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Leather

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bob835plant

32 Cal
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
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Looking for a source of leather for my Flintlock for the Flint.
I'm brand new to Flintlock muzzleloader rifles.
Never had one or owned one before.

Thank you.

SEMPER FIDELIS
 
leather works great, but I am a lead man. I have a couple of old shower pans I use. I just cut a piece off, they are already the right thickness. or you can beat a ball flat and use that,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
As stated above, don't rule out lead,
Some guns work better with lead, I have 2 flinters that I use lead. They hit rather soft and the lead seems to improve the sparking.
My new Pedersoli Frontier came from the factory with a precut lead jaw liner strip.
I just take a roundball, drop it on the concrete floor in the garage and flatten to appropriate thickness with a hammer, then trim with a pair of snips. Takes only a minute or two to make 2 strips from one roundball...
 
I’m not a huge fan of lead to hold my flint, when I first started this hobby I was advised to use lead, so I tried it. The results were not great, so now I use leather, I normally use deer hide if I can find it, but any old leather will do.In all the time I’ve shot flintlocks, I’ve only worn out a few leather pieces... I have however lost a few while changing my flint. I keep an extra in my shooting bag.
 
bob835plant:

I've tried both lead and leather. IMO, the leather works better. It conforms to the irregular shapes that flints often have on their upper and lower surfaces so it ends up with a better grip on them.

The best leather I've found is usually about 3/32" thick and fairly soft and flexible.

The only problem I've had is, sometimes the leather is so thick, it won't allow the flint to be shoved deeply into the jaws on the cock so the flint ends up hitting the frizzen when the cock is set at the "half cock" position.
To help eliminate this problem, after cutting the leather's width and length, I fold it so the long ends meet, just like it would be if it was holding the flint.
Then, using some scissors, I make a cut in the center of the fold to remove any leather that will try to hit the cock screw when it is placed between the jaws. Unfolded, it looks like a strip of leather with a hole in the middle of it.
The hole must be large enough to allow the bend of the leather to fit down on both sides of the screw.

Once done, I again fold the leather, place the flint into it and insert it into the jaws on the cock as far as it will go.
That usually lets the sharp edge of the flint clear the face of the frizzen when the frizzen is closed.

As for the direction of the bevel on the flint, some like placing it "bevel up" and some like placing it with the "bevel down". Which one works best can only be decided by trying the lock with the flint installed each way. Usually, one way will give better sparks than the other way but it all depends on what your lock likes.
 
Just my 2 cents --- I've gotten leather hides, pieces, elk and deer antler tips and some very nice coyote furs from
Moscow Hide and Fur. In Idaho. Worth a look if your into making stuff. Full infor on the web.
 
Go to a thrift shop and buy a cheap leather coat for $5 and cut out your leather from it. You will also have a bunch left over for ball bags etc.
 
I tried lead in some locks way back and was not satisfied with it. It didn't help sparking, the flints kept loosening and I just didn't like it. Leather, OTOH, never failed to work.
 

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