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MOOSE MILK?
- Thread starter ghartung
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Bushwhacker
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Moose milk is plain ol machine soluble oil diluted in water.
It will seperate so you need to shake it up often. Not good for a bore lube if you're planning on having the gun loaded for some time.
BUSHWHACKER
Walk softly and carry a smoothbore :thumbsup:
It will seperate so you need to shake it up often. Not good for a bore lube if you're planning on having the gun loaded for some time.
BUSHWHACKER
Walk softly and carry a smoothbore :thumbsup:
Chickenfax
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Hey Bowdawg,
Like the name.
Anyway, here is a link to the thread.
Moose Milk
Stumpkiller did some R&D and came up with the recipe that I use. I have had excellent results with it. I believe if you follow along on the thread, there is also a recipe for Moose Snot (can't remember if that is what he calls it). It contains beeswax and would be good for hunting where you don't want a water-based lube.
Don't forget to wear hearing protection when you shoot. It's embarrasing WHEN YOU CAN'T HEAR YOURSELF TALK.
:crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:
Good luck.
Like the name.
Anyway, here is a link to the thread.
Moose Milk
Stumpkiller did some R&D and came up with the recipe that I use. I have had excellent results with it. I believe if you follow along on the thread, there is also a recipe for Moose Snot (can't remember if that is what he calls it). It contains beeswax and would be good for hunting where you don't want a water-based lube.
Don't forget to wear hearing protection when you shoot. It's embarrasing WHEN YOU CAN'T HEAR YOURSELF TALK.
:crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:
Good luck.
HUH?? What's that??? Speak up would ya?
:crackup: :crackup:
The Often Imitated, Never Exonerated, Fully Disgustipated Product Line of Stumpy's Moose Fluids!
I have been convinced that petroleum products cause tar in the fouling, so mine uses castor as the soluable oil. But castor oil is alcohol soluable, not water soluable.
Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
There's also a "Spit" (Windex substitute) and a "Marrow" (conical/mini
I have been convinced that petroleum products cause tar in the fouling, so mine uses castor as the soluable oil. But castor oil is alcohol soluable, not water soluable.
Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
There's also a "Spit" (Windex substitute) and a "Marrow" (conical/mini
Guest
I ran across another version (I'm sure there are plenty!)
1/3 Murphy's oil soap
1/3 Alcohol
1/3 Water
$6 will get you a couple quarts of it
I tried it out at the range last week and it was superb...cleanup afterwards was much easier than my automatics!
1/3 Murphy's oil soap
1/3 Alcohol
1/3 Water
$6 will get you a couple quarts of it
I tried it out at the range last week and it was superb...cleanup afterwards was much easier than my automatics!
pepperbelly
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Stumpy ya'll need a FAQ with your recipes and their variants listed, or tack this thread as read only on one of the forums.
I copied and pasted and saved the recipe, but some newbies may have to do a search for it.
Just a thought,
Jim
I copied and pasted and saved the recipe, but some newbies may have to do a search for it.
Just a thought,
Jim
JOHN L. HINNANT
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Greetings Bowdawg,
What I believe is the original "Moose Milk" formula is printed in the book, MUZZLE LOADING SHOOTING AND WINNING WITH THE CHAMPIONS. 1973 copyright. ( Everybody should have this book).
The following formula is found in the Wilburn L. Terry article titled, Shooting The Round Ball Bench Rest Rifle.
1 oz. Water-soluable oil
1 oz. Lestoil (or Pine-Sol)
2 oz. Hydrogen peroxide (regular first-aid type)
12 oz. Water
This is a very good bore cleaner and is also excellant for wiping the bore between shots. However, it does not contain any rust inhibitors. After the bore is clean and DRY, the bore must be greased or oiled to prevent rusting.
Water-soluable oil can usually be purchased at a machine shop where it is used as a tool/material coolant during machining operations. The oil looks like any other oil until it is mixed with water, then it turns white, hence "Moose Milk". This oil/water mix coolant solution is commonly called "Pigion Milk".
For the past 20 years or so I have simplified my cleaning solution requirements by using BLACK-SOLVE exclusively, great stuff.
Hope this will help you.
