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Lyman Great Plains Rifle

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Like Rebel says, a new GPR is less expensive.
If your talking about the Lyman Trade Rifle, they are about $100 less than the GPR but, IMO the GPR is better and worth the extra $100.
 
The first is the company uses some sort of grease in the bore that is very hard to remove. Until it is completely removed, the gun will not shoot well.

How do you get the grease outta there?

Thanks, sse
 
sse said:
The first is the company uses some sort of grease in the bore that is very hard to remove. Until it is completely removed, the gun will not shoot well.

How do you get the grease outta there?

Thanks, sse

Solvent and a brass brush.

HD
 
Any kind of bore cleaning solvent??? What would you recommend?

Thanks, sse
 
You might also try boiling water to flush it out often if you don't have solvent. :hmm:
 
sse said:
Any kind of bore cleaning solvent??? What would you recommend?

Thanks, sse

Any good solvent should work. I used Hoppes on mine.
Soak it good and brush it a bit. Soak it again and let it sit a few hours. Brush it some more...repeat the previous steps a couple times.

It's pretty nasty stuff and it usually takes a lot of patches to get it out after soaking it and brushing it.

HD
 
I got my first ML last summer and it happened to be a GPR as well, I was looking for an inline originally, then for grins I shouldered a GPR and that was all it took...Its a blast to shoot and talk about accurate....mine out of the box shot 2 inch groups at 50 yds, not too shabby considering I'd never even shot blackpowder before, so if you can get a deal on one go for it, you'll kick yourself if you don't....

:thumbsup:
 
sse said:
Any kind of bore cleaning solvent??? What would you recommend?

Thanks, sse

A liberal amount of WD-40, allowed to soak in for a couple of hours, will loosen it up quite nicely.
 
lucifer1.jpg


Here's my Lyman Great Plains that I built over 22 years ago. In the early 1980's, I decided I wanted to know more about the fur period and in the Belle Chase library, I came across a book entitled "The Plains Rifle", and those guns looked nothing like the "Hawken" that Redford toted across the silver screen. I found that the gun that Redford carried was based in design on the Leman trade guns of the period. I kept that book out for six months straight.

lucifer2.jpg


When I decided to put a kit together, I forewent the multitudes of Italian made kits, as well as, the Thompsons and opted for the Lyman Great Plains in .54 percussion. I sometimes regret that I didn't choose flint. But, whenever I start to feel that way, I have but to take a look at Lucifer and all regrets disappear.

lucifer3.jpg

I ordered my kit from an ad in the Shotgun News, and sent off a money order for the sum of $134.95, $125 for the kit and another $9.95 for shipping. When the box arrived, I wondered what I would find inside. Opening the box, I found the nicest piece of European Black Walnut and a 95% inletted kit. The wood alone was worth twice the price I paid for the kit all together.

Looking over the stock, it just didn't sit right. So I recontoured the comb and added a grease hole, which were more the rule. The stock received no staining other than what occurs with age. I applied four coats of hand rubbed Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. Each coat was allowed to throughly dry, gone over with 0000 steel wool and buffed out with a woolen rag.

The ramrod, was the only piece of wood that I stained. Which was dyed with Ox Blood leather dye and finished off with three coats Tru-Oil. Again, each coat was handrubbed and allowed to throughly dry, gone over with 0000 steel wool and buffed out with a woolen rag.


Deciding that I would brown the all steel furniture and the barrel, I left the nose cap in the white, a sort of faux pewter. Using Dixie's browning solution, I corked the muzzle and plugged the nipple seat. I let the humid Louisiana summer do the rest. Or should I say rust? After degreasing the exterior of the barrel and wearing rubber gloves, I would apply the browning solution in the morning before heading off to work and let the parts hang in my bathroom window. After a good coat of surface rust accumulated, I would card it down with a stiff degreased brass bristle brush. The browning took six weeks, before I was satisfied with the finish. Sort of looks like a parkerized flat brown finish. I stopped the rust with boiling water and follow that with water souble machine oil.

The whole affair went on for two months, before I decided I was done. I looked at my handicraft and thought to myself, "You're too pretty to shoot straight."

Taking some .535 round balls and greased pillow ticking I headed for the range. Setting a 30 inch section of 2"x4" out at 50 yards, I looked down the barrel, set the trigger and breathed. Foom, when the great cloud of smoke cleared, the section of 2"x4" was now two sections of 2"x2". Beautiful and shoots like the devil, what else could I name him but "Lucifer"?

cp.gif
 
sabinajiles said:
sse said:
Any kind of bore cleaning solvent??? What would you recommend?

