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Installing l&r lock in a gpr

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Steve A.

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Hi everyone. I just got my new l&r replacement flintlock. I didn't realize how much wood i'd have to remove to get it to fit. I've never done any kind of woodwork like this. Can anyone gives me any tips or advice to make this go smoothely? i'd hate to ruin a good stock.
 
I put a RPL L&R in a Thompson Hawken. All I used was a palm chisel and patience. Just take your time and keep dryfitting when you get close. When the lock fits remove a smidge more for wood expansion. It's really a pretty simple procedure, nuthin like rocket surgery.
 
And while your removing wood to clear the mainspring, if you have an area where the clearance cut breaks thru into the barrel channel, you have NOT ruined your gun.

This can happen on some of the best built rifles and it doesn't create any problems.

I'm not suggesting that you just start chopping out wood in this area. You should do as KidMaverick suggested and use a very sharp chisel and go slowly.

Use lipstick or candle soot on the springs edge and remove wood until no soot or lipstick transfers to the wood when the lock is seated.
 
The one thing I will mention concerning the L&R RPL lock plate is make sure that lock plate is tight to the barrel at the pan. On the one I did last year for a friend needed to have the lock plate set deeper. At the depth Lyman had the lock plate inlet had the L&R standing off the barrel about 1/16 inch.
 
If you have a drill press available, or can barrow the use of one, I use Forstner bits and the depth control lock and get most of the required wood removed. Plus the Forstner bit leaves a clean looking cut.
It is imperative you get the lock against the barrel.
 

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