Laurel Mountain Forge rust browning with humidity box?

[wiscoaster]

Neither the instructions nor several videos I've watched say anything about using a humidity box when rust browning a barrel with Laurel Mountain Forge rust browning solution, so I understand it's not necessary. However - I'm wondering if any of you have used a humidity box with this product and whether that shortened the three hours interval between applications that the instructions call for?

 

[DCAN]

I did not use a box. Just let it hang in the shop and checked on it from time to time. The overnight waits produced the best results. The reason I didn't use any type of box is I live in a damp environment and on a big surf day you can hear the ocean in my shop. No shortage of salt and moisture in the air. The outcome was better than expected and I will duplicate the procedure on the SMR which is sitting in it's box in my living room.

 

[JHB]

I have done 2 hung them from the shower curtain rod. Run the shower full hot for a few minutes close the door and check on every few hours.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Always use a sweatbox. More consistent results, and no, it doesn’t decrease the amount of time between applications, but you will have less time overall.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

It depends on your temperature and humidity. If it's warm and humid you won't need a box. I have used this box built from scrap with some old carpet or towels that are kept damp. In the winter I set it near the wood stove in the shop. There are numerous holes drilled through the sides to hang the various parts. Of course a lid goes on the top.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

.

 

[akroguy]

Got poor results in a pvc tube with wet rags in it.

Torch, Plum Brown and DONE.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

Depends on the humidity where your at. The only time I have used a box is during the winter when humidity is very low.

 

[IanH]

Got poor results in a pvc tube with wet rags in it.

Torch, Plum Brown and DONE.

Heat gun, Mark Lee Express Brown, DONE. I only use LMF to make crust and pits.

 

[Ghost23]

I hang mine in the bathroom with the hot shower running for a few minutes. Then let it hang in there for a few hours.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Got poor results in a pvc tube with wet rags in it.

Torch, Plum Brown and DONE.

I agree with the above. I too got poor results using LMF. I applied it per the letter of the instructions. It still came out looking like c.r.a.p. I never used it again.

 

[wiscoaster]

Heat gun, Mark Lee Express Brown, DONE. I only use LMF to make crust and pits.

Heat gun is enough heat for that product? I have a heat gun; no torch (and don't want one for just one project). Heat gun won't get the barrel hot enough for B-C Plum Brown. Might check out what you suggest.

 

[HSmithTX]

I’m not understanding how the process with LMF can go bad unless it was left way too long to rust or if it wasn’t rusted and carded enough? The stuff is great and I’ve had no issues with it browning or rust blueing.

I make exactly two deviations from the instructions if rust blueing and exactly one deviation if browning. If blueing I will apply one coat only and when it rusts I will boil and card, I do not apply a second coat and I do not wait 3 hours, I wait for the rust to tell me when it’s ready and not the clock. The second coat, for me in a moderate to high humidity area, will pit the metal it is applied before boiling and carding, and if 6 hours from first application to first carding it will pit bad enough to warrant draw filing and sanding back bright. Bear in mind I only have done ‘as new’ finishes. For browning I apply one coat and one coat only, then card when ready. Two or three passes will make a great brown, neutralize and oil it’s done. For blueing I’ve gone as far as 10 coats to get a dark but smooth finish.

I have used a sweat box and it definitely speeds up the process, just make sure it isn’t humid enough to wet or condensate on the part or it will pit. It doesn’t take a lot of humidity to work. I’d guess that 40 or 50% is perfect if you want to do one coat per day, 70-80% brings that time down to a couple hours between carding and the next application.

 

[IanH]

Heat gun is enough heat for that product? I have a heat gun; no torch (and don't want one for just one project). Heat gun won't get the barrel hot enough for B-C Plum Brown. Might check out what you suggest.

The more expensive of the two harbor freight heat guns puts out enough heat to solder, it just takes time to heat metal with air. Something that helps is a 6" PVC pipe with a cap on one end, barrel suspended inside, with some strategic "leaks" drilled so air can move through the tube slowly, set the heat gun under it. An IR thermometer (also cheap from the jungle site or HF) is invaluable to rusting processes, I like about 190⁰f for Mark Lee. If you have a gas range you can turn on the two front burners and use that, or the side burner of a gas grill, turkey fryer burner, etc.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I completely agree with HSmith with two additions. Don't rub the metal with the LMF. It will leave a copper coating that is harder to rust and use a good degreaser first.
Well, three additions. Don't put too much solution on, just a lightly damped cloth will do it.

 

[HSmithTX]

Good points by TCK, I do the same ^^^^ as he does with light coats and try not to rub over previously covered areas. If you do see the copper color don’t worry, 1-2 more applications done well will put you back on track and you’ll never see any deficiency in the finish.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I've been using a rust box for 40 years. But, I'm looking for severely rusted pitted results instead of a standard brown. I use a slow cooker in the bottom with water in it to add loads of humidity. I can add about 75 years of age per day.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I have become acquainted with with a fellow who is well regarded as a restorer of antique guns. He gets the same aging effect using bleach. I've seen some of the parts he's made to replace those missing and they look like an original part.

 

[SDSmlf]

Depends what you are looking for and where you live I guess. I have used LMF with good success on over a couple dozen barrels, for both browning and bluing. Didn’t care for the look with some of the other products that require heat to work. Never considered using a ‘sweat box’, just take what the weather offers and adjust time based what’s happening on the metal surface. No hurry here. Not sure what the advantages are of a sweat box, but here in Western North Carolina it is 78° right now at 10:20pm with plenty of humidity. Below is a screen shot of what the Weather Channel says, if they can be believed by the conspiracy crowd. Take anything from an indoor air conditioned environment to the outdoors this time of year and it gets clammy in seconds. The only thing I do that I don’t believe is mentioned in LMF instructions is to coat the bore with lacquer to protect it from ‘rusting’ during the process. It easily cleans up with lacquer thinner when I’m done with the ‘rusting/bluing’ process.

 

[Reno]

I don’t use a box. I degrease a little and just start applying the solution. I don’t pay attention to three hours. If it can take another application it gets it. I will steel wool it off depending on where the barrel is at in the process. I don’t worry about any oils in the steel wool either. I just keep going. This is not rocket science. I live in Indiana and having enough humidity is never a problem.