My kit

Discussion in 'Percussion Rifles' started by tom in nc, Aug 25, 2019.

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  1. Aug 25, 2019 #1

    tom in nc

    tom in nc

    tom in nc

    32 Cal

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    I bought this kit, cheap, at a local flea market some time back. Like it states on the package, most of the work is done. There is a little inletting to be done, the browning and finishing, then assembly. I think I will put it together. I believe I will add a patchbox. 20190824_200109.jpg 20190824_200746.jpg 20190824_200224.jpg
    Typical looking lock, huh? I don't see date codes or proof marks on the barrel only "made in
    Spain". The seller said he bought in in the seventies, and just never got around to putting it together.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2019
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  2. Aug 25, 2019 #2

    Rat

    Rat

    Rat

    50 Cal.

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    Very cool, I bet the price was right. I should go to more flea-markets. I stop at garage sales a lot, but it's usually all women's clothes and coffee cups.
     
  3. Aug 25, 2019 #3

    Dan Masson

    Dan Masson

    Dan Masson

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    You will have fun. I browned my guns using Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution, and finished the stocks with boiled linseed oil. Others may chime in with different recommendations.
    I wish I had marked mine under the barrel, with year and initials or name.
    Dan
     
  4. Aug 25, 2019 #4

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

    Grenadier1758

    58 Cal.

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    There's more wood to take off than they lead you to believe. Getting the two piece stock to look good will take some time. Inletting the trigger guard, lock and side plate can be a little tricky. The Spanish barrels can be very accurate in performance. Putting the kit together will add to your skill set. Let us know of your progress.
     
  5. Aug 25, 2019 #5

    DOUBLEDEUCE 1

    DOUBLEDEUCE 1

    DOUBLEDEUCE 1

    69 Cal.

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    I hope you get a lot of enjoyment putting the kit together, and a ton of satisfaction shooting it.:cool:
     
  6. Aug 25, 2019 #6

    Carbon 6

    Carbon 6

    Carbon 6

    58 Cal.

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    Yep! gives me flashbacks.
    Enjoy !
     
  7. Aug 25, 2019 #7

    Phil Coffins

    Phil Coffins

    Phil Coffins

    40 Cal.

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    There are threads on building this kit in the gunsmithing part of this site, I highly recommend you read them and look at the photos befor you begin. You can learn a lot.
     
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  8. Aug 25, 2019 #8

    Trot

    Trot

    Trot

    45 Cal.

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    I agree about the wood removal, there is a lot to come off if you want it to look right. The lock panels need to be reshaped pretty heavily. These guns are usually great shooters.
     
  9. Aug 25, 2019 #9

    Ronnman

    Ronnman

    Ronnman

    32 Cal.

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    Another nod to excessive amount of wood requiring removal. So much so, to speed the process up, I used a handheld wood plane to remove up 3/16” to 1/4” thickness of wood. Most removal needed was on the fore stock to just in front of the lock area. I’ll see if I can get a pic or two of the completed rifle.
    Ron
     
  10. Aug 25, 2019 #10

    Ronnman

    Ronnman

    Ronnman

    32 Cal.

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    See pics. Kit purchased and built in 1978. Used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and Browning solution.
    Ron

    CC6BB760-1C67-46ED-97D4-ADFC0CC640B3.jpeg 6007BA0D-22DA-4134-B03B-93C3857200DF.jpeg A9D9C3DA-624E-404E-B0F5-D5D3F61D6759.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2019
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  11. Aug 25, 2019 #11

    Zonie

    Zonie

    Zonie

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    tom in NC:
    If you want to stain the stock so it isn't blond, DO NOT use a oil based stain line Minwax or a stain that uses paint thinner.
    The stock is made from Beech wood and it will not absorb the stain. That will result in the wood becoming slightly darker but restaining it with the oil based stains will do nothing to make it darker than the first coat did.

    Buy some Birchwood Casey Walnut stain at your local gun store or on line. It is a water base stain that will stain beech wood. It also has the advantage that if you want it darker you can apply more coats. I think I used about 3 coats of a similar alcohol based stain on this CVA 12 guage which is also stocked in Beech.

    CVA SHOTGUN 001.jpg
     
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  12. Aug 25, 2019 #12

    Mulebrain

    Mulebrain

    Mulebrain

    62 Cal.

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    You will enjoy that rifle, they are reliable, and fairly accurate. I still have one in the stable
     
  13. Aug 26, 2019 #13

    Dan Masson

    Dan Masson

    Dan Masson

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    Zonie, your comments about stain are interesting. I have not worked with beech before, myself. I have used alcohol based stains in maple when making bows, and knife handles, and I loved them. I bought the powders from an on-line store, mixed alcohol, and BAM they soaked in good and looked great. But I don't know about beech. Dan
     
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  14. Aug 26, 2019 #14

    Zonie

    Zonie

    Zonie

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    Beech is a very tightly closed grain wood which explains why it doesn't absorb oil base stains well.
    Because a water base or alcohol base stain can sink deeply into the wood and once it is there it will evaporate, Once dry, additional coats of it will also sink deeply into the wood and have the effect of greatly darkening the beech wood.
     
  15. Aug 26, 2019 #15

    JB67

    JB67

    JB67

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  16. Aug 26, 2019 #16

    Mark Herman

    Mark Herman

    Mark Herman

    40 cal - b

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    Some of these kits had poor fit between the stock and forearm. A way to avoid that and get rid of some wood is to make it a half stock. Rod thimbles can be put onto the bottom flat of the barrel and also avoid an under rib.
     
  17. Aug 26, 2019 #17

    tom in nc

    tom in nc

    tom in nc

    32 Cal

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    Thanks all. Mark, since my "other" rifle is a full stock I wouldn't mind this one being a half stock. The supplied stock is two pieces. Please school me on how to go about doing the conversion. Thanks.
     
  18. Aug 26, 2019 #18

    Mark Herman

    Mark Herman

    Mark Herman

    40 cal - b

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    Simply put, you would eliminate the firestorm and put a nose cap on the front of the forearm in place of the brass spacer. It could be formed brass or poured pewter. The thimbles could then be soldered to the bottom flat of the barrel or screwed on, solder preferred. The wood removal and shaping of the stock would be as you would even if left a half stock. The same with the balance of the hardware. Relatively simple fix.
     
  19. Aug 27, 2019 #19

    JB67

    JB67

    JB67

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    I think you're going to end up with too short of a stock. Poor fit can be resolved with some work. Part of the satisfaction from these kits is in taking a rough diamond and making it sparkle.
     
  20. Aug 27, 2019 #20

    Mark Herman

    Mark Herman

    Mark Herman

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    JB may very well be right, hadn't thought about the location of the splice being so far to the rear.
     
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