Miroku Brown Bess; Busted

[FlinterNick]

WOW that was super kind of you to go to all that trouble and photographs and even a scale next to the spring. Can't thank you enough!!!

LD

Butch makes good 1842 Springs, and a good 1842 frizzen spring.

The only issue I had with putting it on my Charleville was I had to open the mortise a few MM on the spring side.

I haven’t much luck with pedersoli springs, the stress points on the spring for some reason are not very strong, at least on the newer patterns. The older locks had much better springs.

 

[Rundownfid]

This has certainly generated a number of replys. I have taken the advise of sending my lock to Ackrman, thank you for the suggestion. I must say I am very impressed so far, Mr. Ackerman spent some time giving me valuable suggestions and for a very reasonable cost has undertaken to fit a new spring for my lock. It hasn't returned yet but so far I believe the lock is in good hands.

 

[FlinterNick]

This has certainly generated a number of replys. I have taken the advise of sending my lock to Ackrman, thank you for the suggestion. I must say I am very impressed so far, Mr. Ackerman spent some time giving me valuable suggestions and for a very reasonable cost has undertaken to fit a new spring for my lock. It hasn't returned yet but so far I believe the lock is in good hands.

Paul Ackerman is very resourceful, I’ve had some work done by him and I get some parts that are hard to find from him.

If you’re in the area, the Baltimore gun show in March at the Timonium fair grounds is a great place to find parts, its worth the trip.

 

[FlinterNick]

I compared the Miroku spring to the Rifle Shoppe’s 1756 Bess Mainspring, the lockplates measure almost the same length, off by about 1/8 with the TRS lockplate being larger on the forward end, the TRS spring is just slightly longer and wider by the screw lug, the pivot lug is not the same, however you can ask Rifle Shoppe to add a blob of wax to their molding. With a little file work, I think their spring will work just fine.

 

[Boatncamp]

Dave,

Have you tried Ackermann Arms to see if they have a direct replacement for the Miroku main spring? Personally, I would try that first before the time and expense of altering the lock plate and yes, even though a Pedersoli spring was provided to you. Someone else can always use the Pedersoli spring in their Pedersoli musket.

Home

If that is not possible, then IMO the next best thing is to alter the lock plate (if needed) for a main spring that will be "around and available for quite a while" (whether an original or repro main spring) in case the replacement is used so much it also breaks and the owner needs another replacement.

For a change, Dixie offers an original M1842 mainspring for an advertised price of only $ 30.00 and originals are already hardened and tempered. If one feels their strength is too much, one can file or carefully grind then file the chamfered edges more to reduce the spring tension. However and if you have to modify the lock plate for this mainspring, these springs will be around for quite a while.
https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/product/product_id/6239/category_id/451/product_name/TP0623++Mainspring+(Original)+For+U.S.+1842+Springfield+Musket

I don't have experience with the "casted" main springs FlinterNick mentioned. If they are already hardened and tempered and from a company that will be around a while, that may be a good choice as well.

IOW, what I'm proposing is lock plate alterations (if needed) for a main spring that would or may be readily available to be fitted/replaced in an urgent situation, such as at a reenactment or competition. As a NM modern Armorer, an Armorer who worked for many years at NSSA National Competition and as the Team Armourer for the US International Muzzleloading Team to two World Championships - I have seen the importance of this time and time again.

Gus

Thank you for posting about Mr. Ackerman. His new location is about 15 minutes from my office and I have an Ultra High Tower pistol that I need the lock tuned as the frizzen spring is much to strong and possibly the cock needs to be adjusted as well.

Chris Wood

 

[FlinterNick]

Thank you for posting about Mr. Ackerman. His new location is about 15 minutes from my office and I have an Ultra High Tower pistol that I need the lock tuned as the frizzen spring is much to strong and possibly the cock needs to be adjusted as well.

Chris Wood

Paul will get the lock working for you.

 

[FlinterNick]

Dave,

Have you tried Ackermann Arms to see if they have a direct replacement for the Miroku main spring? Personally, I would try that first before the time and expense of altering the lock plate and yes, even though a Pedersoli spring was provided to you. Someone else can always use the Pedersoli spring in their Pedersoli musket.

Home

If that is not possible, then IMO the next best thing is to alter the lock plate (if needed) for a main spring that will be "around and available for quite a while" (whether an original or repro main spring) in case the replacement is used so much it also breaks and the owner needs another replacement.

For a change, Dixie offers an original M1842 mainspring for an advertised price of only $ 30.00 and originals are already hardened and tempered. If one feels their strength is too much, one can file or carefully grind then file the chamfered edges more to reduce the spring tension. However and if you have to modify the lock plate for this mainspring, these springs will be around for quite a while.
https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/product/product_id/6239/category_id/451/product_name/TP0623++Mainspring+(Original)+For+U.S.+1842+Springfield+Musket

I don't have experience with the "casted" main springs FlinterNick mentioned. If they are already hardened and tempered and from a company that will be around a while, that may be a good choice as well.

IOW, what I'm proposing is lock plate alterations (if needed) for a main spring that would or may be readily available to be fitted/replaced in an urgent situation, such as at a reenactment or competition. As a NM modern Armorer, an Armorer who worked for many years at NSSA National Competition and as the Team Armourer for the US International Muzzleloading Team to two World Championships - I have seen the importance of this time and time again.

Gus

I only get my springs in cast form Because I can file them down and fit them to an existing lock plate, this is realativly easy its just time consuming.

For hardening and tempering, I’ve had some success but I’ve always failed, if you don’t have the right heat it just wont work.

Now, I’ve been experimeneting during this quarantine.

I purchased a handheld thermoetor that reads up to 1000 F And I purchased a graphite crucible with a lid. I used a Brown Bess frizzen spring casted. Heated it to bright red or cherry red, quenched in oil, then placed the spring in the crucible and filled it with crush lava rocks, I got the heat on my oven range up to 500, but the crucible was even hotter at around 790. When I took the spring out after about 30 min, it was dark blue all over. Presto.

Kit Ravensheer’s method of using an oil fire works well too, but its really hazardous working with flamed oil.

Most of the time I use the Rifle Shoppe to harden and temper my springs after I fit them, they do it perfectly, for $20 its worth it.

 

[oreclan]

I recently purchased a Miroku Brown Bess originally sold by Dixie Gun Works. It is, or was, a good sparker and seemed a great purchase. However, the mainspring broke and it appears that there are no replacement parts available? I did find a spring at Track of the Wolf that they said could be made to fit, which I have ordered. Any advice on this issue?

Also, there is no sling provision, neither the trigger guard nor the forearm sling swivel is present,not even drilled so a replacement could be fitted. Any suggestions for this issue?

I'd like to get this musket firing accurately as possible, with an eye to the occasional trail walk match. It shoots reasonably well out to 50 yds. Not as accurately as my 3-gun shotgun with slugs, probably because there is no rear sight? Thoughts on making it more accurate, while still being within the spirit of a smooth bore musket?

I wished I still had my Miroko Bess. Built it from a kit. I used the tang screw groove as my rear sight and sighted along the left side of the bayonet lug. Worked great.

 

[oreclan]

I added them to mine. I got them from one of the Rev War sutlers, but don't recall which one now.

View attachment 23898

TOTW sells sling swivels and their bolts. As mentioned prior solder a lug to the barrel forward of the 2nd rr thimble so that the sling swivel rests ON the thimble.