Here's the pattern I intend to work with it's the narrow fall style.
Andy:
I have no experience with this pattern or patterns from this company. I have patterns for knee britches from Pegee of Williamsburg, Past Patterns, and Eagle View.
While this warning does not apply to you the one from Peggy Abbott (Pegee) is probably the most difficult to use and definitely not for the Novice or Occasional Sewer. It does have a number of variations, historical notes, and is probably the most historically correct. The second is in the middle and there is some assumption of previous skill in the directions. The third for Eagle View, which is incorrectly labeled "Broad Fall Trousers", is the easiest to make and has the most complete directions. Not sure any of them are still available under these names.
Here are some photo's of leather knee britches from roughly the time of the American War for Independence:
This particular pair is the simplest of the bunch and are from the Museum at Valley Forge.
Documentation is on photo, This has a "watch" pocket and a gusset in the back not found on the valley forge pair.
This is simply labeled 18th Century pants in a private collection. They were obviously done by a tailor or someone who could consistently sew the thirty stitches to the inch. The white object on the inside is not lining but foam placed their to hold the shape for photography.
The straps at the bottom of all the examples were for buckles. They were like smaller version of shoe buckles for the same reason. The buckles weren't cheap and one pair would be used on multiple pairs of pants.
The same basic style of knee pants could be found in use in the Mexican Southwest and California as late as the 1850's. These were called
Calzones, and were worn, oddly enough, with long white under drawers if possible, other colours if not. White held prestige. Also with
botas de ala, garters and
zapatones.
Why do I have three narrow fall pant patterns you ask? Well even if you didn't, I am always looking for something a little bit better with Historical correctness, (although I don't think I will ever hit 30 stitches to the inch) and I am, of course,
Mad Michael
references:
Clothing - Male - Breeches & Overalls | PDF | British Museum | Museum
THE SUTTER'S FORT COSTUME MANUAL A Guide to the Clothing Worn in California and the Far West, Circa 1845
Textt and Illustations by David W. Rickman. Published by the Sutter's Fort Interpretive Association, Sacramento, CA. January 1, 1994