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Y'all do know that a load can be pulled to unload a ML and avoid unwanted "cleaning", right?

A good bullet puller and a proper range rod easily pulls a roundball. That's what I do when deer season is over and I want/need to unload. They also sell CO2 discharge kits that blow the charge out with air pressure that I understand work pretty well.
Yeah....but I've never pulled a ball before unless I had forgotten to load a powder charge down the bore first. Hence most ramrod fittings are BRASS or ALUMINUM (no spark) for pulling lead projectiles from an already "propellant" loaded but unprimed/decapped gun safely and effectively!!! Makes sense to me....😐👍🆗
 
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Yeah....but I've never pulled a ball before unless I had forgotten to load a powder charge down the bore first. Hence most ramrod fittings are BRASS or ALUMINUM (no spark) for pulling lead projectiles from an already "propellant" loaded but unprimed/decapped gun safely and effectively!!! Makes sense to me....😐👍🆗
So you're skeerd to pull a loaded charge then. Ok.

My range rod is 48" long and solid brass.
 
So you're skeerd to pull a loaded charge then. Ok.

My range rod is 48" long and solid brass.
Just lil' hesitant cause I've never done it before and never seen anyone do it either...I really should invest a decent 48" brass range rod rather than pulling a patched ball out with a wood ramrod anyway!
 
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The same BIG QUESTION that I've also been wanting to ask others for years....but never did!!! Is it "DAMAGING" or simply "HARMLESS" to leave ANY muzzleloader firearm loaded for a while(days) to avoid having to discharge/fire, clean and reload it again later, just for another hunt or practice at the range?!?! Hmmm! 🤔🙄
The answers you are searching for have been given.

Unless the ML has been subjected to very wet conditions and/or high humidity there is no need to empty it and clean it after a few days of hunting.

However, there are some particulars that need to be ascertained.

See post #13. This is a very good example of what could happen when subjected to moisture, such as in a ground blind with a heater, even if its relatively dry and not humid outside.

For many years whenever I hunt in cold and fairly dry conditions, I leave my rifles outside whenever I go in a warm, heated place. Even if it means leaving it outside all night.
 
Y'all do know that a load can be pulled to unload a ML and avoid unwanted "cleaning", right?

A good bullet puller and a proper range rod easily pulls a roundball. That's what I do when deer season is over and I want/need to unload. They also sell CO2 discharge kits that blow the charge out with air pressure that I understand work pretty well.
Do you pull the ball from over the powder charge, or do you soak the load first? Seems like soaking would warrant a cleaning.

I've heard of fellows using a compressor instead of the CO2 kits, but I've not seen the right fittings.
 
Do you pull the ball from over the powder charge, or do you soak the load first? Seems like soaking would warrant a cleaning.

I've heard of fellows using a compressor instead of the CO2 kits, but I've not seen the right fittings
I have seen a guy use the Co2 thing with a .54 caliber GPR and a RB. I was very impressed by how efficient it worked. So much so that I plan on getting a kit for myself. At least one could save on a cap and RB, as well as save on a scrubbing.

I have my doubts as to how well it would work with a tighter fitting conical, however.
 
If the indian raining party busts through the door I'm betting pretty heavy odds running for the flintlock hanging over the fireplace won't be my first reaction.
I have been accused of raining on some poor persons parade, but never been with a raining party!:ghostly:
some of the old people rain danced though. My onlyest Mother was a sight when she wanted rain!
 
Do you pull the ball from over the powder charge, or do you soak the load first? Seems like soaking would warrant a cleaning.

No I don't soak a charge.

Easiest way to pull a ball is screw the puller into the ball, then with something that will hold the handle end of the range rod with the whole thing hanging vertical butt end down, gently pull the rifle down. The ball will slide right out of the bore. I have a slotted bracket secured in my shop to do this. No more force is required to pull one than is required to load one.
If no bracket to hang the rifle vertically the range rod handle can be captured in the jaws of a vise and the rifle pulled horizontally.
Should something astronomically unlikely to happen and the charge happen to ignite you're not infront of the muzzle in either case.
 