Thanks, sse

A liberal amount of WD-40, allowed to soak in for a couple of hours, will loosen it up quite nicely.


WAAUUUGH! AFLACK! Hot water, Ammonia, Liquid dish soap and Murphy's Oil Soap are all the solvents you need. Be sure to have a proper size cleaning jag. Lubricate bore and exterior liberally with T/C Bore Butter or Natural Lube. I use Boar Snot to lube my patches. I'm a firm proponent of PRB's.

CP
 
Beautiful rifle Claypipe!!!

The time spent was well worth it eh?

If lyman offered your rifle in commercial production they could put a $1000 price tag on it.

Well, Ive been stuffin the muzzle now for only three or four weeks, and Im already working on a "friend" for my cabelas hawken to sit with in the gun case.

Im hooked!

Boone
 
Claypipe said:
sabinajiles said:
sse said:
Any kind of bore cleaning solvent??? What would you recommend?

Thanks, sse

A liberal amount of WD-40, allowed to soak in for a couple of hours, will loosen it up quite nicely.


WAAUUUGH! AFLACK! Hot water, Ammonia, Liquid dish soap and Murphy's Oil Soap are all the solvents you need. Be sure to have a proper size cleaning jag. Lubricate bore and exterior liberally with T/C Bore Butter or Natural Lube. I use Boar Snot to lube my patches. I'm a firm proponent of PRB's.

CP

And WD-40 by itself is all you need. Your problem with using WD-40 as a solvent to remove the grease in the bore is what??
 
I think Claypipe may have been thinking about general cleaning, versus the specific purpose I asked about. Personally, I see no need to use WD 40 in the ordinary course of cleaning and maintaining the B/P rifle.

Regards, sse
 
"...what is not PC about it?..."
_________________________________

I can only think of two things.

If you have the adjustable sights mounted on it instead of the fixed sights, that's one.

The lock is powered by a coil spring. That's two.

Beyond those things, I see nothing that isn't Period Correct.

Having said that, I'm sure there are going to be a whole bunch of posts about this does not look like a Hawken, and that doesn't look like a Hawken.
To those who are thinking along those lines I might mention that not all people in the 1830-1840s carried Hawkens. In fact, I don't believe most of the people in that era did.

My 2 cents worth. :)

Oh! I forgot. The old originals didn't have "MADE IN ITALY...BLACK POWDER ONLY..LYMAN...and GREAT PLAINS RIFLE" stamped on the barrel. :grin:
 
Zonie said:
If you have the adjustable sights mounted on it instead of the fixed sights, that's one.

The lock is powered by a coil spring. That's two.

And sights and lock both can be replaced if you have a hankering.
[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...bId=147&styleId=802&partNum=LOCK-LR-05-C[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
barebackjack said:
Beautiful rifle Claypipe!!!

The time spent was well worth it eh?

If lyman offered your rifle in commercial production they could put a $1000 price tag on it.

:redface: I thank you for the compliment. This was a kit gun that became more than the sum of its parts. You get what you pay for, and cash is just one form of currency. You can add in time, elbow grease and sweat, as well.

A good read is The Plains Rifle by Hanson.

CP
 
sabinajiles said:
Claypipe said:
sabinajiles said:
sse said:
Any kind of bore cleaning solvent??? What would you recommend?

Thanks, sse

A liberal amount of WD-40, allowed to soak in for a couple of hours, will loosen it up quite nicely.


WAAUUUGH! AFLACK! Hot water, Ammonia, Liquid dish soap and Murphy's Oil Soap are all the solvents you need. Be sure to have a proper size cleaning jag. Lubricate bore and exterior liberally with T/C Bore Butter or Natural Lube. I use Boar Snot to lube my patches. I'm a firm proponent of PRB's.

CP

And WD-40 by itself is all you need. Your problem with using WD-40 as a solvent to remove the grease in the bore is what??

I'm not real fond of using petroleum products on my blackpowder firearms. The have cause me grief in the past. Petroleum products can rot wood and leather. Only the coil spring gets one drop of mineral oil.

CP
 
Claypipe said:
I'm not real fond of using petroleum products on my blackpowder firearms. The have cause me grief in the past. Petroleum products can rot wood and leather. Only the coil spring gets one drop of mineral oil.
Well, this is a matter of opinion and is a discussion topic in itself, but the question was which cleaning solvent would remove the heavy grease that Investarm uses in the bores of their new barrels. I responded to that question with my answer that WD-40 would remove it fairly easily, which it does.
 

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