Best regards, John L. Hinnant
What I believe is the original "Moose Milk" formula is printed in the book, MUZZLE LOADING SHOOTING AND WINNING WITH THE CHAMPIONS. 1973 copyright. ( Everybody should have this book).
The following formula is found in the Wilburn L. Terry article titled, Shooting The Round Ball Bench Rest Rifle.
1 oz. Water-soluable oil
1 oz. Lestoil (or Pine-Sol)
2 oz. Hydrogen peroxide (regular first-aid type)
12 oz. Water
This is a very good bore cleaner and is also excellant for wiping the bore between shots. However, it does not contain any rust inhibitors. After the bore is clean and DRY, the bore must be greased or oiled to prevent rusting.
Water-soluable oil can usually be purchased at a machine shop where it is used as a tool/material coolant during machining operations. The oil looks like any other oil until it is mixed with water, then it turns white, hence "Moose Milk". This oil/water mix coolant solution is commonly called "Pigion Milk".
For the past 20 years or so I have simplified my cleaning solution requirements by using BLACK-SOLVE exclusively, great stuff.
Hope this will help you.
Best regards, John L. Hinnant
IMO, the original formula not only doesn't have rust inhibiters, it has a rust causer.
Hydrogen Peroxide is basically water with extra oxygen molicules in it. These extra oxygen molicules are very loosely bonded to the water molicules and break free at the slightest provocation. These oxygen molicules when mixed with the steel your barrel is made from, produce forms of iron oxide which most people call rust.
I have yet to hear anyone say what the hydrogen peroxide is supposed to do that plain ole water wouldn't do as well.
:imo:If you want to build some of these patch lubes or bore cleaners and the formula calls for Hydrogen Peroxide, do yourself and your gun a favor and replace it with an equal amount of distilled water.
Hydrogen Peroxide is basically water with extra oxygen molicules in it. These extra oxygen molicules are very loosely bonded to the water molicules and break free at the slightest provocation. These oxygen molicules when mixed with the steel your barrel is made from, produce forms of iron oxide which most people call rust.
I have yet to hear anyone say what the hydrogen peroxide is supposed to do that plain ole water wouldn't do as well.
:imo:If you want to build some of these patch lubes or bore cleaners and the formula calls for Hydrogen Peroxide, do yourself and your gun a favor and replace it with an equal amount of distilled water.
:applause:
Guest
Molecule : )
Guest
Aw heck, just kidden. I even had to look it up 'cause it just didn't look right. Please forgive this son of a teacher, or son of a *****. I meant no harm or smart aleckness. Hmmmmmm, I wonder if smart aleckness is even a word? I use this forum a lot for good info so I'll quit with the smarty stuff.
If ye think molicule are bad ye should see how Zonie types when he's excited. :haha:
We once tested a spel chekur here:
Zonie are an arteest with the wroten word.
We once tested a spel chekur here:
Zonie are an arteest with the wroten word.
Guest
That's right Stumpkiller, I would never want to hurt any feelings. My spelling isn't the best by any means, my math is horrible and my gun building even worse. Notice I haven't posted a picture of my Jaeger yet! ( mostly 'cause I can't figgur owt howta get the rite fourmat to fotobuket, very frustratin' indeed) Rest assured I won't correct any more spelling faux pas. I still feel like a new kid on the block on this forum and I don't want to wear out my welcome.
brushbuster
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theres faux pa ,faux mas,anna few faux bruttas an sittas round hyar :youcrazy:.relax dont worry about it theres a great bunch of people on this forum,avery body gets a jab on,ced in awhile :bull: :bull::haha: :haha: :haha: :relax: :relax:
Ah jus want ye ta kno, Ah speled it "molicule" caus Ah knu it wood get ole Stumpys atenshon.
Ye see, har name wer Moli Cule an ole Stumpy thout she wer jus 'bout tha kutest thin he evar did see.
She are tha reeson he sined up fer tha tipin un spellin klass an skiped goin ta tha shop klass wit tha rest o us gys.
That are why he are so ellequent wit his tipin' but he kant turn a $195 peece o Kruly Mapel inter a big pill o shavins like sum o' tha rist o' us kan. :: ::
Hill! It are a tridition amung us Enganeers ta misspel wurds!