Yeah....but I've never pulled a ball before unless I had forgotten to load a powder charge down the bore first. Hence most ramrod fittings are BRASS or ALUMINUM (no spark) for pulling lead projectiles from an already "propellant" loaded but unprimed/decapped gun safely and effectively!!! Makes sense to me....😐👍🆗
Iron or steel fittings on a ramrod will not cause sparks rubbing on the steel of the barrel, nor will a steel ramrod cause sparks.

Let's dispel this myth.
 
How long is it practical to leave a unfired rifle loaded with black powder without causing damage? If your hunting and didn't have any luck and are going out the next day or even next couple of days its a pain to have to unload your rifle and clean when you haven't shot. How corrosive is unburnt black powder?
If I don't pull the trigger it stays loaded till (ALL) my seasons end ! I do cover the muzzle end with electrical tape and with the use of a Mag Spark 209 adapter it is now water proof , just leave it outside in cold weather/Ed
 
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Y'all do know that a load can be pulled to unload a ML and avoid unwanted "cleaning", right?

A good bullet puller and a proper range rod easily pulls a roundball. That's what I do when deer season is over and I want/need to unload. They also sell CO2 discharge kits that blow the charge out with air pressure that I understand work pretty well.
After my fiasco requiring pulling the ball with my rifle ramrod, I spent the bucks and got a 45" long brass range rod with a T handle. That way I can also use it on my Fusil Fin C smoothbore.
 
I accidentally left my deer hunter Flintlock loaded for a year in my camp. It fired okay first try. But the breach area was pitted up pretty good. Still shoots good though
 
Way back in the 70s, I cleaned a '51 Navy copy. I dried the parts in an oven and then oiled all of the parts except the cylinder and nipples. Then I installed the nipples with a small drop of oil on the nipple threads. Then I loaded the chambers with powder and balls. Then I sealed the chamber mouths with molten candle wax and also covered the nipples and caps with candle wax. I didn't fire the gun for two years, but when I did fire the weapon all six shots worked fine. However, when I cleaned the gun, I found the chambers had some slight etching. The nipples backed out with no trouble, and the barrel and the rest were smooth and clear.
To this day I still wonder why the chambers were etched. The damage was not severe, but I have not stored a BP loaded for longer than a day or two since then.
My two cents on this matter!
Some time ago, on this forum, was laughed at for telling that a true 'old timer'(someone that grew up in C&B days) had told me that dripping wax over the nipples and capping over the wax would keep the powder fresh until needed. Now, NOW, another has said the same thing. YEA! For me and old timers. One 'expert' not on this forum, even told me that leaving the chambers loaded would corrode them. BP doesn't turn corrosive until it's been fired. I told him, and again was laughed at. HA! Who gets the last laugh? Great forum, great information, except for the occasional Nimrod. And, Butch Martin, carried, for many years, an
'original' '51 Navy, until the pawl (hand) broke and modern parts would fit. Gave it a Chief of Police, where I lived at the time for his collection of wall hangers.
 
There have been numerous cases of people firing old antique loaded muzzleloaders. Many of these had been loaded for decades to more than a hundred years too. They still fired their load.

Normally black powder is a inert substance. It can still be good hundreds of years later. Oil and moisture can degrade it though.
 
I have seen a guy use the Co2 thing with a .54 caliber GPR and a RB. I was very impressed by how efficient it worked.

I have my doubts as to how well it would work with a tighter fitting conical, however.
I have used one for a couple decades. Of course, NEVER have I dry balled!!! :rolleyes: ;) 🤣

PRB or Conical...no difference. They come flying out. Even blew out one guys gun where he got distracted and double loaded.

Not period correct, but a CO2 discharger is always in my kit.
 
One year I hunted with my .54 GPR percussion for five days in a box blind, heated by an ice fishing LP heater. It was very comfortable with windows open with a sweater on, even though very cold and snowy outside. I closed up the blind at night with the heater off, leaving the loaded rifle in the blind. On the fifth day, after seeing no shooters, I tried to unload by shooting. No bang! After pulling the ball I found muddy powder. Condensation from heating and cooling did me in. Good thing that 10 pointer never showed up.
Really good information to avoid the same mistake of internal breech/barrel condensation caused by hot n cold temperature extremes while hunting! And a real eye-opener for AVOIDING using a cozy heater in your stand while muzzleloader hunting! THIS simple hunting experience you shared here speaks volumes!!! "MUDDY POWDER" vs " KEEP YER POWDER DRY"!!! Ugh...
 
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