I'm thinking about redoing some metal parts on a project, maybe a whole rifle, and was hoping to see some good pictures of the finish these two items create. Most (okay, pretty much all) of the results I get running a search focus on the weapon as a whole, but don't really give you much focus on the finish itself. Any help would be appreciated.
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LMF Brown/BC Plum Brown Request
- Thread starter Cowboy2
- Start date
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I don't have any good close up pictures of either of these types of browning so I'll just run my mouth (fingers?) instead.
The Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is quick but a bit stinky. It is also a thin coating but it is more wear resistant than any of the "cold blueing" products produce.
Because of the way it works, it doesn't usually change the texture of the surface. Smooth will end up smooth. Rough will end up rough. Poorly prepared will still look like it was poorly prepared.
It usually takes several coats to get a uniform color.
Because it works from heat and it only likes the heat to be between 250-300 degrees F it is difficult to get a uniform color on large items like gun barrels.
On small parts it's pretty easy to get a consistent color.
LMF (and other similar products) is slow and it requires humidity to work.
Because it is actually rusting the surface so even if you start with a highly sanded surface it will end up being a bit rougher than it was before you started the process.
The guns I've used this on end up with a very flat, non-gloss surface.
Although the first coating may not be uniform, additional coats will even it out.
The brown rust is very hard and difficult to remove so it provides a very tough finish.
The LMF browning can be converted to a black colored rust (bluing) by boiling it in distilled water. I've read that the BC PB will do this too but I've never tried doing it so I really don't know.
When you want to finish the process, both types of browning need to be oiled.
It is the oil that actually protects the surface against future rusting.
The Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is quick but a bit stinky. It is also a thin coating but it is more wear resistant than any of the "cold blueing" products produce.
Because of the way it works, it doesn't usually change the texture of the surface. Smooth will end up smooth. Rough will end up rough. Poorly prepared will still look like it was poorly prepared.
It usually takes several coats to get a uniform color.
Because it works from heat and it only likes the heat to be between 250-300 degrees F it is difficult to get a uniform color on large items like gun barrels.
On small parts it's pretty easy to get a consistent color.
LMF (and other similar products) is slow and it requires humidity to work.
Because it is actually rusting the surface so even if you start with a highly sanded surface it will end up being a bit rougher than it was before you started the process.
The guns I've used this on end up with a very flat, non-gloss surface.
Although the first coating may not be uniform, additional coats will even it out.
The brown rust is very hard and difficult to remove so it provides a very tough finish.
The LMF browning can be converted to a black colored rust (bluing) by boiling it in distilled water. I've read that the BC PB will do this too but I've never tried doing it so I really don't know.
When you want to finish the process, both types of browning need to be oiled.
It is the oil that actually protects the surface against future rusting.
Years ago used BC Plum Brown on a bbl and found it to be too much work...trying to keep a constant temperature using a Mapp Gas torch was very difficult. Smaller parts worked a lot better if one likes this type of finish
Switched to LMF browning and it achieved excellent results w/ a lot less work.
After draw filing, a light rubbing w/ 220 grit paper, a wash w/ Dawn and a hot rinse and the part is ready for the LMF. Won't go into the details of browning because the procedure varies w/ the builder.
A light etch or matte is the desired finish and this can be achieved if the rusting isn't severe....timing is important along w/ proper carding....humidity is the most important factor.
Below are a couple of LRs browned w/ LMF and the "texture" of the finish is as described above....Fred
Switched to LMF browning and it achieved excellent results w/ a lot less work.
After draw filing, a light rubbing w/ 220 grit paper, a wash w/ Dawn and a hot rinse and the part is ready for the LMF. Won't go into the details of browning because the procedure varies w/ the builder.
A light etch or matte is the desired finish and this can be achieved if the rusting isn't severe....timing is important along w/ proper carding....humidity is the most important factor.
Below are a couple of LRs browned w/ LMF and the "texture" of the finish is as described above....Fred
Thanks guys. I've been able to find a few more pics. I'm kind of torn between an antique gray (French gray?)or brown finish on a project I'm thinking about doing this summer. I think I'm just going to have to wait and see how red the stock is. I hadn't been much on the gray finish before, but I saw a hawken done up that way with a beautiful red stock, and, it got my attention.