Ah doesn't mind folks a tellin me Ah arn't spelin thins rite jus so long as ye knows what Ah are a sa'in. Ah jus say, It are mi perrssonna!** :: ::
Fer thos o ye who dosn't kno what Ah wer a sain up above it are DON'T USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE IN YER GUN. :nono:
** Claude sais we muderators gots ta hav one so's ye wil kno what ye are suppos ta be ah makin. ::
Ye see, har name wer Moli Cule an ole Stumpy thout she wer jus 'bout tha kutest thin he evar did see.
She are tha reeson he sined up fer tha tipin un spellin klass an skiped goin ta tha shop klass wit tha rest o us gys.
That are why he are so ellequent wit his tipin' but he kant turn a $195 peece o Kruly Mapel inter a big pill o shavins like sum o' tha rist o' us kan. :: ::
Hill! It are a tridition amung us Enganeers ta misspel wurds!
Ah doesn't mind folks a tellin me Ah arn't spelin thins rite jus so long as ye knows what Ah are a sa'in. Ah jus say, It are mi perrssonna!** :: ::
Fer thos o ye who dosn't kno what Ah wer a sain up above it are DON'T USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE IN YER GUN. :nono:
** Claude sais we muderators gots ta hav one so's ye wil kno what ye are suppos ta be ah makin. ::
Guest
Well put Zonie. Now back to Moose Milk. I use the dry patch method but I like to give my day's group of patches an extra squirt of the stuff(I know, makes no sense) and I keep them in a sandwich bag inside my shooting pouch but that looks uncool at the shooting matches. I tried cutting at the muzzle but I need three hands which I don't have. How do you fellows have your outfit set up for shooting without being awkward or un-PC about it?
JOHN L. HINNANT
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Greeting Zonie,
I do not have the foggiest idea what the peroxide is supposed to do in the Moose Milk formula. Maybe somebody on the forum can answer that question.
However, I will say that bore rusting was not a problem. Never even had a trace amount. Perhaps the the water soluable oil had a neutralizing effect. Since the peroxide was only 1 oz of the total 16 oz solution, maybe the peroxide was too diluted to cause rust.
Once I tried a Murphy's Oil Soap formula that used both peroxide and alcohol. That would cause bore rust; got away from that one quick.
It was great for bore cleaning; really did the job, but the bore rust drove me away.
As I previously posted, BLACK SOLVE is my personal preference now and has been for 20-25 years. It does everything I require and has not given me a reason to try anything else.
In another thread, I have posted in some detail my use of BLACK SOLVE in case somebody would like to review that.
Best regards, John L. Hinnant
I do not have the foggiest idea what the peroxide is supposed to do in the Moose Milk formula. Maybe somebody on the forum can answer that question.
However, I will say that bore rusting was not a problem. Never even had a trace amount. Perhaps the the water soluable oil had a neutralizing effect. Since the peroxide was only 1 oz of the total 16 oz solution, maybe the peroxide was too diluted to cause rust.
Once I tried a Murphy's Oil Soap formula that used both peroxide and alcohol. That would cause bore rust; got away from that one quick.
It was great for bore cleaning; really did the job, but the bore rust drove me away.
As I previously posted, BLACK SOLVE is my personal preference now and has been for 20-25 years. It does everything I require and has not given me a reason to try anything else.
In another thread, I have posted in some detail my use of BLACK SOLVE in case somebody would like to review that.
Best regards, John L. Hinnant
DavidP2211
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All,
I am not going to get into what I do for a living, but suffice it to say that the oxygen atoms in the hydrogen peroxide would have long disassociated before anyone would ever get a chance to put it down a barrel. (The organic compounds in the oil would have taken care of that issue.) Therefore, I wouldn't waste the money using it - just use water if you feel it is a necessary component.
I am not going to get into what I do for a living, but suffice it to say that the oxygen atoms in the hydrogen peroxide would have long disassociated before anyone would ever get a chance to put it down a barrel. (The organic compounds in the oil would have taken care of that issue.) Therefore, I wouldn't waste the money using it - just use water if you feel it is a necessary component.
