Initial breach plug removal on a new rifle

[Greenjoytj]

I will be receiving a new Lyman GPR flintlock 54 cal. soon.
I would like know if it would be good idea to remove the breach plug during the rifles initial cleaning in order to apply some Permatex anti-seize compound to all the threads.
I'm thinking that doing this before the rifle gets shot, I hope it would make removal of the breach plug in the future possible.
Any thoughts on the procedure to use?

 

[Rifleman1776]

I will be receiving a new Lyman GPR flintlock 54 cal. soon.
I would like know if it would be good idea to remove the breach plug during the rifles initial cleaning in order to apply some Permatex anti-seize compound to all the threads.
I'm thinking that doing this before the rifle gets shot, I hope it would make removal of the breach plug in the future possible.
Any thoughts on the procedure to use?

Unless you have problems already, there is no reason to de-breech your rifle. Normal cleaning is all that is required for maintenance.
If you are determined, a large vice is required. Secure the barrel as close to the breech as possible then use a big wrench on the breech plug. Failure to secure the barrel very close to the breech can result in twisting the barrel, ruining it. But, as I said, you really do not need to mess with it. Clean, load, shoot, enjoy.

 

[David W.]

There should be no reason to EVER remove the breech plug! My advise is don't do it! You will mark the finish and will not be able to align the flats again when you re-install it.

 

[Stumpkiller]

NEVER EVER remove a breechplug unless there is a pressing mechanical fault. I buggered up a Renegade (even using the factory barrel jig/vice adapter).

Since 1976 that is the only time I ever removed a breechplug. That occurred in about 1979. Also the last time I used a bore brush in a m/l because that's what I went in after - a seperated brush head.

I've never removed a vent liner, either. Most of mine have had no liner or it is filed flush to the barrel with no slot or socket.

 

[necchi]

The boys are right.
Those factory barrels have the breech put on with power tools at a specific phase of manufacure, and have a significant amount of torque.

Custom barrels are a different story as their done by hand.
The olde adage;
"If it ain't broke don't fix it" apply's here, :wink:

 

[Stumpkiller]

And it may only be after honking that breech-plug out with a four-foot wrench cheater-pipe that you discover the vent insert went into the threads of the plug and you have some new purchases to make.

 

[roundball]

No need to do that...I've probably bought, sold, traded, shot, hunted 25-30 different T/C, GM, and Rice barrels over the past 20 years...13,000-14,000 shots now and never even had a THOUGHT about wanting to remove a breechplug on a sidelock...requires special tools and a bit of knowhow.

(They are not at all like removable breechplugs used on the modern high tech zip-guns that happen to load from the muzzle)

 

[Bill Hall]

On the last rifle I built, I actually soldered the breechplug on. I did this to give it a decorative silver line around the barrel in front of the plug, not as a structual need. Point being, I built this rifle with the idea that the breechplug will never be removed. Most major ploblems can be solved without removing the plug, and if this rifle ever needs the plug out, at least I know I'm the guy who will be doing it, cuz anyone else will break a wrench trying to get it out. :blah:

Always best to leave the breechplug un-screwed with. Bill

 

[ohio ramrod]

At first thought it sounds good. But removing the breech plug should be considered a last resort when repairing a gun.NEVER a preventive maintenance thing to do. In fact removing the breech plug voids the warranity on many guns! :surrender: :surrender:

 

[paulvallandigham]

WADR, if a gun is a piece of road dirt, and you need to remove the breechplug to fix it, either send it back to the factory to fix, or get your money back. Spend your money on a better gun.

If you choose to fix it, don't hesitate to remove the breechplug. Just remember that on many of these guns, you first have to remove a drum( percussion) or a TH liner( flint), because these are screwed into the threads of the breechplug, and act as a LOCK.

That factory warranty is only worth the paper its printed on until the factory actually agrees to fix the gun without charge to you. Good luck getting some of those foreign manufacturers to do that. The shipping costs will eat a hole in your wallet, too. Considering the low price on some of these guns, You won't be able to afford to hire an attorney to enforce the warranty agreement for the money that is involved. :hmm: :hatsoff:

 

[Dphar]

I will be receiving a new Lyman GPR flintlock 54 cal. soon.
I would like know if it would be good idea to remove the breach plug during the rifles initial cleaning in order to apply some Permatex anti-seize compound to all the threads.
I'm thinking that doing this before the rifle gets shot, I hope it would make removal of the breach plug in the future possible.
Any thoughts on the procedure to use?

Do you have the proper tools and exerience?
If not leave it alone. Besides you might break something even with the right tools if the breech was over torqued at assembly.

Dan