Making a patchbox catch

[tnlonghunter]

I need to make a catch for my patchbox, and I'm gonna do the simple kind like this one.

My first thought was to make the catch from some 1/8" mild steel stock and file it into the form above. My question is whether it should be tempered once it has been shaped.

 

[rchas]

I don't think you will be happy using mild steel - it doesn't temper. Get some spring steel, normalize it, file out your part, then temper.

 

[Metalshaper]

I think you'll find, as little as the catch needs to move?? even mild steel will have enough spring in it to work.
spring steel is great and is appropriate when you have it..

I sometimes run out

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Use spring steel as rchas wrote, then it needs to be hardened and subsequently tempered. I can see problems with your design. I like its simplicity but I do not like the square hole on the lid, which will show when the latch is engaged. Moreover, remember the lid will open in an arc and the square hole will not be square to the latch as it opens so it will need to be a little over sized. Finally, with your finger pushing the latch back to open the box, how will the lid open and clear the latch with your finger in the way?

dave

 

[rich pierce]

The challenge here will be making it thin and flexible enough to make it easy to unlatch. Try flexing a nail to see what I mean.

 

[1950DAVE]

Steel strapping as used on pallets, plenty of spring, can be cut with tin snips to width, heat with propane or charcoal fire, roll catch to appropriate shape at red heat, reheat , temper in oil.

 

[rich pierce]

It can and has worked. The trick will be getting the flex you need. English trade rifle here. Making the head stick up a ways will give you sure grip and some leverage

 

[Scota@4570]

I have made three that way. I used large allen wrenches as steel stock. I tempered them like springs. Some have suggested that concrete nails are good stock.

The stem needs to be thin. Make it as long as you can. Anchor it it in you vice and see if it flexes the way you want. Thin it until you are happy. I start with a drilled hole. The hole in the stock needs to allow for movement back and forth movement. I burn the clearance with a wedge shaped piece of metal of the same width as the latch spring arm. No need to get full red hot and catch anythign on fire. Straw heat color in the wedge is enough. An old screwdriver ground to shape works well. The bottom of the hole needs to be a tight fit. I file barbs to secure the latch arm. IF you have to use enough force to bend the latch when driving it in stop and regroup. Use a couple of putty knives to protect the wood when you pry the latch out. After you fuss around fitting the latch , the hole will probably become loose. A drop of CA glue will secure it when you are ready to finalize it.

IMHO I do not like this style of latch.

 

[1971fx]

Non traditional but effective catch using button snaps set the height of the inner snap with a bushing install with screw outer snap installs as designed

 

[1971fx]

Problem with the photo upload

 

[Vaino]

I've used many different lid "catches" on my builds but my first LR build didn't have a lid catch. It was closed and held closed w/ a thin, cantilevered spring. Worked fine. ...Fred

 

[tnlonghunter]

It's currently set up the way @Vaino shows,but in concerned there is not enough pressure to hold it closed with much of anything in the patchbox. Perhaps I just need to reposition the spring before trying anything further.

 

[Vaino]

Once the lid tab toggles over and closes the lid, the amount of spring force exerted on the lid tab is what keeps the lid tightly closed. I don't store "stuff" in the Pbox but judging from the force req'd to open the lid, a few heavier articles wouldn't open the lid if held upside down. The Bplate has a "nail recess" for opening the Pbox lid....Fred

 

[tnlonghunter]

Once the lid tab toggles over and closes the lid, the amount of spring force exerted on the lid tab is what keeps the lid tightly closed. I don't store "stuff" in the Pbox but judging from the force req'd to open the lid, a few heavier articles wouldn't open the lid if held upside down. The Bplate has a "nail recess" for opening the Pbox lid....Fred

That's essentially where I'm at. I typically like to keep a jag, extra flint, and some patches for a quick wipe in the patchbox just in case.

 

[Vaino]

Enough spring force can be achieved so the articles you mentioned won't open the lid if the rifle is held upside down......Fred

 

[Scota@4570]

There is often plenty of room under the decorative part of the box toward the muzzle to put any strength flat spring you want. The cam is on the lid. By arranging this you can get plenty of closure force.

I disfavor odd shaped springs that take up room in the storage space.

 

[Tumbledown]

I have used sections of hacksaw blades for these springs. I ground the teeth off, annealed, bent as needed, then tempered. They aren't heavy duty, so didn't have to be perfectly tempered to be functional. One is to pop the cover open, the other is the catch, bent like a square root symbol. They are a bit crude but effective.

 

[Vaino]

Here's a pic of a BC side opening Pbox that has nothing on its "floor" to interfere w/ storage space except the lid release push rod....although I never put anything in a Pbox....the opener spring is one of the ideas of Taylor Sapergia

 

[ZUG]

For the most creative idea shown here I vote for the "snap button" method although it is a "bit" nonconventional it does show inventiveness