diameter times PI( 3.1416) to get your circumference. ( In a nominally sized bore of .615", the circmference is 1.93") Now divide that number in two, as one strip is going to form both "sides" of your cup, as well as the bottom. ( The nominal bore will use a strip that is .966" wide, or 1" for proactical purposes.

Since all fabric comes with "sizing" in it to make it iron flat for compact storage and transportation, you must wash the fabric twice and then dry it, and iron it, to prepare it to be split into strips.

For that reason I do NOT recommend asking fabric stores to cut the strips for you. Too much fraying of the edges will occur during the washing and drying.

Start your cut with a scissors, and then use a knife stuck into a wood surface( with a sharpened blade) to cut the strip s as you pull the fabric towards you passed the edge of the knife. Once you get the hang of it, you will mark the cutting edge of the fabric with a pencil using a ruler to measure off the intervals, and then efficiently cut the strips one after another.

A little overlap of the fabric in the barrel is not going to adversely impact your patterns. It may cause a larger "kink", or fold, at the bottom of the cup, but if you use an OS card under( behind) the cup when forming it, and then seat an undersized OS card inside the cup to add strength and provide a slick surface to push the shot out of the cup when it leaves the muzzle, the shape of those kinks or folds will mean nothing to the patters you will get.

Paul
 
jeffdrown said:
Anyone try my design yet???
Jeff, I have not...unless I've overlooked it I havn't seen any more pattern target results posted.
And as I said a few weeks back, I already get better patterns from my bare factory Cylinder Bore than the pattern target you had posted from a Modified Bore using shot cups.

I think you've really put a lot of effort and precision into making them...but I have to be honest and say there's not any need / incentive for me to get into all that at this point.

My reference target is a 3/5" tuna can at 25yds.
.54cal smooth Virginia, cylinder bore, no shot cup.
60grn measure Goex 3F
1/2" Circle Fly lubed cushion wad
100grn measure of #5s (chilled, not even hard shot)
2 Circle Fly OS cards

05301125ydTunaCanTestsNo5s25yds.jpg

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