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lyman frizzen on Tc hawken

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westwest

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Hi, was at the gun shop today and surprised they had lyman frizzens on the shelf. I have read the lyman frizzens are quite a bit harder than T/C 's and could even be used on a T/C. So I bought one :grin: Does anyone know how to fit the frizzen on the TC lock? I was told I have to dremel a small bit out but what is that small bit? ? :idunno:

cheers

thanks
 
The hinge point is wider on the Lyman frizzen and must be filed/ground.Be VERY careful not to remove too much.Check for fit often.If I remember right,the frizzen hinge must be ground closest to the barrel.(The inside)
 
That's a 25-30 year old band-aid...hasn't been a need to do that for about 15 years since T/C redesigned / improved their locks with new hammers and frizzens
 
I have an older TC Hawken. I don't know what year it is, but I bought it used 3 years ago and had to refinish everything (a beautiful riffle emerged from the grime). What frizzen problem should I be anticipating?
 
The two major improvements to their lock assembly were a redesigned and taller hammer, and the case colored frizzens were replaced with harder ones that are all black color.

The hammer on the old style lock was too short and smashed the flint too square / straight into the frizzen face, resulting in poor sparks, short flint life, and a groove being cut into the frizzen face.
 
roundball's right- the old T/C frizzens didn't last long and were hard on flints.

if you contact T/C, i think you'll be able to send in the old style lock and they'll replace it with the newer style, which i'm given to understand works much better.

or

about thirty years ago i needed a new frizzen on a 'right away quick' basis, and the fellow at the gun shop told be that he could try to reharden my old one, but it probably wouldn't work, or he could sell me a Lyman frizzen for five bucks less and it would fit OK and work right then and there. no- brainer. been using that frizzen for nearly twenty five years.

Lyman must have slightly modified the frizzen design, 'cause mine dropped in. the advice about 'don't take too much off' is good- you don't want any unnecessary play in this joint.

make good smoke!
 
I have not had a failure to fire yet with the new TC lock; the old one was terrible. I clicked on one doe three times and it finally went off the fourth time. They are dependable now.
 
If you have the new lock it will work perfectly. I got 90+ shots on one Tom Fuller flint!
Speaking of flints, I just got my Rich Pierce flints. This is one good gentleman. If anyone needs flints this is the go-to guy.
 
Hmm I guess I wont worry about the TC frizzens since I have a new model Hawken. Still would like to try the lyman since I did buy one.

Cheers and thanks everyone for their input
 
Yes, thanks to all :thumbsup:

It appears I do have the old style lockwork, and the frizzen has a groove worn in it. The FTF rate is about 10-15%; very frustrating. I'll send it off to TC as soon as deer season ends in Pa.
 
This is a "new" style TC lock.

IMG_3846.jpg
 
If I were you and I had the part, I would have to try it. Just the way I am. There is no teacher like experience. Go for it!
EB
 
I had to stare at it for a few minutes, but I do see some differences between your lock and mine.
My hammer -- I almost said "cock" which I guess would have been technically correct -- seems to be shorter than yours :redface:. It also has a notch in the back of the "S" curve. The curved piece under the pan may be at a different angle as well.
So here's a picture. Tell me, oh disciples of the Spark and the Flash, is this the old or the new?

TCFlintlock.jpg
[/img]
 
I don't know whether it is old or new, but the flint appears to be in the jaws backwards.
 
That looks to be an older TC lock. And yes, the flint does appear to be in the jaws backwards.
 
Old style.

Voice of experience: Do NOT contact TC first.

Send it Priority Mail / Delivery Confirmation to the Attention: T/C Service Manager.

Include a note about your concerns over poor reliability and short flint life...asking him to do what he can to make it 100% reliable so you can count on it.

You should then get it back with new style parts installed, or as they often have done, get a complete new replacement lock assembly...no charge.

If you call first, there are a couple of old negative curmudgeons still working in the repair shop who act like they have to personally pay for every part that T/C uses for a customer and will talk you out of sending it...then you're stuck.

Strongly suggest that you just send it.
 

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